CHURCH and 
















A. NEELY 




















































































































Class 1 1 HqO 

Bonk ■ \~\ n 

Gopyrighl In 0 _ 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 




















. 
















♦ 

















CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL 
HANDICRAFT FOR BOYS 


A. NEELY HALL 


































Fig. 301. A BULLETIN BOARD OF DIGNIFIED DESIGN FOR THE CHURCH 

LAWN. (See Chapter XVII.) 


[Frontispiece 








CHURCH AND SUNDAY 
SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 
FOR BOYS 

Skill through Service 

BY 

A. NEELY HALL 

ft 

Author of “Home Handicraft for Boys,” “The Boy Crafts¬ 
man” “Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys ” “Home¬ 
made Games and Game Equipment,” “Handicraft for 
Handy Boys,” “Handicraft for Handy Girls,” 

“The Handy Boy,” “Carpentry and Me¬ 
chanics for Boys,” etc . 


WITH NEARLY FOUR HUNDRED 
PHOTOGRAPHS AND WORKING DRAWINGS 
BY THE AUTHOR 


NEW 


YORK 


GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY 



Copyright , 1923, 

By George H. Doran Company 




Church and Sunday School Handicraft for Boys. 


Printed in the United States of America 

NOV 30 ’23 



MOTHER 

WHO GAVE ME MY FIRST LESSON 
IN HANDICRAFT AND ASSISTED 
IN MANY BOYHOOD ACTIVITIES 















TO PARENTS AND CHURCH LEADERS 


There is not a thing in this book which your hoys 
cannot make and not a piece of equipment which 
your church or Sunday school cannot use. The 
content, therefore, will serve two purposes—teach¬ 
ing the boys skill and training them in practical 
ways of serving the church. 

No better place than the home can be found to 
make things, and the lad is fortunate who has the 
happy combination of a home work-shop and a 
father willing to work alongside him. The average 
boy who has had instruction in the handling of 
tools at school, or has become skillful through in¬ 
struction in handicraft hooks, can generally be 
relied upon to turn out creditable work. Adult 
supervision is advised for untrained boys. A 
woodworker may he found willing to organize a 
boys’ class in craftsmanship to meet in a work¬ 
shop in the church basement or in a home. 

Another plan is to take up this matter of making 
equipment with the hoys’ manual-training teacher. 
An instructor is always on the lookout for new 
class problems, and under his guidance groups of 
boys can build the larger pieces of equipment. It 
may be necessary to assume the costs of material, 
but that can be arranged easily. 

It is never a problem to obtain volunteer workers 
among boys. In fact, boys’ services are not used 

vii 


viii TO PARENTS AND CHURCH LEADERS 


in the community as much as they might be. Lead¬ 
ers too often underestimate the ability of boys. 
Give them a trial. Let them not only make equip¬ 
ment, but do odd jobs about the church building. 
You will find them your most reliable workers. 

A Boy Scout’s motto is 4 ‘Do a Good Turn Daily.” 
He accepts no payment for good turns, which, of 
course, is the proper spirit. But this matter of 
building church and Sunday school equipment 
should be looked upon as something more than a 
good turn. Let there be a special evening’-s pro¬ 
gram to include the presentation of work, and let 
there be a metal plate with the boy craftman’s 
name thereon to tack to each article. A Boy 
Scout’s year is incomplete without two weeks in 
camp, and I assume that most o± the boys who 
volunteer to make church and Sunday school equip¬ 
ment will be Boy Scouts because they are of the 
type of boys eager to serve. The church budget 
permitting, no better expression of appreciation of 
the boys’ services could be found than an appro¬ 
priation for the summer camp. 


TO BOYS 


The next time there are to be doings at the 
church, and you hear that father and other men are 
to meet to do carpentry, suppose that you drop in 
on them, watch the proceedings and figure out if 
there is any part of the work which you and other 
members of your class could not do as well. Pos¬ 
sibly there is no better workman in the community 
than your father; but you will discover men who 
cannot drive home a nail, much less saw a board 
straight, men who didn’t learn to work with tools 
as you have learned. Having made observations 
you will go home with greater confidence in your 
ability to do things. 

Church and Sunday school carpentry has con¬ 
sisted for the most part of building bazaar booths, 
scenery and properties for plays, a Santa Claus 
fireplace for the Christmas entertainment, and 
other temporary construction work, and repairs. 
But there is much working equipment that can 
also be homemade. This volume is full of sugges¬ 
tions, all tried and found good. At a glance you 
will see many things which you know would be 
helpful in your Sunday school. You and the boys 
of your class and other classes can easily build 
anything shown in the book. Be advised as to the 
particular needs of your church and Sunday school 
as to dimensions, kind of wood, and finish desired. 

ix 




X 


TO BOYS 


Materials, especially for the larger pieces of equip¬ 
ment, will probably be provided for you. 

This work will necessitate missing a ball game 
now and then, passing up a good moving-picture 
show, or radio program, and it will delay the mak¬ 
ing of something that you want for yourself, but 
such sacrifice results in character building, and 
now is the time to build. You will feel rewarded 
in the thought that you are doing something of real 
worth for your church and establishing yourself 
as one of its essential members. Bear in mind, 
also, that whenever you make something well, you 
become more skillful, and you will get the signifi¬ 
cance of the subtitle of this volume—skill through 
service. 


Elmhurst, Illinois . 


A. N. H. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER PAGE 

I THE CHURCH WORKSHOP .... 11 

A Solid Workbench—A Vise—A Bench- 
Stop—A Box Bench—A Tool Board— 

An Odd-Job Nail-Box 


II TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE DAILY VACA¬ 
TION BIBLE SCHOOL .... 23 

Cork Toys: A Horse—A Porcupine—A Pig 
—A Pigrich Bird—A Duck—A Teeter 
—A Bed—A Chair—A Table—Pots for 
Toy Plants—A J avelin—Pendulum 

Toys: The Seasick Landlubber—The 
Ouija Bird—Tumble Toys: Tumble 
Tom’s Trick Ladder—Topsy Turvy 
Blocks 


III HANDICRAFT FOR THE CHURCH BA¬ 

ZAAR .46 

A Whisk-Broom Holder—Candle-Sticks— 

A Thermometer Board—A Calendar- 
Board and Pen-Rack—A Post-Card 
Rack—A Clock-Shelf—A Broom-Holder 
—A Holder for Safety Matches 

IV THE SAND TABLE.59 

The Sand Box—The Sand-Box Supports 
—Painting the Sand Table—Materials 
for Model Making—Care of Properties 
xi 



CONTENTS 


xii 

CHAPTER 

V A NOAH’S ARK 

Building the Ark—Cutting and Mounting 
the Birds and Animals 

VI MAKING A MODEL OF YOUR CHURCH 

BUILDING. 

A Model of the New Building—The Model 
as a Bank for the Building Fund—A 
Model of the Old Building—A Card¬ 
board Model—A Wooden Model—A 
Clay or Plaster Model 

VII FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS . 

A Plant Box—A Hanging Plant Box—A 
Pedestal Box—A Trellis—A Red-Cross 
Wren House—Another Wren House—A 
Bluebird House—A Woodpecker House 
—A Concrete Bird Bath—A Pedestal 
Bird Bath 

VIII BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND 

CASES . 

A Book-Trough—Book-Ends—A Wall-Rack 
—A Rack for Dodgers, Programs, or 
Mail—A Magazine-Rack—A Thomas 
Bailey Aldrich Bookrack—Another Form 
of Bookrack—A Bookcase with a Cur¬ 
tained Front 

IX FILING-CASES AND CABINETS 

A Letter-Size Filing-Cabinet—A Filing- 
Case—A Cabinet for Pamphlets and Pic¬ 
tures 

X SCRAPBOOKS. 

A Home-Made Scrapbook—Covers—Leaves 
—Punching—Lacing—Screw-Posts—Ar¬ 
ranging Clippings—Indexing—An En¬ 
velope Scrap-File 


PAGE 

68 


76 


84 


105 


126 


136 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER 

XI FOR THE SUNDAY SCHOOL CLASS . 

A Class Table—A Pedestal—A Class Gavel 
—A Class Screen—A Chair Hat-Rack 

XII FRAMING PICTURES FOR THE 

SCHOOL ROOM. 

Passe Partout Pictures—A Lath Picture- 
Frame—An Ornate Frame 

XIII BANNERS, PENNANTS, STAFFS AND 

BASES. 

A Staff—A Four-Wing Base—A Base 
with a Pipe-Fitting Socket—A Small 
Staff and Base for a Table—A Small 
Base for a Pennant—A Spool Base— 
Finishing Staffs and Bases—Perfect At¬ 
tendance Awards—Banners and Pen¬ 
nants—A Star Banner—A Concrete 
Base for a Flag—A Round Concrete 
Base 

XIY PRINTING FOR THE CHURCH AND 

SUNDAY SCHOOL. 

What to Print—Introduction Tags—At¬ 
tendance Booster Tags—Absent Mem¬ 
ber Reminders—Novel Invitations to 
Socials—A Church or Sunday School 
Paper or Bulletin 

XY ATTENDANCE THERMOMETERS AND 
DIALS ....... 

New Member Contests—How to Make an 
Attendance Thermometer—A Two-Tube 
Contest Thermometer—An Attendance 
Dial 

XVI BANKS AND CONTRIBUTION BOXES . 
A Mite Box—A Contribution Box—A 
Large Contribution Box 


xiii 

PAGE 

142 


157 


166 


182 


194 


203 


CONTENTS 


xiv 

CHAPTER PAGE 

XVII BULLETIN BOARDS .... 212 

A Bulletin Board on Posts—A Portable 

Bulletin Board—An Indoor Bulletin 
Board—A Bulletin Board with a Glass 
Front 

XVIII BLACKBOARDS AND AN EASEL . 224 

A Wallboard and Lath Blackboard—A 

Blackboard and Bulletin Board—An 
Easel for Blackboards and Maps 

XIX FOR THE COAT-ROOM .... 230 

A Coat-and-Hat-Rack for a Wall—A Port¬ 
able Rack—A Whisk-Broom Holder—A 
Shoe-Polishing Case—A Waste-Basket 

XX BOOTHS FOR CHURCH BAZAARS . . 244 

A Fancywork Booth—A Pergola Booth— 

A Flower Booth—An Ice-Cream Booth 
—An Old-Well Grab-Booth—Knock- 
Down Booths—A Handicraft Booth 

XXI A SANTA CLAUS FIREPLACE AND A 

TREE BASE.258 

A Fireplace and Mantel—A Realistic Fire 
Effect—A Cross Standard for a Christ¬ 
mas Tree—A Box Standard 


INDEX 


269 



LIST OF HALFTONE ILLUSTRATIONS 
(in addition to 363 text illustrations) 


Fig. 

301. 

A Bulletin Board of Dignified Design for 
the Church Lawn (see Chapter XVII) 

Frontispiece 

FACING PAGE 

Fig. 

35. 

This Seasick Landlubber Toy Is Oper¬ 
ated by a Pendulum .... 

32 

Fig. 

36. 

The Man, Boat and Waves Are Easily 
Whittled Out ..... 

32 

Fig. 

59. 

A Whisk-Broom Holder Decorated with 
a Pasted Picture. 

46 

Fig. 

60. 

A Candle-stick. 

46 

Fig. 

61. 

A Thermometer Board .... 

46 

Fig. 

89. 

A Sand Table Model Illustrating the 
Story of Noah’s Ark .... 

66 

Fig. 

90. 

This Noah’s Ark Model Is Easy to Build 

66 

Fig. 

103. 

A Wooden Model of a Church Building 
Made by Earl Hemmerly . 

80 

Fig. 

104. 

Another Model Built by the Same Lad 

80 

Fig. 

180. 

A Bookcase with a Curtained Front 

122 

Fig. 

183. 

A Letter-Size Filing-Cabinet . 

126 

Fig. 

236. 

An Ornate Frame That Is Easy to 
Make. 

162 

Fig. 

263. 

Printing for the Church and Sunday 
School That Can Be Done on a Small 
Press. 

XV 

188 


xvi LIST OF HALFTONE ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING 

Fig. 307. A Portable Bulletin Board 

Fig. 356. A Fancywork Booth .... 

Fig. 357. A Pergola Booth. 

Fig. 358. A Flower Booth. 

Fig. 359. An Ice-cream Booth .... 
Fig. 360. An Old-Well Grab-Booth 

Fig. 366. A “Knock-Down” Booth Like This Can 
Be Preserved from Year to Year 


PAGE 

216 

244 

244 

244 

244 

244 

252 



CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL 
HANDICRAFT FOR BOYS 














CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL 
HANDICRAFT FOR BOYS 


Chapter I 

THE CHURCH WORKSHOP 

A Solid Workbench—A Vise—A Bench-Stop—A Box Bench— 
A Tool Board—An Odd-Job Nail-Box. 

The maintenance of building equipment, the con¬ 
struction of bazaar booths, scenery and properties 
for plays and other entertainments require the use 
of tools, and are reason enough for a basement work¬ 
shop if the shop is nothing more than a corner large 
enough to accommodate a bench and afford working 
space. Few church basements are so equipped, be¬ 
cause the busiest men of the community are usually 
the hardest workers in the church, and have enough 
demands on their time without casting about for 
something to do. 

You can appreciate the need of a bench in the 
church building if you have a home workbench. You 
know how much better you can plane a board held 
in a bench vise than one held by hand, and how much 
better you can perform all tool operations on a solid 
bench than on a rickety table, box or chair. If you 
11 


12 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

haven’t a home bench, you had better make one like 
that shown in this chapter, or like one of the benches 
described in “Home Handicraft for Boys” or my 
other handicraft books. Then, suppose you build a 
second bench for your first handicraft contribution 
to the church. Possibly the janitor is ruler of the 
basement domain, in which case it would be well to 
consult him before installing the bench. 

A SOLID WORKBENCH 

There isn’t much work to the construction of a 
bench like that shown in Figure 1, and it can be built 
quickly. Figure 2 shows the completed framework. 

The Legs A are 2-by-4s 28 inches long. Top plates 
B are 2-by-4s, and end cross-rails C are l-by-4s, each 
29 inches long. Side cross-rails E are l-by-4s 5 feet 
long, and diagonal braces D and F are l-by-4s. 
After cutting the pieces, build the pair of end 
frames, spiking plates B to the ends of legs A, and 
nailing rail C and braces D to the legs as shown in 
Figure 2. When these frames have been assembled, 
connect them with rails E and diagonal braces F. 
Test the corners of the frames with a square, before 
nailing the diagonals in place, to make sure that they 
are right angles. 

The Bench Top requires three pieces of 2-by-10- 
inch stuff 6 feet long. Set the first and third planks 
even with the ends of plates B, and project all of the 
ends 6 inches over the end frames. Spike the planks 
to the framework, and drive the heads well below the 
surface. Next, nail the apron G (Fig. 3) to the 


THE CHURCH WORKSHOP 


13 



Fig. I. THERE isn’t much work to making a bench like this 

















































14 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


Fig. 6 



Fig. 5 

FlG. 2 . THE COMPLETED FRAMEWORK OF THE WORK-BENCH 

Figs. 3-5. details of the bench-vise 
Fig. 6. a bench-stop 






























































































THE CHURCH WORKSHOP 


15 


front of the bench. Cut this out of a l-by-10-inch 
board. Trim off the ends as indicated. 

The Bench-vise requires an iron bench-screw (Fig. 
4). This will cost about 75 cents at a hardware 
store. Cut the vise jaw H (Fig. 5) out of a piece of 
2-by-6 20 inches long, bore a hole through the center 
of one face 6 inches below the top to receive the 
bench-screw, bevel off the top as shown, and notch 
the lower end for sliding-strip I, which is 1 by 3 by 
14 inches in size. 

The bench screw runs through a hole in the bench- 
apron and leg, and screws into the threaded socket 
(L, Fig. 3) provided with it. The socket must be 
set into the inner face of the bench leg and be fas¬ 
tened with screws. 

Sliding-strip I (Fig. 5) is a guide for the vise-jaw. 
When you place work in the vise, and adjust the peg 
in the right hole, the strip keeps the lower end of the 
jaw from pushing in too far. Make a pocket with 
blocks J and strip K, as shown in Figure 3, for the 
sliding-strip to slide in, and use a wooden peg or 
iron bolt for the peg M (Fig. 5). 

A Bench-stop. Cut a block of wood 4 by 6 inches 
in size, make a Y-shaped cut in one end (Fig. 6), and 
screw it to the left end of the bench top to shove 
work against. 


A BOX BENCH 

For odd jobs in the church building, a small bench 
like that shown in Figure 7 will save the wear and 
tear on chairs and tables which generally result from 


16 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

their use as saw-horses and benches. Being light in 
weight, it can easily be carried from room to room. 
And the compartments inside the box will accom¬ 
modate a few tools and a nail-box. 



This type of work-bench is also a good individual 
bench for use in Daily Vacation Bible Schools, for 
coping-saw problems. As it is easily made of inex¬ 
pensive materials, a number of them might be pro¬ 
vided for class work. 

Use a Packing Box that is strongly made of good 























THE CHURCH WORKSHOP 


17 


material and if any of the boards show signs of 
loosening, reenforce the nailing. Also, procure four 
% inch by 3 inch strips for legs, and several addi¬ 
tional strips for compartment partitions. The ordi¬ 
nary height of a work-bench is 32 inches, but this 



Fig. 8. this is the way to use the coping-saw on the 

BOX EENCH 

can be regulated to suit one’s height. If the bench 
is to be used for coping-saw work, it can be of table 
height, and the boy working at it can sit on a box 
stool, as suggested in Figure 8. Saw a V-shaped 
notch in the front edge of the top (Fig. 7) for the 
coping-saw to work in. The piece to be sawed can be 
placed over the notch, and will be supported on both 
sides of the saw. Fasten a board across the front qf 
the box, and partition the inside into compartments 
as shown. 






















18 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


A TOOL BOAED 

The board in Figure 9 will accommodate a small 
tool outfit such as should be on hand in a church 
building for odd jobs. The outfit suggested consists 
of a cross-cut saw, hatchet, hammer, bit-brace and 



two sizes of bits, hand gimlet, chisel, screw-driver, 
file, pliers, try-square, coping-saw and keyhole-saw. 
In addition to these tools there should be a plane, 
but this should be kept upon a shelf as it is a tool 
that cannot be hung up very well. If every tool is 
kept in its place, the board will be found convenient. 
Occasionally a tool will be missing or hung on the 
wrong hooks. A good plan is to draw an outline of 
each tool upon the board, as suggested by dotted 









































THE CHURCH WORKSHOP 19 

lines in Figure 9, then a person can see at a glance 
what tool is missing, and borrowers can see where to 
hang tools when they return them. 

The Size of the Board will depend on the number 
of tools to be provided for and their lengths. The 
best way to arrive at the dimensions is to take all 
of the tools and arrange them upon a table in some 
such way as the diagram of Figure 9 suggests. By 
careful planning you will see how the tools can be 
fitted close together so little space is lost. 



Fig. IO. DETAIL OF TOOL-BOARD 


Build Up the Tool-board of boards A, as shown in 
Figure 10, fastening these together with end battens 
B. The number of boards to use will depend on the 
width of the tool layout, and upon the width of the 
boards you can get. If you use boards % inch thick, 
battens B can be nailed to the board ends, but if you 
use box boards % or % inch thick, the battens should 
be fastened to the back of the boards and the nails 
driven through the battens and the boards and 
clinched. 

Hangers . Screw-hooks, or nails with large heads, 
should be used for hangers for the tools (Fig. 10). 
Long, slim tools like wood-bits cannot be supported 
in a vertical position as easily as tools with handles. 









20 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


You can provide screw-eyes or staples to support the 
upper part of these and a block to support the lower 
ends (Fig. 9). 


AN ODD-JOB NAIL-BOX 

Tacks, brads, nails, screws, screw-eyes, picture- 
hooks, and other small hardware would often bring a 
premium if they could be produced at the psychologi- 



FlG. II. A HANDY NAIL-BOX 


cal moment when a committee is on hand to decorate 
the church or Sunday school room. Some one al¬ 
ways knows that the desired tacks or nails are some¬ 
where but somewhere is too indefinite. The odd-job 
nail-box shown in Figure 11 will be easier to find 
than a box of 4-oz. upholstering tacks. Its fourteen 
compartments will take care of most of the sizes of 
small hardware used for odd jobs. 

The Parts. Box boards % inch thick can be used 
for the box. A pattern for the bottom is given in 
Figure 12, a pattern for the sides in Figure 13, and 
a pattern for the ends in Figure 14. The double 


THE CHURCH WORKSHOP 


21 


lines on the patterns of the bottom and side pieces 
indicate saw slots made to receive the edges of the 
partitions. Locate the slots in the places indicated 
and cut them % inch deep. 


Fig. 13 









oi 

} 

k 



15 §, 

"., . J 

i 




IP 8 


1 



f-2^ 





0) 


Fig. 12 



Fig. 15 Fig. 14 

Figs. 12-15. patterns for the nail-box 


In Assembling the Box , nail together the side and 
end pieces first, then nail the bottom board to their 
edges. 

The Compartment Partitions are of tin. Cut them 
out of tin cans, with tinsnips, or an old pair of 
shears. Figure 15 is a pattern for these pieces. 



































22 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

Slip the partitions into the slots cut for them, and 
fasten them in place with a center strip of wood wide 
enough to lap half an inch over their inside ends. 
To this center strip screw a drawer-pull or window 
sash-lift at the center of its length for a handle to 
carry the box by. 

Finish the Box with a coat of shellac, paint, or 
wood-stain. 


Chapter II 

TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE 
DAILY VACATION BIBLE SCHOOL 

Cork Toys: A Horse—A Porcupine—A Pig—A Pigrich Bird— 
A Duck—A Teeter—A Bed—A Chair—A Table—Pots for 
Toy Plants—A Javelin. 

Pendulum Toys: The Seasick Landlubber—The Ouija Bird. 
Tumble Toys: Tumble Tom’s Trick Ladder—Topsy Turvy Blocks. 

You boys may think some of the ideas presented 
in this chapter too elementary in character for a 
boy’s book of handicraft but bear in mind that this 
is first of all a book of service. Maybe your younger 
brother or sister will want to make some of the sim¬ 
pler things in the Daily Vacation Bible School, and 
you can lend such assistance as is needed. In fact, 
if you are beyond the age for attending the Daily 
Vacation Bible School, you might render valuable 
assistance to the school leaders by helping with the 
handicraft instruction. 

There is a growing feeling among teachers of the 
Daily Vacation Bible Schools that the handicraft 
activities of the boy and girl pupils should not be 
confined to toys and other things made solely for 
play, because the real purpose of the work is lost 
sight of, and the child looks upon the program as 
only a means to add to his possessions. It is true 

23 


24 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


that there is danger of encouraging selfishness by 
making too much of the “make your own toy” idea. 
It is better to include material that will be of service 
to others—mother, father, the church, Sunday school, 
and the community. In following chapters and in 



Fig. 18 

Figs. 16-18. the horse 


“Home Mechanics for Boys,” much material will be 
found for a varied program—large articles for 
groups to make, small articles for individuals. But 
toy-making should not be eliminated from the pro¬ 
gram. Handled in a proper manner, there need be 
no cause for criticism. The work can be done in a 
wholly unselfish spirit. The toys need not be re¬ 
tained by the makers, but may be given to missions, 
sold at the close of the vacation school and the re- 







TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 25 


ceipts given to charity, sold at the toy or handicraft 
booth at the holiday bazaar of the churches the chil¬ 
dren attend, or given to poor children at Christmas 



Fig. 19. THE PORCUPINE 


time. And will it not be a more unselfish act for the 
child to give away the toy that he has made, and in 
which he sees possibilities of fun, than some other 
piece of handicraft designed for grown folks to use? 


Fig. 20 . 



CORK TOYS 

This line of toys has always appealed to me as 
among the most fascinating to make, and they inter¬ 
est young and old alike. When I was a lad, my 
brother and I made a whole menagerie of cork ani¬ 
mals for the church bazaars of two successive years, 






26 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


and they sold like hot cakes; everybody wanted to 
take home as a souvenir one of the curiously formed 
creatures with gilded bodies. About this time, too, 
I told how to make these animals and other cork 
objects in my first handicraft article 4 ‘Cork Toys,” 
published in “The Chicago Record.” Since then I 
have explained the work in books and in magazine 
articles, so perhaps your parents have made the toys, 
perhaps you have made them in a vacation school 



where these books and articles have been used. But 
new ideas included among the following suggestions 
will be worthy of notice. 

CORKS AND OTHER WORKING MATERIALS 

Corks for toy making may be saved from emptied 
bottles, but this source of supply need not be de¬ 
pended upon entirely, for corks can be bought inex¬ 
pensively at drugstores and ten-cent stores. In ad¬ 
dition to corks, there must be some cardboard (box 
cardboard will do), yarn, beads, toothpicks, burnt 
matches, pins and glue. For cutting the corks use a 
sharp knife or a coping-saw. 




TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 


27 


COBK ANIMALS 

The Horse (Fig. 16) has a body made of two tap¬ 
ered corks, with the small ends glued together. Use 
the pattern in Figure 17 for the head, and glue this 



Fig. 22 


Fig. 22. THE PIGRICH BIRD 

FlG. 23. PATTERN FOR HEAD FOR THE PIGRICH BIRD AND THE PIG 


/ 


in a slot cut across the end of the body. The legs 
may be toothpicks or matches; glue them in holes in 
the cork body. The tail is made of several strands 
of yarn tied to a pin (Fig. 18), and the pin is stuck 
into the body. 



28 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

The Fwiny Porcupme (Fig. 19) has a tapered 
cork body, toothpick legs, a cardboard head (Fig. 
20) and toothpick quills. 

The Pig (Fig. 21) may be made in the same way, 
omitting the quills, making a head like the pattern 
(Fig. 23) and using a piece of wire for a tail. 



Fig. 27 

Figs. 24-27. the duck 


Because cork birds and animals are funny crea¬ 
tures at best, it is proper to devise varieties other 
than those found in zoos. With a little thought all 
sorts of specimens can be produced. 

The Pig rich Bird (Fig. 22) is a peculiar specimen. 
Isn’t he a dandy with his ornamented neck? Five 
glass beads strung upon a toothpick form the neck, 














TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 29 

the cardboard head (Fig. 23) sticks upon the tooth¬ 
pick neck, and the toothpick legs have beads glued 
upon their ends. 



The Duck (Fig. 24) is one of the many floating 
toys which can be made. Figure 25 shows the head 
and neck, Figure 26 the tail, and Figure 27 the keel 



fastened to the under side of the body to prevent up¬ 
setting. The keel should be a piece of cardboard 
coated with paraffin or a piece of tin. 

The Teeter . Figure 28 shows a teeter for a cork 
animal circus. The strip of cardboard used for the 



SO CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


teeter is bent down at the edges and pinned to the 
ends of a straight cork. Holes may be punched for 
the animals ’ legs to stick in. 


CORK FURNITURE 

Enough cork furniture can be devised to furnish a 
doll’s house. 



A Bed . Figure 29 shows a bed. This has a card¬ 
board mattress, cork feet, and a pillow made of two 
tapered corks. 

A Chair . You will not deny that the chair in 
Figure 30 has style. The seat is a pickle bottle cork; 
the legs and back are made of long pins wound with 














TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 81 


yarn. Figure 31 shows how to weave the yarn 
around the pins of the chair-back. 



Fig. 32. A TABLE 

The Table in Figure 32 has a pickle bottle cork 
top, with pins stuck around its edge. Upon the pins 



Fife. 33. A POT FOR A TOY PLANT 

yarn is woven in the same manner as the chair-back. 
The legs are pins with glass beads slipped onto them 
and pushed down to the heads, and they are wound 
with yarn. 







32 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


Pots for Toy Plants . Tapered corks make excel¬ 
lent pots for a doll-house (Fig. 33), and the plants 
can be made of paper, or pieces of artificial fern 
may be used. 


A CORK JAVELIN" 

If you have never made a cork javelin to toss at a 
target, you have missed a lot of fun. Figure 34 



Fig. 34. a javelin 

shows how to make one by inserting a needle in the 
bottom of a tapered cork, and a feather in the top. 

PENDULUM TOYS 

The Seasick Landlubber Toy . This mechanical 
toy, shown in the photographs of Figures 35 and 36, 
is adapted from a pen-tray designed and made dur- 





Fig. 36. THE MAN, BOAT AND WAVES ARE EASILY WHITTLED OUT 



Fig. 35. THIS SEASICK LANDLUBBER TOY IS OPERATED 

BY A PENDULUM 


[Facing page 32 




























































TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 33 


ing the war by a disabled soldier of the Lord Roberts 
Memorial Workshops, London, England. The origi¬ 
nal, in my possession, is one of the most comical 
models I have seen and I believe that this mechanical 



Figs. 37 and 38. details of wave strips 
Fig. 39. the landlubber’s boat 
Fig. 40. PENDULUM FOR rocking the boat 


adaptation, shown in the illustrations, will prove a 
most interesting toy to you boys. Place it on a man¬ 
tel shelf, on a bookcase, or on a bracket fastened to a 
wall, so the pendulum and suspending cord swing 
free and clear, and it will become a permanent source 
of fun, a novelty each visitor to your home will en¬ 
joy. 





















34 , CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


This might be called a jack-knife model, because 
practically all of its parts can be whittled. 

The Waves are made of two strips cut from a box 
board % inch thick. Figure 37 shows one strip (A) 
and Figure 38 the other (C), with dimensions for 
laying them out. Scallop the tops as shown, to form 
waves. 

The Rowboat is also a piece of box board. Lay it 
out by the pattern of Figure 39. Notice that the 
upper edge of this block curves slightly between bow 
and stern. Pivot the boat between the wave strips 
on a screw driven through strip A, slipped through 
a hole in the hull a trifle larger than the screw, and 
driven part way into strip C. Spool halves D (Fig. 
37) are separators fastened between the ends of the 
wave strips. Place iron washers on the screw pivot 
each side of the boat. Nail strip A to base block B, 
a block 5 inches wide by the length of the strip. 

The Pendulum is a piece of broom-handle 8 inches 
long with a screw-eye screwed into one end (F, Fig. 
40). Use heavy cord for the suspension cords. Dou¬ 
ble a piece 54 inches long, loop it through the screw- 
eye in the end of the pendulum, and tie the end to a 
pair of screw-eyes of the size used on the back of 
small picture frames, screwed into the hull of the 
boat at points G (Fig. 39). Join the cords 6 inches 
below the boat hull as shown in the photograph of 
Figure 35. 

The Landlubber has a shoulder block (H, Fig. 41), 
head (I), spiral-spring neck (J, Fig. 42), and arms 
and hands (K, Fig. 43). Cut shoulder block H by 
the pattern in Figure 41. Tack it to the center of the 


TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 35 

back of the boat so it appears above the boat as 
shown in the photograph. 

His Head . Cut a block of soft pine 1% inches 
square for the head block (Fig. 44). With your knife 
cut off the comers as shown in Figure 45, then 
continue cutting until the corners are rounded and 
the block becomes spherical. When you are satisfied 



Fig. 42 Fig. 41 


Fig. 41. DETAIL OF HEAD AND SHOULDER 
Fig. 42. SPRING FOR NECK 
Fig. 43. hand 

that you have a perfect sphere, rub up the surface 
with sandpaper until smooth. Figure 46 shows the 
completed head. Suggestions for painting will be 
given later. 

His Neck is a spiral spring 1% inches long. Get 
a piece of spring brass wire of fine gauge, and wind 
it about a ten-penny common nail, pushing the turns 
close together, until the coil of the desired length has 
been obtained (Fig. 42). If you cannot get spring 
brass wire at your hardware store, buy one of the 






S6 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


spiral brass curtain-rods that sell for 5 cents at the 
five-and-ten-cent stores, and cut a piece off one end. 
A section of one of these springs was used in the 
model illustrated. Drill a hole % inch deep in the 
head, to receive the spiral spring. Attach the other 
end of the spring to shoulder block H with small 
staples, as shown in Figure 41. Cut a notch in the 
edge of the block, as shown, for the spiral to rest 
in. 




Figs. 44-46. how to whittle the head out 



Fig. 46 

OF A BLOCK OF WOOD 


His Hcmds should be cut by the pattern in Figure 
43. Fasten them to the side of the boat with glue 
and short brads. 

You have been told how to assemble each part as 
prepared. But the assembling should only be done 
for the purpose of seeing that parts fit properly, for 
all parts must be separated for painting. 

Finishing. Several colors should be used for fin¬ 
ishing. Enamel paints are best, and these can be 
purchased in quarter-pint cans. Two coats will be 
necessary to cover perfectly. The waves should be 
a light blue with the crests indicated in white. The 





TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 37 

boat should be white, striped with black to indicate 
seams. A band of red should be added to the upper 
edge. The seasick landlubber’s head should be gray¬ 
ish white, made by mixing a bit of black in white 
paint. Features and hair should be indicated with 



Fig. 47 . THE OUIJA BIRD roosts well upon a mantel shelf 

black paint. Follow the diagram in Figure 46 in 
marking the features. The base block (B) should be 
painted blue, the pendulum (F) red. Allow surfaces 
to dry twenty-four hours before assembling parts, 
so the paint will be perfectly dry. 

When the seasick landlubber model is completed, 
you may find adjustment of the neck necessary to 



38 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


give the head a realistic poise. If yon have been on 
a rough sea you may know all about it. 

The Ouija Bird roosts well upon a mantel shelf or 
plate-rail, where its pendulum is free to swing (Fig. 
47). Note that the pendulum causes the head and 
tail to move. You do not have to be an artist to make 



the bird. You can cut it of any shape or size you 
want. In the detail drawing (Fig. 49), A shows the 
body, B the head and neck, and C the tail. The neck 
and tail are pivoted to the back of the body with 
tacks, at the points G, and strings I are attached to 
tacks driven at points H, and are tied to a screw-eye 
in the end of a piece of broom-handle J (Fig. 50) 
which forms the pendulum. 








TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 39 

The Toy Is Mounted upon a board base D (Figs. 
48 and 49), by means of a round stick E, one end of 
which is glued in a hole bored in base D, and the 



Fig. 49 

Fig. 49. details of ouija bird pendulum toy 

Fig. 50. BROOM-HANDLE PENDULUM 


other in a block F, which block is fastened to the 
back of the body. 

Paint the Parts before assembling them. Here 
you will have opportunity to execute something un¬ 
usual in plumage. 












Fig. 51. TUMBLE TOM AND HIS TRICK LADDER 
Fig. 52. PATTERN FOR LADDER 
FlG. 53. PATTERN FOR TUMBLE TOM 










































































TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 41 


TUMBLE TOYS 

A hammer and a pair of scissors are the only tools 
required to make these tumble toys, and the material 
can be found in every household. 

Tumble Tom’s Trick Ladder (Fig. 51) is made of 
a stick 3 inches wide and a trifle longer than 23 inches 
(Fig. 52). If you find a piece of wood wider and 
longer than these dimensions, it will not be necessary 
to cut it down. The rails and rungs of the ladder 
can be drawn with the spacing indicated on the dia¬ 
gram of Figure 52, and whatever additional width 
and length remain can be left as margins. Use a 
ruler and pencil to mark off the ladder. First, draw 
the side rails, then along them lay off the spacing for 
the rungs and draw a pair of lines for each. 

Along one rail, opposite each rung, drive a brad 
or nail % or 1 inch long (Fig. 51), and in the other 
rail drive a brad or nail halfway between each pair 
of rungs. This completes the ladder. 

Tumble Tom may be drawn from the model shown, 
or you can use a picture cut from a magazine. The 
picture must be drawn or pasted upon a piece of 
cardboard cut of the shape and size shown in the 
diagram of Figure 53. 

How the Toy Works . Figure 51 shows the start 
of Tom’s tumble. If the arms are cut as shown, they 
will slip off the nails alternately, and Tom will de¬ 
scend rapidly to the bottom. If you wish, you can 
prepare two or three tumblers and start one after 
another down the ladder. 

The Topsy Turvy Blocks shown in Figure 54 de- 




42 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 





















TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 43 

ceive the eye. Apparently the block next the top 
tumbles from its place to the bottom of the string, 
but in reality it simply turns topsy turvy and each 
succeeding block does likewise. 

The String of Blochs can be made as long as you 
wish. Eight or nine is a good number. They may 
be cut out of thin wood but the set shown in Figure 
54 is of cardboard, which is easier and quicker to 
cut. Figure 55 shows a good size to make them. 

The blocks are connected with pieces of heavy 
linen thread. Each block requires three threads, ex¬ 
cept one end block which requires none. Cut the 
threads 4% inches long. For fastening the threads 
to the cards, cut gummed paper or adhesive tape into 
small pieces. The gummed flaps of envelopes may 
be used. 

To Assemble the Blochs, first stick three threads 
to all blocks except one, placing one thread at the 
center of one end and two near the edges at the other 
end, as shown in Figure 56. When the threads have 
been attached, it is only necessary to connect the 
other ends to adjoining blocks. You will readily 
understand how this is done by studying the dia¬ 
grams of Figures 57 and 58, which show opposite 
faces of the blocks. Letters A and B represent the 
threads upon alternate blocks, and letters C and D 
represent the threads on the intermediate blocks. 
You will notice that all of the A and B thread ends 
are fastened to the same face, and all of the C and 
the D thread ends to the opposite face. Turn the 
blocks about so that the ends will come as shown, 
compare the model with the diagrams to be sure that 




44 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 



Fig. 55. PATTERN FOR BLOCKS 

Fig. 56. FASTEN THREADS TO EACH BLOCK IN THIS MANNER 
Fig. 57. ONE FACE OF THE ASSEMBLED BLOCKS 
FlGo 58 . REVERSE FACE OF THE ASSEMBLED BLOCKS 



TOY PROBLEMS FOR THE BIBLE SCHOOL 45 

each block is placed correctly, and then fasten the 
thread ends. Leave a space of % inch between the 
blocks. 

To Start the Blocks Tumbling, hold an end block 
with one hand and turn it over endwise. Doing this 
will cause the second block to turn over as shown in 
Figure 54. The tumbling second block will cause the 
third block to turn over, and so on down to the end of 
the string. 


Chapter III 

HANDICRAFT FOR THE CHURCH BAZAAR 

A Whisk-Broom Holder—Candle-Sticks—A Thermometer Board 
—A Calendar-Board and Pen-Rack—A Post-Card Rack— 
A Clock-Shelf—A Broom-Holder—A Holder for Safety- 
Matches. 

Handicraft mentioned in connection with bazaars 
suggests fancywork, because that is what we find at 
handicraft booths, as a rule. It is the work of the 
ladies and girls of the church and Sunday school, not 
of the boys, however. You haven’t been called upon 
to serve in any way, have you? You haven’t even 
“carried water for the elephants,” so to speak, for 
an admission ticket. Why are you and the other 
boys not asked to contribute? I will tell you why. It 
is because no one has an idea of your ability to sup¬ 
ply a line of saleable articles. Let the bazaar com¬ 
mittee see what you can do, and ask them to allow 
you to demonstrate your ability to sell articles that 
you make, in a boys’ handicraft booth, and there will 
be no danger of your not being invited to serve in 
the same way each succeeding year. 


THINGS TO MAKE 

There are an unlimited number of articles that 
you can contribute to the holiday bazaar. Half a 

46 


Fig. 59 



Fig. 60 


Fig. 59. A WHISK-BROOM HOLDER DECORATED WITH A PASTED PICTURE 

Fig. 60. A CANDLE-STICK 
FlG. 6l. A THERMOMETER BOARD 

[Facing page 46 

























HANDICRAFT FOR THE CHURCH BAZAAR 47 


dozen ideas or more are presented in this chapter, 
others in succeeding chapters, and additional ma¬ 
terial will be found in “Home Handicraft for Boys” 
and my other books. The articles selected should be 
small, so they will not require much time to make, 
or much material, and so they can be sold cheaply. 


WORKING MATERIALS 

Cigar-boxes can be had for the asking at a drug¬ 
store. They furnish good small pieces of wood that 
take finish nicely. Grocery boxes, selected care¬ 
fully, and packing-boxes, like those in which paint- 
stores receive their goods, can also be used to ad¬ 
vantage. Ends of various kinds of wood can often 
be procured for little or nothing at mills, factories 
and carpenter shops. 

Glue, nails, screws, and other small hardware 
needed in the work will be a small cost item; also, 
paint, wood-stain, shellac and varnish which can be 
bought in small-sized cans. 

A WHISK-BROOM HOLDER 

You don’t have to be an artist to make things 
decorative. An example of how you can decorate 
your work with pictures is shown in the photograph 
of the whisk-broom holder (Fig. 59). The bulldog’s 
head in the picture on the front of the holder was 
cut from a calendar. You will find plenty of suitable 
pictures on calendars and magazine covers, and it is 
no trick to cut them out and glue them to a surface 


48 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

of the article you are making. When the picture is 
of the right size, its outline can be followed in saw¬ 
ing out the piece upon which it is to be mounted, as 
was done in the case of the front of the whisk-broom 
holder. This makes a unique design. If, however, 
the picture is too small, a margin will have to be left 
around it. The picture used for the whisk-broom 
holder measures 7 inches up-and-down and 5% 
inches across, which is just right. These dimensions 
may be varied somewhat, if you find a picture of dif¬ 
ferent proportions. 

The Front of the Holder . Cut out the picture 
carefully, cutting just outside the outline so the 
line will be left on the picture. Then place the pic¬ 
ture upon the piece of board to be used for the front 
of the holder, mark around it with a pencil, saw 
out the piece, trim up the edges where necessary 
with knife or chisel, and smooth with sandpaper. 
Do not glue the picture to the piece until after the 
holder has been assembled and finished. 

The Other Parts. Figure 62 shows a cross-section 
of the bull-dog whisk-broom holder, with the head 
(A) drawn in full outline, the back (B) in dotted 
lines, and the end pieces (C) in cross-section. Fig¬ 
ure 63 shows a pattern for the back. If the front of 
your holder is a different width (the model is 5% 
inches) you may have to change the width of the 
back piece. Figure 64 is a pattern of the end pieces. 

Assemble the Parts with nails and glue. Screw a 
pair of screw-eyes into the top edge of the back piece 
for hangers. 

Finishing. The model illustrated was finished 


HANDICRAFT FOR THE CHURCH BAZAAR 49 


with one coat of flat white paint (paint mixed with¬ 
out linseed oil) and two coats of white enamel. 
This is the best finish for a whisk-broom holder that 
is to hang in a bedroom. If you prefer to stain the 
holder, follow staining with a coat of shellac, then 
wax the surfaces. When the finish has dried, coat 



Fig. 62. CROSS-SECTION OF the whisk-broom holder shown in 
FIGURE 59 

Figs. 63 and 64. patterns of back and end pieces 

the front of the holder and the back of the picture 
with glue, put the picture in place, rub down the sur¬ 
face with a cloth, and weight it with books until the 
glue has set. 


CANDLE-STICKS 

Candle-sticks are in vogue now and can be sold in 
pairs or singly. Most people like to have a pair of 
them on the mantel-shelf. Make a lot of them for the 









50 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

holiday bazaar for you will have no difficulty in dis¬ 
posing of them. The design shown in the photo- 



FlGS. 65-68. PATTERNS FOR CANDLE-STICK SHOWN IN FIGURE 60 

graph of Figure 60 is an attractive one that is easily 
executed. 



























HANDICRAFT FOR THE CHURCH BAZAAR 51 

The Parts. Working-drawings for the parts of the 
candle-stick are given in Figures 65 to 68. Part A is 
the base, B the upright, C the cap block, and D the 
handle. Block B must be cut out of 1% inch stock; 
% inch stuff is right for the other blocks. If you are 
going to make up a number of the candle-sticks, it 
will save time to buy strips 1% inches square and 
saw them into the right lengths for blocks B, and to 
buy strips 1% inches wide to saw up for cap and 
handle blocks C and D. To save waste, base blocks 
A can be marked off on a board by turning your pat¬ 
tern first one way, then the other, and fitting the 
slanted edges together. 

Cutting. Cut the pieces carefully. You may be 
inclined to hurry the work, in making a number of 
the candle-sticks; but don’t for the sake of your 
reputation. Bore the holes in handle blocks D be¬ 
fore cutting the blocks, to avoid splitting the wood. 
When all parts have been cut, smooth them with No. 
00 sandpaper. 

Assembling. Use glue and 1-inch brads for as¬ 
sembling the parts. If oak or other hard wood has 
been used, start holes for the brads with a brad-awl 
or wood-drill. 


A THERMOMETER BOARD 

This little novelty, shown in the photograph of 
Figure 61, has a back of the shape and size shown in 
the pattern of Figure 69. Small thermometers can 
be procured through a jeweler in your town. One 4 
inches long will cost about thirty cents. Small 


52 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


calendar pads can be bought at most stationery 
stores the latter part of the year. They sell at two 
or three cents apiece, or less in quantity. 



Fig. 69. PATTERN FOR THERMOMETER BOARD SHOWN IN FIGURE 6l 


The Board. In laying out the thermometer board 
and other pieces, the opposite edges of which are 
alike, it is well to draw a center-line on the piece of 
work, and mark off the measurements each side of 
it. One side can be drawn, then a tracing made of 











HANDICRAFT FOR THE CHURCH BAZAAR 53 

it, the paper reversed, and the outline transferred to 
the opposite side of the center-line. 



FlG. 70. A CALENDAR-BOARD AND PEN-RACK 
Fig. 71. A POST-CARD RACK 

FlG. 72. PATTERN OF BOARD FOR THE PEN-RACK AND THE POST-CARD 
RACK 

Assembling . The two circles shown on the calen¬ 
dar board diagram are shallow holes provided 





























54 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

recesses for the thermometer bulb and upper tip of 
the tube to set in. Drive a screw-eye into the top of 
the board as a hanger. Tack the thermometer and 
calendar pad to the board after the wood has been 
finished, using small round-head brass nails for the 
purpose. 



Fig. 73. A CLOCK-SHELF 


A CALENDAR-BOARD AND PEN-RACK 

The little calendar-board and pen-rack shown in 
Figure 70 requires a piece of board of the dimen¬ 
sions given on the pattern of Figure 72. Eound the 
corners as shown in Figure 70. A pair of thread 
spools fastened to each side of the calendar board 
form a base. The front pair make the pen and pen¬ 
cil rack. You can nail the spools to the board; or 
you can bore a pair of holes through the board, 
drive a dowel-stick through each hole, and glue 
spools upon the stick ends. 
















HANDICRAFT FOR THE CHURCH BAZAAR 55 


A POST-CARD RACK 

The post-card or stationery-rack in Figure 71 re¬ 
quires two pieces of the shape of the calendar- 
board. The pieces are connected by a pair of spools. 
Bore 1 A -inch holes through the end pieces, and run 
dowel-sticks through the holes and the spool holes. 



Figs. 74 and 75. patterns for top and bracket 

A CLOCK-SHELF 

The bracket shelf in Figure 73 is suitable for a 
kitchen or bedroom. It is made of three pieces, a 
shelf, back board and bracket. Dimensions of the 
pieces are shown in Figures 74 and 75. Saw off the 
lower corners of the back piece (Fig. 73). Nail the 
shelf to the top edge of the back piece, and fasten 
the bracket to both. Bore holes through the back 
piece to provide for screwing the shelf to a wall. 




















56 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


A BROOM-HOLDER 


Figure 76 shows a broom-holder. Cut the bracket 
block by the pattern of Figure 77. Cut the back 



FlG. 76. A BROOM-HOLDER 


board 3% inches wide and 7 inches long, bevel its 
four edges as shown in Figure 76, and bore a hole 
near each end for screws. Nail the back to the edge 
of the bracket block. 



#9 

-ZU* 

Fig. 77. PATTERN FOR BROOM-HOLDER 


A HOLDER FOR SAFETY MATCHES 

This makes the simplest match-box I know of, and 
it is a practical one. I devised the holder two years 
ago for my troop of Boy Scouts to make for their 
Christmas Gift Shop, and the boys sold dozens of 
them. It makes a good holder beside the kitchen 
range or near the laundry stove or furnace in the 
















HANDICRAFT FOR THE CHURCH BAZAAR 57 

basement. Urge your customers to buy them in half 
dozen lots. 

Marking and Cutting the Blocks. Figure 78 shows 
the holder with match-box in place, Figure 79 shows 
the little block that supports the match-box, and 



Fig. 8i 

Fig. 78. A HOLDER FOR SAFETY MATCHES 
Figs. 79-81. details of the match holder 


Figure 80 shows how by marking off distances of 
1% inches along a piece of l-by-2 "furring strip” 
(this will measure % inch thick and 1% inches wide), 
you can saw up the strip into a number of blocks in 
a jiffy. In cutting the blocks, care must be taken 
not to split the edges. To prevent this, place the 
strip upon another strip and saw through the upper 




































58 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

strip into the lower one. When the blocks have been 
sawed, cut away one-half of the surface on one face 
to a depth of % inch, as shown in Figure 79. This 
is best done with a small saw but a chisel can be used. 

Finish the Blocks by drilling holes for nails or 
screws for fastening to a wall or other surface, then 
giving them a coat of paint, stain, or shellac. 

The Match-box. The sleeve cover of the match¬ 
box will slip over the block as shown in Figure 78, 
and there will be enough clearance between the cover 
and the surface to which the block is to be fastened, 
for the cover to slip on and oft easily. The upper 
part of the match-box should be broken away at the 
height of the sleeve cover (Figs. 78 and 81). Then 
the match-ends can be reached easily. The upper 
part of the box can be broken oft after the lower 
part has been slipped into the sleeve. 


Chapter IV 

THE SAND TABLE 

The Sand Box—The Sand Box Supports—Painting the Sand 
Table—Materials for Model Making—Care of Properties. 

This important piece of equipment for the pri¬ 
mary department of the Sunday school is not as 
commonly used as it should be. Often this is because 
the ready-made table is expensive and no one volun¬ 
teers to build one. A zinc-lined tray with a table 
base is unnecessary; on the other hand the box 
should be better made than some of the carelessly 
knocked together trays that we find in use. It should 
be a tight box, but not necessarily water-tight as it 
is not intended to hold water. With the bottom 
boards matched and all boards well nailed, and the 
completed box given two coats of paint, inside and 
out, there will be no danger of sand sifting through 
onto the floor. By sprinkling the sand with a sprink¬ 
ling-can it is easy to regulate the amount of water 
when the sand is to be made wet. If a metal-lined 
box is desired by the school, it is not difficult for a 
boy experienced in soldering to make a galvanized 
iron liner. Or, one can be ordered at a tinshop for 
about four dollars. However, I shall show no detail 
59 


60 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


of a liner, because I believe that few will insist on 
increasing the cost of the equipment in this manner. 


THE SAND BOX 

You boys will say that the tray shown in Figure 
82 looks like a wagon-box; and so it does, except that 



FlG. 82. THE COMPLETED SAND BOX 
Fig. 83. CROSS-SECTION OF box 

Big. 84. MAKE THE BOX BOTTOM OF TONGUED-AND-GROOVED BOARDS 


there is no end-gate. By Figures 83 and 84 you will 
see that its sides overlap its ends, and that its bottom 
boards overlap the sides and ends, just like any 
other bos. A base band, consisting of a lattice-strip 
1% inches wide, conceals the joints between the bot¬ 
tom boards and box ends and sides, and a strip % 
inch thick and % inch wide trims the upper edges. 





THE SAND TABLE 


61 


A good size for the sand tray is 4% inches deep in¬ 
side, 30 inches wide, and 48 inches long. The depth 
suggested provides for 3 inches of sand, and enough 
space above it to keep the sand from scattering on 
the floor. 

Material. Make the box of soft pine, cypress or 
spruce. Do not use hard pine or other hard wood, 
as it is too heavy. For the bottom buy 6-inch 
tongued-and-grooved flooring. Buy 2-inch finishing 
nails for nailing the box together. 

Figure 84 shows the box frame with several .of the 
bottom boards nailed in place. Drive the boards 
close together and nail well. 


THE SAND BOX STJPPOBTS 

The support for the sand box should be no higher 
than a chair-seat, which is about 18 inches. A regu¬ 
lar table can be built on which to keep the box, or 
legs can be fastened to the corners of the box, but a 
pair of carpenter ’s horses are probably the best sup¬ 
ports (Fig. 85). The top of the horse is a piece of 
2-by-4, the legs are pieces of l-by-4, the end braces 
are cut from a 6-inch board. Figure 86 shows the 
correct spread of the legs, and how the tops are let 
into the sides of the top piece. Cut away the piece 
of 2-by-4 as shown in Figure 87. The sides of the 
cut should be sawed and the wood between the cuts 
should be split out with a chisel. Fasten the legs 
with screws. The shape of the end braces can be 
marked oft by placing the board against the legs 
and marking off where the legs come. Nail them to 


62 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


the edges of the legs. The bottom of the legs should 
be trimmed off to make them stand squarely upon 
the floor. Mark them for trimming by placing a 
block of wood against them, one side at a time, and 
drawing a line even with the top of the block. 



Fig. 85. a pair of carpenter’s horses make good supports for the 

SAND BOX 

Fig. 86. detail showing height and spread of legs 
Fig. 87. detail of top showing beveled cut for leg 


PAINTING THE SAND TABLE 

The sand box shown in the photograph of Figure 
89 is painted gray, inside and out, with top band 
painted red. Apply two coats, and between the two 
applications putty up joints and nail-holes. Paint 
the saw-horse supports to match the box. 








Fig. 88. some properties for sand table models 




















































64 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


MATERIALS FOR MODEL MAKING 

Possibly your interest in the sand table will not go 
beyond the construction of the box and supports, but 
you would enjoy helping the instructor hunt up her 
materials for model making, I know. Some of the 
properties are illustrated in Figure 88. 

Sand. In the first place, for filling the box go 
to a dealer in building materials, or to a building 
contractor, and purchase the equivalent of four 
large pails of sand, not the kind known as torpedo 
sand, but the finer beach sand. As you probably 
would have to pay for having such a small amount 
of sand hauled, you can make a couple of trips for 
it with your express wagon. 

Mountains. The base of mountains should be 
made by heaping up the sand. Stones can be added 
to produce a rocky effect. 

Water. The simplest way of producing realistic 
water effects is by the use of mirrors, or pieces of 
broken mirrors. It is not necessary to remove the 
mirror frame as this can be concealed with sand. 
Small mirrors can be purchased in the ten-cent 
stores, and one 7-by-9 inches can be had for twenty- 
five cents. If you wish to use real water, get a cake- 
tin with low sides, and set it in the sand, concealing 
the sides with sand, and the bottom with sand and 
gravel. In using the pan it is important to break 
up the regularity of its sides by extending capes and 
peninsulas out into it. Green or blue tissue-paper 
may be crushed into the form of waves to represent 
stormy seas. 


THE SAND TABLE 


65 


Trees . In some parts of the country, you can find 
branches of trees and shrubbery that make realistic 
small trees. Tips of pine, spruce and other ever¬ 
greens are good tree material. Burrs stuck together 
and mounted on twigs make good tropical trees, and 
I have stuck them on end, side by side, to represent 
shrubbery. Here is a good field for experimental 
work. By keeping your eyes open while on hikes 
you will see many grasses, weeds and ferns well 
adapted to miniature tree and shrubbery making, 
and in the course of a summer you can gather a 
large stock of material. 

Trees and shrubbery can be made of sponges torn 
apart into the shapes wanted. Another way to make 
trees is to take sticks an inch or so square, whittle 
them round, and then shave them off from the cen¬ 
ter towards the end, leaving the curled shavings to 
stand out in the manner shown in Figure 89. All 
artificial trees can be stained with oil-paint thinned 
with turpentine, or with dyes. 

Moss is excellent for grassy slopes, and closely 
cropped sod may also be used. 

Buildings . Sets of small buildings can be obtained 
in toy stores, but these will not always do for the 
lesson to be illustrated in the model. More appro¬ 
priate buildings can often be made of small stones, 
while match-boxes, pill-boxes, spools, corks, type¬ 
writer ribbon boxes and small candy boxes, can be 
used in the construction of buildings. By coating 
these containers with glue then sprinkling sand or 
salt over the coated surfaces, the effect of stone can 
be produced. Modeling clay and plaster-of-Paris 


66 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

can also be used to advantage in making structures 
of the various types of Bible times. Tents may be 
made of white note-paper. 

In making buildings, trees and other parts of the 
sand table models, use care to make them of propor¬ 
tions as nearly correct as possible. 

Figures . It is difficult to find dolls of the right 
size for Bible story models, and teachers who have 
used dolls for the purpose are of the opinion that 
their use is ill-advised because of the problem of 
dressing them in keeping with tradition. Many pre¬ 
fer the use of matches, short wax tapers or straws. 
Houses that supply Sunday school requisites furnish 
sheets of Bible picture cut-outs that are excellent 
for sand table models permitting the use of figures 
several inches high. A complete list of Bible-picture 
subjects can be obtained in these cut-outs. Toy lead 
soldiers, with guns removed, can be included, and 
animals from a toy Noah’s ark. Patterns for a 
number of animals are given in Chapter V, “A 
Noah’s Ark.” Other small animals can be picked 
up in a ten-cent store and in toy stores. In the 
photograph of Figure 89, animal crackers have been 
used for the model illustrating the story of the Ark. 

CAEE OF MODEL PROPERTIES 

Once you have acquired a large collection of ma- 
terials for model properties, or started a collection, 
a suitable method of filing must be found. By no 
means should everything be dumped into a box after 
use, for much of it would be unfit for use a second 



FlG. 89. A SAND TABLE MODEL ILLUSTRATING THE STORY OF NOAH’S ARK 



Fig. 90. this noah’s ark model is easy to build 
(For working details and instructions, see Chapter V) 

[ Facing page 66 















THE SAND TABLE 


67 

time, as a result of rough handling. The best way to 
keep the materials is to arrange them in a vertical 
filing cabinet, like that described and illustrated in 
Chapter IX. Cigar-boxes and starch-boxes can be 
used for containers, and the shelves of the cabinet 
spaced the correct distance to accommodate them. 
This cabinet can be made large enough to hold quar¬ 
terlies, picture-cards, and various primary supplies, 
in addition to the sand table properties. 


Chapter V 

A NOAH’S ARK 

Building the Ark—Cutting and Mounting the Birds and Animals. 

A Noah’s ark and its animals furnish a good set 
of problems for the Daily Vacation Bible School, the 
former a problem in laying out, cutting, and assem¬ 
bling parts accurately, the latter in cutting irregu¬ 
lar-shaped pieces with a coping-saw. A time-worn 
toy is this, but it also has its practical use in the 
primary department, where it may be kept among 
the properties for sand table work. Figure 89, in 
the preceding chapter, shows the ark for which work¬ 
ing drawings are given in this chapter, in the sand 
table picture model illustrating “The Story of 
Noah’s Ark,” and Figure 90 shows a larger view of 
the ark. 

Figure 91 shows a detail drawing of the completed 
ark, and Figures 92 to 100 details of its parts. If 
these details are carefully followed, the resultant 
model will be more substantial and better looking 
than most of the store arks. 

Material. This ark is built of wood %-inch thick, 
but grocery boxes, even though they may be %-inch 
wood will serve the purpose just as well as the thin¬ 
ner stuff, so do not go to the expense of having the 
material planed down. 

Do you know the right way to separate the boards 
68 


A NOAH’S ARK 69 

of a box? Do not try to remove a board by ham¬ 
mering directly against it, especially if it is a wide, 
thin board. It is almost certain to split if yon do 
this. Place a block of wood across the width of the 
board and direct your hammer blows against it. The 
force of the blows then, will be distributed evenly 



over the width of the board, and the board will come 
off easily. Remove one end of the board, first, then 
the other. If the board is nailed along its edge, use 
the block to separate it from the box. 

Laying Out and Cutting the Parts. Figure 92 
shows a detail of the ark with its roof removed. 
Figure 93 is a detail of the roof. Figure 94 a cross- 
section of the ark, and Figures 95 to 99 show pat¬ 
terns for all of the parts required, with dimensions. 
First, prepare two side walls like A (Fig 95), then 






70 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

two end walls like B (Fig. 96). One piece can be laid 
out and cut, then used as a pattern for marking the 
second piece. If you have a bit and bit-stock or a 
hand gimlet bore a hole at each of the four corners 



Fig. 92. DETAIL OF ARK WITH ROOF REMOVED 
FlG. 93 . DETAIL OF ROOF 

of the doorways in the end walls, and cut from hole 
to hole with a small saw. If you have no tool for 
boring, cut the doorways with your knife. By scor¬ 
ing the wood around the openings, on both sides of 
the board, with your knife, the thin wood will cut 
through quickly. 

Assembling the Parts . Nail end walls B to the 







Mt'H 


A NOAH’S ARK 


71 


Fig. 98 




Fig. 96 



Fig. 94. cross-section of ark 
Figs. 95-99. details of walls, roof and deck 
Fig. ioo. detail of spool wheels for model 














































72 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

ends of the side walls A. Then cut a board to fit 
between the four walls for the floor (C, Fig. 94), and 
fasten it in position with brads. Pieces D (Fig. 97) 
form the decks fore and aft (Fig. 92). 

The Roof . Instead of nailing one side of the roof 
to the ark, and hinging the other half to it, as the 
roofs of most toy arks are built, the entire roof is 
built in one removable section. This is a stronger 
form of construction. Hinged roofs are easily 
broken. The roof is made of four pieces (E, F, G, 
Figs. 93, 94, 98 and 99). Pieces E and F are of the 
same length (Fig. 98) but F is % inch narrower 
than E because the latter is lapped over its edge. 
Pieces G are braces. Cut them of the size shown in 
Figure 99. Fasten them between boards E and F, 
1% inches from the ends, so they will fit between the 
gables of the end walls when the roof section is 
placed upon the ark. 

Mounting the Toy Ark. The toy ark is mounted 
upon spool wheels (H, Figs. 94 and 100), so that it 
can be drawn across the floor like a toy wagon. Get 
four spools of equal size. Spools 1% inches in diam¬ 
eter and 2% inches long are the best size to use. 
Cut a round stick axle to fit loosely in the spool 
holes. Cut the axle sticks just long enough to fit be¬ 
tween walls A of the ark (I, Fig. 100) and fasten 
them with brads driven through the walls into their 
ends (Fig. 94). 

Finishing . Probably the original ark was not 
painted. Our toy should be, though, and I would 
suggest yellow or green for the walls and red for 
the roof and the decks. 



Fig. ioi. patterns for noah and a few animals for the toy 

ARK. (MAKE TRACINGS OF THESE ON THIN PAPER AND THEN 
TRANSFER THEM TO CARDBOARD.) 










74 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

Birds and Animals. Full-size patterns for a num¬ 
ber of animals for the toy ark are given in Figure 

101. Any well illustrated encyclopedia will furnish 
you with drawings for additional animals and birds. 
The patterns in Figure 101 can be traced upon thin 
paper, then the paper can be reversed, and the out¬ 
lines transferred upon cigar-box wood, or other thin 
wood or wallboard. 

The pattern shown for Noah can be altered for 
other members of Noah’s family. 

Working Material. If you use cigar-box wood, 
prepare the boxes for use by first placing them in a 
pail or tub of hot water, and allowing them to soak 
until the paper labels loosen. Peel off the paper, 
place the box covers against the bottoms, bind them 
with string to hold them flat, and place the boxes 
in a warm place to dry. When the wood is dry, 
separate the boxes. Other woods suited to coping- 
saw work are holly, basswood, and whitewood. 
Wallboard cuts as easily as wood, and is nice ma¬ 
terial to work with because it does not split. Rough 
edges can be sandpapered smooth just the same as 
rough edges of wood. 

Cutting. It is not necessary to cut out the figures 
along the drawing outlines. They will be stronger, 
in fact, if you do not, as you will see by looking at 
one of the finished animal cut-outs shown in Figure 

102 . 

Use a coping-saw for cutting. This small saw 
can be worked around curves and along short 
straight cuts where no other saw could be used. 
This style of saw is shown in use, in the sketch of 


A NOAH’S ARK 


75 


Figure 8, in Chapter I, which also shows a good 
form of box bench to saw on. 

Mounting . When you have cut out the figures, 
make mounts for them of narrow strips of wood, 



Fig. 102. MOUNT THE animals between wooden blocks, like this 

fastening the strips to opposite sides of the bases 
with brads, as shown in Figure 102. 

Coloring . If you wish to you can color the ani¬ 
mals with crayons or watercolors. 








Chapter VI 

MAKING A MODEL OF YOUR CHURCH 
BUILDING 

A Model of the New Building—The Model as a Bank for the 
Building Fund—A Model of the Old Building—A Card¬ 
board Model—A Wooden Model—A Clay or Plaster Model. 

Because it is difficult for some people to visualize 
the finished building from drawings, many archi¬ 
tects make or have made models of proposed resi¬ 
dences, churches, schools, and other buildings, with 
every detail in correct proportion. A number of 
firms make a specialty of this work, and some of 
the models shown in architectural exhibits are truly 
wonderful. Some of these models are made of wall- 
board, some of cardboard, some of wood, some are 
modeled in clay and cast in plaster-of-Paris. Then 
the texture of the building materials is worked out 
with paints, with pen-and-ink, with plaster, with 
glue and sand and in other ways. After the model 
has been completed it is usually mounted upon a 
base of the right size to represent the building lot, 
and a scheme for landscape gardening is laid out, 
all to scale. 

Architectural models of buildings are expensive 
to have made, for they represent more work than 

76 


MODEL OF YOUR CHURCH BUILDING 77 

one would suppose. But the work is not difficult, 
and can be done by any lad with plenty of patience 
and a good sense of proportion—best of all, if a 
boy has had mechanical drawing at school and can 
read an architect’s blueprints. He can generally 
obtain a set of blueprints of any new building of 
which he wishes to make a model, and make a model 
that will be exactly correct in every detail. 

A MODEL OF THE NEW BUILDING 

If your church is about to erect a new building, 
and you are interested in building, and have an 
idea that sometime you may take up the study of 
architecture, or if you just naturally like to con¬ 
struct things, suppose that you try your hand at 
making a model from a set of the architect’s plans. 
The model of the new church building will be ap¬ 
preciated, especially by the building committee 
whose mission it is to raise funds and erect a struc¬ 
ture that will please the majority of the church 
members. 

THE MODEL AS A BANK FOR THE BUILDING FUND 

One successful plan that has been tried is that of 
making a slot in the roof of the church model and 
converting it into a bank for contributions to the 
building fund. After the model has served its pur¬ 
pose as a booster for the new building, a shelf can be 
erected for it in the Sunday school room or it can be 
continued in service as a contribution box. 


78 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


A MODEL OF THE OLD BUILDING 

A model of the old building would be appreciated, 
also, by the old-timers who had a hand in its erec¬ 
tion, so you or some one else in your class might 
make such a model before the wreckers raze the 
building to make way for a new building. The old 
and new models, placed side by side, will show the 
growth of the church. 

A CARDBOARD MODEL 

It is easiest to make a scale model of a building 
of cardboard. Matboard, such as is sold for photo¬ 
graph mounts, is good. This can be obtained in 
various colors, and often you can find a shade 
that will match that of the material of which the 
building is to be constructed. Wallboard is also 
excellent for the work. 

The Walls. If you have had a course in mechani¬ 
cal drawing, it will be an easy matter to lay out the 
four elevations of the building to scale, upon four 
pieces of cardboard. Use a sharp knife for cutting 
matboard. Score along all outlines of each eleva¬ 
tion, by cutting deeply into the cardboard, then cut 
the rest of the thickness, or bend over the cardboard 
so that it will break along the scored lines. The 
door and window openings can be cut out, but gen¬ 
erally these are left intact. It makes an interesting 
model to cut out the window panes, cover the open¬ 
ings with transparent paper, and then place a small 
electric light inside, to give the effect of an electric- 


MODEL OF YOUR CHURCH BUILDING 79 

lighted interior. Use a sharp knife or saw for cut¬ 
ting wallboard. 

Assembling. When the four walls have been cut, 
fasten them together at the corners with strips of 
gummed paper. Then mount the model upon a 
board base before proceeding with its construction. 

Bays, Porches, Steps and Balustrades can be 
added now, or left until after the building has been 
roofed. 

The Roof . The pitch of this can be obtained from 
the blueprint elevations. Be careful to cut the roof¬ 
ing pieces of the right sizes so they will have the 
correct projections. 

Shingles, Slate a/nd Tile coverings of the roof can 
be indicated with paint, but a better way, and one 
used by achitectural model builders, is to cover the 
roofing cardboard with a thin coating of plasticine 
(a non-drying modeling compound), and then mark 
off shingles, slate or tile with the point of a nail. 

Brickwork. As plasticine can be obtained in vari¬ 
ous colors, you can match building materials with it. 
Terra cotta shades of it plastered thinly upon the 
walls, with joints struck in black or white, make ef¬ 
fective brickwork, when well done. 

Stucco can be imitated by spattering the walls with 
paint of the desired color. 

Painting. Paint all stone courses and woodwork. 
Indicate indefinitely shades upon the windows, and 
blacken the glass below the shades. 

Stained Glass Windows can be painted with water- 
colors; or, if you can find a suitable colored post¬ 
card, or Sunday school card, of the right size, bear- 


80 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


ing just such a picture as would be used in a church 
window, you can set it in the opening. 



Fig. 105. if you cannot obtain blueprints to work 

FROM, MAKE A SKETCH OF EACH ELEVATION OF THE 
BUILDING, LIKE THIS 


If you wish to make a model of a church building 
of which no plans are available, make a sketch of 
each elevation similar to that shown in Fig. 105. 











































































Fig. 103. a wooden 

MODEL OF A CHURCH 
BUILDING MADE BY 
EARL HEMMERLY 



Fig. 104. ANOTHER 
MODEL BUILT BY 
THE SAME LAD 



[Facing page 80 





















MODEL OF YOUR CHURCH BUILDING 81 

You can get all horizontal measurements accurately 
with a rule or tape, and you can approximate heights 
in the same way that you would measure the height 
of a tree. 


A WOODEN MODEL 

This is more difficult to make to scale than a card¬ 
board or wallboard model, because the walls must be 
built up of many pieces. But if you are experienced 
in woodworking you may prefer wood to other ma¬ 
terial. 

The photographs of Figures 103 and 104 show in¬ 
teresting models built a number of years ago by one 
of my readers, Earl Hemmerly, of Allentown, Penn¬ 
sylvania. Earl began making models before he was 
old enough to go to school, his first model being a 
Noah’s ark. He built the church model in Figure 
103—a model of his own church—while he was still 
in grammar school, the model in Figure 104, a year 
later. 

The Foundation. You must first of all provide a 
base on which to build the wooden model. Make this 
of several boards battened together with strips 
nailed across their ends. 

The Building. Upon the base, build the main por¬ 
tion of the structure, then add to it whatever wings 
and towers there may be, then construct the roof and 
steeples, then add the moldings and various orna¬ 
mentations. 

Doorways and Window Openings can be cut 
through the walls, or they may be indicated with 


82 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


paint, which is easier. Strips of cigar-box wood 
nailed around painted openings will make them look 
real. A small saw and a jack-knife will take care of 
all cutting. 

A Real Stained Glass Window is set in the model 
shown in Figure 103, and this is the way Earl Hem- 
merly made it. First, he prepared a negative from 
a picture post-card, then from the negative he made 
a positive, which he colored to match the post-card, 
and this he set in an opening cut in the wall. With 
a lighted electric-lamp placed inside the model, 
light coming through the stained glass window pro¬ 
duces a realistic effect. 

In building the other model (Fig. 104), Earl made 
use of various pick-up materials, among which were 
the following: 

Columns. Broom-handles and dowel-sticks. 

Dome . A tin funnel with the spout removed. 

Cornices and Belt Courses. Wooden picture- 
moldings with tacks driven into them for ornamen¬ 
tation. 

Painting. When the wooden model has been com¬ 
pleted, paint it with two coats of paint. 


A CLAY OR PLASTER MODEL 

Making a clay model of a building, then casting it 
in plaster-of-Paris, is a problem in which you may 
not be successful, especially in the latter operations 
of making the plaster molds and the plaster casts. 
But if you have modeling clay, you will find it inter- 


MODEL OF YOUR CHURCH BUILDING 83 

esting to make a small model of the church. It need 
not be cast in plaster, for it will dry hard, and in this 
form it will last a long time. Try your hand at 
making such a model when you have the opportunity. 


Chapter VII 

FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 

A Plant Box—A Hanging Plant Box—A Pedestal Box—A Trellis 
—A Red-Cross Wren House—Another Wren House—A 
Bluebird House—A Woodpecker House—A Concrete Bird 
Bath—A Pedestal Bird Bath. 

We make plant boxes, trellises, bird bouses and 
bird baths for home, and our school boards give 
more attention each year to beautifying the school 
grounds. Are there not possibilities of adding to 
the beauty of our churches and lawns? I believe 
that you might contribute your share to the general 
improvement by making garden accessories. 

A PLANT BOX 

A well designed, carefully made plant box, suit¬ 
ably planted, and regularly tended gives a charm to 
any window-sill or balustrade. 

The depth of a box need not be more than 6 inches, 
and should not be more than 7 inches, because of the 
amount of earth required for filling. The width and 
length will be determined by the position the box is 
to occupy. 

The box shown in Figure 106 is made like any box 
except that its bottom is set between the sides and 
ends instead of being nailed to the edges of the side 

84 


85 


FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 

and end boards (Fig. 107). When the parts have 
been assembled, cut eight brackets by the pattern of 
Figure 108, and nail a pair of them to each corner 
as shown in Figure 106. 

A Liner is unnecessary for an outdoor box, unless 
the box is placed where leaking water might stain 



Fig. io6. a plant box for window or balustrade 
Fig. 107. cross-section of box 
Fig. 108. PATTERN FOR CORNER BRACKET 


the building. In that case, it is best to take the 
box to a tinshop and have a liner made of galvanized 
iron, or, if you know how to solder, you can do the 
work yourself. The upper edges of the liner should 
be bent out to form a rim that will lap onto the 
edges of the sides and ends of the box. 

When a liner is used, care must be taken not to 
give the plants too much water, unless a pet-cock is 


















86 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


soldered to the bottom of the liner through which 
to draw off surplus water; because standing water 
in a tight box will sour and harm the plant roots. 

Drainage. Some florists bore holes for drainage 
in wooden boxes, making them about % inch in di¬ 
ameter, and providing one for every 8 square inches 



Fig. no Fig. 109 


Fig. 109. A HANGING PLANT BOX 
Fig. iio. pattern for corner bracket 

of bottom area. Others contend that they are un¬ 
necessary as the box will take care of surplus water. 

Finishing. Plant boxes may be stained or painted. 
Wood stain may be purchased in various colors. 
Creosote shingle stain is good for the purpose. You 
can make up a stain of oil-paint thinned with tur¬ 
pentine and boiled linseed-oil. If you paint the 
boxes, apply two coats. White, green and brown 
are the colors generally used for plant boxes. 







FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 


87 


A HANGING PLANT BOX 

The square hanging box shown in Figure 109 is 
made in the same way as the long box, but the corner 
brackets are a trifle larger. Figure 110 is a pattern 
for the brackets. 

Screw four long screw-eyes into the top edges of 
the box, at the corners, and attach lengths of jack- 
chain to them for hangers. 

A PEDESTAL BOX 

Omitting the chain hangers, the hanging box be¬ 
comes an attractive pedestal box, the projecting 
corner brackets forming feet for it to stand on. 

A TRELLIS 

The fan-shaped trellis in Figure 111 may have as 
many fingers as you wish. The fingers are all part 
of one piece of board, separated by three dowel- 
sticks. Figure 112 gives dimensions for the board 
required for a four-finger trellis of the size shown, 
also the location for holes for the dowel-stick separa¬ 
tors. Use dowel-sticks %6 inch in diameter for 
separators. Bore the holes through the piece, edge¬ 
wise, before ripping the fingers apart. With the 
fingers separated slip separators A, B and C through 
the holes (Fig. 113). Pull the fingers apart, two at 
a time, and nail them to separator A, first, with a 
distance of 2 inches separating them (Fig. 114), 
then nail them to separator B leaving 4% inches be- 



\ i 

•j 

Fig. hi 





Fig. 114 


FlG. III. A FAN-SHAPED TRELLIS 
Fig. 112. cut a strip of wood like this 
Fig. 113. RUN dowel-sticks through the strip like this 
Fig. 114. then spread the fingers and fasten them to the dowels 























FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 89 

tween the fingers, then to separator C leaving 5% 
inches between. With careful bending and nailing, 
you will find the work of assembling easy. 

Finishing . Either stain or paint the trellis. 

A RED-CROSS WREN HOUSE 

Birds are Nature’s provision for the destruction 
of insects, for maintaining the balance between in¬ 
sects hatched and insects destroyed. But by per¬ 
mitting the slaughter of certain species of insectivo¬ 
rous birds, we have disturbed this balance and have 
brought about, as a consequence, an annual loss in 
plant life. We cannot bring the birds back in num¬ 
bers but we can make their nesting places safer so 
that a greater percentage of their young may sur¬ 
vive. What better place is there to start our mis¬ 
sionary work for the birds than the church lawn? 
Let us erect at least one house there, a hanging 
house or one supported on a pole. 

A Cross lends itself nicely as a design for a bird- 
house, because the center and each of the four ex¬ 
tensions, separated by partitions, form compart¬ 
ments of equal size (Fig. 115). We must not ex¬ 
pect that each compartment will be occupied, for 
wrens are not chummy birds, and a city lot is not 
large enough for more than one family at a time. 
But the wren raises two broods a season, sometimes 
three, and we might give her the choice of five com¬ 
partments. 

Cutting the Parts . Figures 116 to 120 show pat¬ 
terns for the parts. Eighteen pieces are required 


90 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

for the cross, and dimensions for cutting are given 
on the diagrams. It is best to prepare all parts be¬ 
fore beginning to assemble. The dimensions have 
been worked out for wood %-inch thick. If your 



material is of different thickness, you will have to 
alter the dimensions of the pieces which overlap 
edges of other pieces, to allow for the difference. 
Care must be used in marking out the pieces, and 
when sawing you must cut a trifle outside the lines 
to allow for smoothing up the edges with a plane. 
























91 


FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 

Careful preparation will simplify the work of as¬ 
sembling. 

Doorways. There will be less danger of splitting 
the wood, if you will bore the doorways before cut- 



Fig. 116 


k — 4"—v 

J 

I 

IJH 

T 1 

4| 

1 J 

..1.1 

Fiini 

6 PIECES 

-XI 

T 

1 

4" 

| 

I 

A 

III 

1 B'| 

[•■PIECES] 

I1I1II 1 

4PIECWI/ 


± 

HI 


„ 3" I 


H— 4 "—*i i— 4 f—| 


Fig. 118 Fig. 117 Fig. 120 



I3f- 


Fig. 119 

Figs. 116-120. patterns for parts of the red-cross wren house 


ting the pieces. Doorways for wrens should be %- 
inch in diameter. This is plenty big enough, and it 
is best not to make larger openings because they will 
permit sparrows to enter. Bore a %-inch hole 






























92 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

through the center of each piece that is to have a 
doorway, in which to fasten a perch-stick, then lo¬ 
cate the center of the doorway 1 inch above the 
center of the perch-stick hole. 

Assembling the Parts . Use 1-inch finishing-nails 
for nailing together the parts. In placing and driv¬ 
ing the nails, bear two things in mind—to place them 
far enough from the corners to avoid splitting the 
edges, and to drive the nails straight so they will not 
break through the side surfaces of the blocks. 

Assemble the two side extensions of the cross, 
first, as shown in Figure 122. Then nail vertical 
pieces A to them and nail a pair of the blocks B to 
the ends of pieces A. This will give you the frame¬ 
work shown in Figure 121. Be careful to locate the 
side extensions of the cross in the exact center of 
the length of pieces A; also, to get all corners square. 

The back of the house is enclosed by one of the 
long pieces D (Fig. 124), and two of the short pieces 
E (Fig. 126). Their positions are indicated in Fig¬ 
ure 121. The two remaining blocks E (Fig. 125) 
enclose the front of the top and bottom compart¬ 
ments (Fig. 121). The remaining long piece D 
encloses the front of the center and side extension 
compartments (Fig. 123). To this piece are attached 
two of the blocks C, to partition off the top and bot¬ 
tom compartments from the center one. Screw this 
piece in place so that you can remove it easily in the 
Spring to clear out the old nests. 

Finishing . As a wood preservative, give the in¬ 
side of the compartments a coat of paint. Paint the 
outside of the cross with two coats of red paint. 


FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 


93 


Fig. 125 



Fig. 123 


Figs. 121-126. diagrams showing assembling of wren house 





























































































9 * CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

After the first coat has dried, putty all joints and 
nail-holes. 

Hangers. Drive a screw-eye into each side of the 
top compartment, and attach wire hangers. You 
may hang the wren house from a branch or strap it 
to a tree trunk. 


ANOTHER WREN HOUSE 

The wren house illustrated in Figure 127 may he 
hung or supported upon a post. 

The Parts . Figure 128 shows a cross-section of 
the wren house, with the parts lettered the same as 
the patterns of Figures 131 to 134. Cut end pieces 
A first. Opposite edges must be symmetrical. The 
most accurate way of laying them out is to draw a 
center-line as shown, then lay out one-half of the 
pattern to the left of the center-line, trace the out¬ 
line upon a piece of thin paper, turn the paper over, 
and trace off the outline to the right of the center- 
line. When you have marked out the end correctly, 
tack it with small nails to the board out of which 
the other end is to be cut, and cut the two pieces at 
one time. Saw carefully, close to the outline. 
Smooth up the edges with a plane and sandpaper. 
If you haven’t a bit with which to bore the doorway, 
cut the hole with your jack-knife. 

Assembling. Floor board C (Fig. 128) fits be¬ 
tween the end pieces; sides B fit between the ends, 
and. their top and bottom edges are beveled to fit 
against the floor and roof boards. Nail one side 
board in place, and fasten the other with buttons so 


FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 


95 



Fig. 127. ANOTHER WREN HOUSE 
Fig. 128. CROSS-SECTION OF the wren house 
Fig. 129. A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 
Fig. 130. A WOODPECKER HOUSE 
































































96 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

it can be removed for cleaning the house. Make the 
buttons out of tin cut from a can (Fig. 135), and 
pivot to the edges of the end pieces with brads, as 
shown in Figure 127. To keep the side from push¬ 
ing in too far, tack a pair of stop strips to the inner 
face of end pieces A (F, Fig. 128). Roof boards D 
and E are of equal length (Fig. 134), but board E is 
narrower to allow for the lapping of board D. 

Hanger . A wire hanger can be run through holes 
bored through the gables of the house (Fig. 127). 

A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 

The bluebird 'house shown in Figure 129 is built 
like the wren house in Figure 127, but its entrance 
is 1% inches in’diameter. You can locate the en¬ 
trance either in one side, as shown, or in one end. 

Spires for the roof may be whittled out of sticks 
(Fig. 136), or handles of old paint brushes <may be 
used. 

A Pipe Support . Bluebird houses should be sup¬ 
ported on fixed brackets or posts, so they will .not 
swing. Figure 129 shows a support made of iron 
pipe with a floor flange on the upper end that is 
screwed to the bottom of the house. If you can get 
sand, cement and stone, set the pipe in concrete. 
Bluebird houses should be placed between 6 and 10 
feet above the ground. 

A WOODPECKER HOUSE 

A woodpecker house must correspond as nearly as 
possible to the favorite hollow-tree-trunk nesting 


FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 


97 


Fig. 131 



Fig. 132 


Fig. 133 


Figs. 131-134. patterns for parts of wren and bluebird houses 
Fig. 135. catch for removable side of houses 
Fig. 136. spire for bluebird house 
Fig. 137. pattern for front and back of woodpecker house 












































98 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


place of the woodpecker family; therefore it must be 
a long house. Its floor must be 16 inches below the 
doorway, and the diameter of the opening must be 
2% inches. 




Fig. 138. A CONCRETE BIRD BATH 
Fig. 139. FORM FOR CASTING BIRD BATH 


The Parts. Figure 137 shows a pattern for the 
front and back walls. Make the side walls 7 inches 
wide. I am going to let you work out the sizes for 
the other pieces. The floor should be fitted between 
the walls, and be held with screws so it can be re¬ 
moved for Spring house-cleaning. 














FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 


99 


A CONCRETE BIRD BATH 

Making things of concrete is not as difficult as you 
may think, and the work is lots of fun. The bird 



Fig. 140 




Fig. 142 


Fig. 140. side of form 

Fig. 141. FORM WITH TIN BASIN IN POSITION FOR CASTING BATH 
Fig. 142. CROSS-SECTION OF form with concrete poured 


bath in Figure 138 is one of the simplest pieces that 
you can cast. This bath is designed to be set into 
the ground. Wouldn’t one look well on the church 
lawn? You can purchase cement, sand and stone at 






















100 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


almost any lumber yard; and when only a small 
quantity is desired it is often possible to obtain it 
from a building contractor in the neighborhood. 
Boards are needed for forms to cast the concrete in 
and usually you can pick up what is needed close at 
hand. Old boards will do, provided one face is good 
enough to present a good casting surface. Box 
boards, except end pieces, are not thick enough for 
the purpose. 

The Form for casting the bath is shown in Figure 
139. By lapping the ends of the boards in the man¬ 
ner shown, you can cut the four pieces of equal 
length. The nails will be driven through only one 
end of each board (Figs. 139 and 140). 

The basin of the bath is formed over a wash-basin 
(Fig. 141). As the basin will not be injured, one 
can be borrowed for the work. If you use a basin 
that measures 12 inches across, 14 inches will be 
large enough for the inside of the form. 

The Mixture . The correct mixture for the con¬ 
crete is 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand, to 5 parts 
of stone. Mix the sand and cement together, first, 
then add the stone and mix it thoroughly, after 
which, add enough water to make a fairly sloppy 
mixture. 

Casting. Spread a newspaper upon a cement sur¬ 
face, throw sand in the center, and invert the basin 
over the sand. The sand should fill the basin to keep 
it from denting under the weight of the concrete. 
Center the form over the basin (Fig. 141). Then 
shovel the concrete into the form and tamp it down 
around the basin. Slip a knife around the edges of 


FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 101 

the form to let the thin cement grout run down and 
coat the sides of the casting. Smooth off the con¬ 
crete even with the top of the form, and allow it to 
set for a couple of days before disturbing. 

Be careful not to break the green concrete, in re¬ 
moving the form boards. If there are any holes in 
the casting, mix enough sand and cement with water 
to point up the surface. 


A PEDESTAL BIRD BATH 

The pedestal bath shown in Figure 143 will give 
birds protection from cats, and it is more ornamen¬ 
tal for the lawn than the bath just described. 

The pedestal is quite as simple to cast as the basin. 
There must be a concrete footing 30 to 36 inches 
deep to support the base. On top of the base the 
pedestal is cast, and on the pedestal the basin. Fig¬ 
ure 144 shows a cross-section of the basin, pedestal 
and base. 

The Footing requires no form. Dig a hole with a 
post-hole auger, if you can borrow one. Fill it with 
concrete to within 2 inches of the surface. Drive a 
piece of pipe or iron rod into the concrete for a tie- 
rod. 

The Base must have a form of the shape shown in 
Figure 145. Cast it in place over the footing, if you 
can; if not, cast a hole in the bottom of the block to 
receive the footing tie-rod. Drive a short piece of 
pipe or rod into the block to tie the base and pedestal 
together. 

The Pedestal Form is a square box built as shown 


102 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


in Figure 146. Notice that the sides are made of 
boards of equal width, with one edge of each board 
overlapping the edge of one adjacent hoard. You 
mil see by Figure 143 that there is a square cham 
fer in each corner of the pedestal. These are pro* 




Fig. 144 


Fig. 143. A PEDESTAL BIRD RATH 
Fig. 144. CROSS-SECTION OF bird bath pedestal and footing 


vided for in the form by fastening pieces 2 inches 
square in the corners, as shown in Figures 146 and 
147. One side of the box is shown broken away so 
the position of the corner posts may be seen. It is 
best to drive the nails that hold the sides of the 
form only part way in, so the nail heads can be 
gripped with the hammer for withdrawing, after 











FOR THE CHURCH GROUNDS 103 

the casting has set. This will save prying the boards 
apart, which is hard to do without damaging the con¬ 
crete surfaces. 

Casting . Unless great care is taken in pouring 
the concrete in the form for the pedestal, the sur- 



FlG. I45. FORM FOR BASE 
Fig. 146. FORM FOR PEDESTAL 
Fig. 147. CROSS-SECTION OF form and post 


faces will be full of holes, the stone of the mixture 
will be exposed, and the edges will not be sharply 
defined. The grout should be allowed to run down 
the sides of the form to fill all interstices. This is 
best done by pouring a small quantity of the mixture 
at a time, and working this down around the edges 
and tamping it. 























104 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

The Basin is cast in the same size form as that 
used for the bird bath shown in Figure 138. In the 
center of the bottom of the block, a piece of iron pipe 
should be cast, by which to anchor the basin to the 
pedestal. Set the basin in place upon the pedestal 
as soon as you have poured the concrete in the 
pedestal form and tamped it. 


Chapter VIII 

BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS 
AND CASES 

A Book-Trough—Book-Ends—A Wall-Rack—A Rack for Dodg¬ 
ers, Programs or Mail—A Magazine-Rack—A Thomas 
Bailey Aldrich Bookrack—Another Form of Bookrack—A 
Bookcase with a Curtained Front. 

The requirements of Sunday schools for the care 
of books are varied, so an assortment of designs is 
presented in this chapter. The small troughs, ends 
and racks are intended for table use,*the bookracks 
and bookcases for the school library. Other de¬ 
signs will be found in “Home Handicraft for Boys.” 

A BOOK-TROUGH 

A book-trough like that shown in Figure 148 can 
be of any length you wish to make it, but 10 inches 
between ends will accommodate half a dozen books, 
and is the usual length of a small trough. 

Figure 149 shows an end view of the rack, with 
the ends marked C, and the rack members marked 
A and B. Figures 150 and 151 are patterns of parts 
A and B, and Figure 152 of end C. Dotted lines in 
Figure 149 indicate how A overlaps the edge of B; 
also, the position of the two in relation to end pieces 
105 


106 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


C. Nail the parts together with finishing-nails 1% 
inches long. 

A Decorative Design on the trough ends, like that 
shown in Figure 152, may be punched into the wood 



Fig. 148. A BOOK-TROUGH 


with the point of a nail or a nail-set, after you have 
laid it out carefully with a pencil and ruler. You 
will find it easy to apply the given design. 

Enameling. There are a number of ways to finish 
the wood of the trough. One good way is to use 
bright enamel. Enamel paint can be purchased at 
the paint store in 2-oz. cans, which is a sufficient 
quantity. An attractive combination of colors for 
the trough is blue with the pattern done in red. 











BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 107 


BOOK-ENDS 

The book-ends shown in Figure 153 are made of 



Fig. 152 


Fig. 149. ASSEMBLE THE PARTS IN THIS WAY 
Figs. 150 and 151. patterns of rack strips 
Fig. 152. PATTERN OF END BLOCKS 

galvanized iron. A pattern for cutting the pieces 
is shown in Figure 154. If you have a pair of tin- 






























108 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

snips, yon can cut them yourself; if not, make a card¬ 
board pattern, take it to a tinsmith, and ask him to 
cut pieces like it. When the pieces are cut, bend 
them where indicated. The bends must be at right 
angles. Test them with a square. Smooth the edges 
with a file. 

Finishmg. To finish the book-ends, first describe 
a circle 3% inches in diameter upon the outside face, 
and lay out a conventional design within the circle 
similar to that shown in Figure 156. Use enamel 
paint in several colors for decorating. A good com¬ 
bination is dark blue for the body of the book-ends, 
black for the design background, and yellow and red 
for the flower petals. To keep the metal bases from 



scratching the surfaces they are placed upon, cover 
them with felt or broadcloth, gluing this to the metal* 
























BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 109 



Fig. 154 


Fig. 156 Fig. 155 

Fig. 154. PATTERN FOR CUTTING THE METAL BOOK-ENDS 
Fig. 155. BEND THEM LIKE THIS 
Fig. 156. A SUGGESTION FOR DECORATION 















































































































110 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


A WALL-RACK 

The rack shown in Figure 157 is not as elaborate 
to make as you might imagine. The back is con¬ 
structed of l-by-2 strips, and consists of a pair of 



Fig. 157. A WALL-RACK 


uprights (A, Fig. 158), two horizontal connecting 
bars (B, Fig. 159), and a short crosspiece (C, Fig. 
160). As you will see by the diagrams these strips 


Fig. 160 



are notched.so they will interlock with their surfaces 
flush. 

The rack is made of two end pieces of the size of 


















BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 111 

D (Fig. 161), a bottom strip of the width of the end 
pieces and of the correct length to fit between them 
(E, Fig. 161), and two face strips (F). 

After assembling the rack, and applying stain or 
paint, drive screw-eyes into uprights A for hanger 
chains or wall hooks. 



Fig. 162. A RACK FOR DODGERS, PROGRAMS, OR MAIL 


A RACK FOR DODGERS, PROGRAMS, OR MAIL 

Though this isn’t for hooks, it is probably best in¬ 
cluded with the bookracks. It is a good holder for 
dodgers of all kinds advertising church activities, 
programs and pamphlets for distribution, and for 
mail. Several of these racks might be used advan¬ 
tageously in various departments of the church. 

The completed rack is shown in Fig. 162. Patterns 
for the back (A), sides (B), bottom (C), and front 





























112 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


strips (D) are given in Figures 163 to 166. Wood 
%-inch thick is best for a rack of this size. Box 
boards will do. There is not much work to cutting 



Fig. 165 Fig. 166 

Figs. 163-166. patterns for parts of rack for dodgers 


out the parts, and Figure 162 shows how to assemble 
them. 

Stain, Paint or Enamel the rack, after sandpaper¬ 
ing all surfaces and edges with No. 00 sandpaper, 
then screw a pair of screw-eyes into the top of the 
back board for hangers. 

























BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 113 


A MAGAZINE-RACK 

If the church has a reading-room, there should be 
a rack like that shown in Figure 167 for current 
periodicals, because it displays them so that all titles 
are visible. The rack illustrated will probably care 



for all of the magazines that will be subscribed to by 
the librarian, but the plan is elastic and either a 
larger or a smaller rack may be built, according to 
requirements. For a small number of periodicals, 
a small rack can be built to stand upon a table or 
hang upon a wall. 

Material . The rack can be built of pine, cypress, 












114 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


redwood, oak, or any other wood desired. The furni¬ 
ture of the room in which it is to be used should be 
a factor in deciding the kind of wood, though it is 
possible to stain pine in imitation of other woods, 
with prepared wood-stain to be had at paint stores. 




Fig. 168. cross-section of magazine-rack 

Fig. 169. FRONT ELEVATION OF MAGAZINE-RACK 

The Parts are lettered in the cross-section draw¬ 
ing of Figure 168, and the front elevation of Figure 
169. Cut end stringers A from %-inch or %-inch 
boards 6 inches wide. Rip a piece of the same width 
in half for the upright supports B. Partitions D 
should be of thinner stock—%-inch boards 8 inches 
wide, if you can get them. For the partition sepa¬ 
rators E (Fig. 168) use strips %-inch square. Cut 
the base braces C and F from a 2-by-4. 




























BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 115 

Lay out an end stringer carefully by the detail of 
Figure 170, cut it out and use it for a pattern to 
mark around for the second piece. The base brace 
blocks C have notched ends (Fig. 171). The way to 
mark the cuts correctly is to place the piece of 2-by- 
4 against the stringer end and upright B, and scribe 
lines across the piece at the points of contact. Par¬ 
titions D may be 7% inches wide, or of whatever 



Fig. 170 



Fig. 171 

FlG. 170. DETAIL OF STRINGERS FOR MAGAZINE-RACK 
FlG. 171. DETAIL OF BASE BRACES 

width your 8-inch boards happen to be. The length 
is indicated in Figure 169. 

Assembling . The easiest way to assemble the 
partitions and stringers is to nail a partition board 
to each of the separator strips E, then to scribe 
a line on the back of each board, from end to end, 4 
inches above the bottom edge (Fig. 168), which will 
give the height at which to fasten each partition 
board to the separator strip back of it. When you 
have carefully assembled the partitions in this man¬ 
ner, stand them on end upon one stringer, then upon 






116 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


the other stringer, mark off accurately where the 
ends should come in relation to the edges of the 
stringers, and nail the stringers to them. Of course, 
if you do not locate the ends exactly on each stringer, 
there will be a twist to the rack and you will have to 
knock off one stringer and renail it. 

Complete the assembling by fastening uprights B 
to the under edge of stringers A, fastening base 
braces C to the lower ends of stringers A and up¬ 
rights B, and fastening brace F between base braces 
C. 

Finish the magazine-rack in whatever way the 
librarian suggests. Before you apply the stain, paint 
or shellac, rub down all surfaces with sandpaper. It 
is best to round off the upper edges of the partitions 
to relieve them of sharpness. This can be done with 
sandpaper. 

A THOMAS BAILEY ALDRICH BOOKRACK 

In the Nutter House at Portsmouth, New Hamp¬ 
shire, memorial to Thomas Bailey Aldrich, hangs a 
bookcase which was one of this noted author’s prized 
possessions. The bookcase has been made famous 
by “The Story of a Bad Boy.” If you have read 
this book you will remember the bookcase. It will be 
an appropriate rack for the Sunday school library, 
so I am showing an illustration of it in Figure 172, 
and in Figures 173 to 176 working-drawings made 
from the original bookcase through the courtesy of 
Mrs. Aldrich. 

Material . This bookcase is of plain design, and 


BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 117 

its construction is as simple as it looks. All of its 
parts are butt-jointed. White-pine or yellow-pine, 



whitewood, cypress, redwood, oak, chestnut, gum- 
wood, walnut or mahogany are woods which you can 


















































118 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

work easily. Five-eighths inch is thick enough. A 
board ripped to 8% inches wide will be needed for 
the end pieces, a board ripped to 7 inches wide for 
two shelves, and a 5-inch piece for a third shelf. 
The shelves can be fastened to the end pieces with 
finishing-nails, or round-head screws. Screws are 
preferable, because they hold better than nails, and 
their round heads make a neat appearance. Number 
9 round-head blued screws 1% inches long should be 
used. 

The Parts. Figure 173 shows an end view of the 
bookcase, with dimensions for assembling the 
shelves. The end pieces (A) are the first pieces to 
lay out (Fig. 173). First, mark off 26 inches for the 
length. Then lay off the starting and finishing 
points of the curves. Draw the curves as nearly like 
those upon the pattern as possible, and connect with 
a slightly curved line, which will give you the line 
for the front edge of the end piece. The curve is so 
slight that it is a good plan to draw a straight line 
as indicated in Figure 173, then draw the curved line 
inside it. 

Cut one end piece and smooth up its edges with a 
plane and sandpaper, then use this as a pattern to 
mark around, to lay out the second piece. 

The shelves are straight pieces. Straight means 
absolutely straight, with square corners and edges. 
If you do not cut them correctly, you cannot hope to 
obtain a square piece of work, and unless the ends 
of the shelf boards fit squarely against the end 
pieces, there will be no shoulder to the joints, and 
consequently no rigidity. 


BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 119 




Fig. 173. PATTERN FOR END OF RACK, SHOWING POSITIONS OF SHELVES 

Figs. 174-176. patterns for shelves 



































120 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


Assembling. When all parts have been cut, mark 
upon the end pieces the positions for the shelves, as 
indicated by dotted lines in Figure 173 ; also, posi- 



FlG. 177. ANOTHER FORM OF BOOKRACK. THIS 
IS AN ELASTIC DESIGN. MORE SHELVES MAY 
BE INCLUDED, AND FOR VOLUMES OF THE 
SIZE OF NOVELS INCHES IS ENOUGH 

SPACE TO LEAVE BETWEEN SHELVES 


tions for three screw-holes for each shelf. Drill the 
screw-holes a trifle larger than the screws. Then the 
screws will draw up the shelves close to the end 
pieces. 






























BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 121 

Ecmgers . Note the hole through the end pieces 
near the top. This is for a wire or rope hanger, to 
hang the bookcase from nails or from a picture¬ 
molding. The bookrack can be supported upon 
brackets, instead, or can be stood upon the floor. 


ANOTHER FORM OF BOOKRACK 

Open-shelf bookcases or bookracks, like the one 
shown in Figure 177, can be built quickly, require 
little material, and can have as many shelves as are 
needed to take care of the school’s library; or sev¬ 
eral units may be built and placed side by side. For 
books of the dimensions generally used for novels, 
8% inches is sufficient space to leave between 
shelves. These are matters for your librarian to 
decide. 

Material for the bookcase in Figure 177 can be any 
one of the woods suggested for the other bookrack. 
The stock should be %-inch thick, and 8 inches is 
wide enough for the shelves. Buy No. 9 round-head, 
blued screws, 1% inches long for assembling. 

Cutting the Parts of this case is easy because all 
ends are straight. The dimensions for end strips A 
are given in Figure 178, the length for shelves B is 
given in Figure 179. 

Assembling . When the pieces have been cut, mark 
the positions for the shelves on the end strips. Then 
mark the places for the screws, two to a shelf, and 
drill holes through the strips at these points. These 
holes should be a trifle larger than the shank of the 
screws. It will be easier to drive home the screws if 


m CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

you first drill holes in the ends of the shelves. These 
holes should be smaller than the screws. 

Without a back to make this bookcase rigid, it 



Figs. 178 and 179. side and front elevations of bookrack 

will become rickety in time, unless it be fastened to 
a wall, or stood in a corner where the walls will 
support it. If neither of these schemes is feasible, 

























Fig. 180. a bookcase with a curtained front 

[Facing page 122 









































BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 123 

fasten a pair of diagonal braces across the back as 
shown in Figure 177. It is not necessary to run 
these higher than the third shelf. Screw them to 
each of the shelves that they cross, with two screws 
to a shelf. 

A BOOKCASE WITH A CUBTAINED FKONT 

For dust-tight bookcases, nothing comes nearer 
to perfection than the so-called sectional bookcases 
of approved makes. But these are expensive pieces 
of equipment, and often out of the question. Built-in 
cases with glass doors fitted by one experienced in 
cabinet-making are to be recommended as the next in 
order; home-made cases with wallboard paneled 
doors, like the filing-cabinet in Figure 193, Chapter 
IX, though probably not as tight, will keep out most 
of the dust. Then there is the type of open-front 
bookcase with rod and curtains, not tight by any 
means, but better than an open-shelf bookrack. A 
bookcase of the last mentioned type is shown in the 
photograph of Figure 180. Working details of its 
construction are shown in the end elevation of Fig¬ 
ure 181, and the front elevation of Figure 182. 

The Material used for the bookcase may be any 
of the kinds of wood suggested for the racks previ¬ 
ously described. The ends of the case, and the 
shelves, should be cut from 10-inch boards; the top 
of the case should be cut from a 12-inch board. The 
back of the case should be enclosed. A large sheet 
of wallboard is better than boards for the purpose. 

Cutting the Parts and Assembling should be done 


124 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


as described for the bookracks. Use three screws 
for each shelf-end. When the ends, shelves, and 
top have been assembled, test the angles to make 



Fig. 181 


: -U 






i Jo ht 


B 


■ t . . 

1 



J 

z!* 

WALLBOARD BACK 


1 *. 

... . r B 


" t 

t i 



T. 

15 * 

.... f B 

A—* 

t 

| 



. 1 

T 



19* 

r B - 



3 - 0 "— 


Fig. 182 




FlG. l8l. END ELEVATION OF BOOKCASE SHOWN IN PHOTOGRAPH OF 
FIGURE l 80 

Fig. 182. FRONT ELEVATION 


sure that they are right angles. Then glue the wall- 
board backing to the rear edges of the end pieces 
and shelves, and drive in nails to reenforce the glue. 
Finishing. A number of suggestions have been 

































BOOK TROUGHS, ENDS, RACKS AND CASES 125 

given on preceding pages for finishing wood. The 
kind of finish to use should be determined by the 
furniture of the room in which the article is to be 
kept. 

If you are going to stain the wood, you can either 
buy ready-prepared stain of the color and shade de¬ 
sired or you can mix up a home-made stain of oil- 
paint, boiled linseed-oil, and turpentine. After 
staining a surface and rubbing off the surplus stain, 
apply a coat of shellac to set it. After that has 
dried, apply two coats of flat varnish or a coat of 
wax. 

Open-grained woods, such as oak, are generally 
“filled”; that is to say, their grain is filled with pre¬ 
pared wood-filler. This is necessary for a highly 
polished varnished or enameled surface, but can be 
omitted from surfaces to be waxed. 

Surfaces to be painted should be given at least two 
coats of paint; three coats are better. If enamel 
paint is to be used, first apply a coat of flat paint— 
this should be paint without linseed-oil. If there is 
any puttying to be done, do it after the first coat of 
paint has been applied; it will hold better then. 


Chapter IX 

FILING-CASES AND CABINETS 


A Letter-Size Filing-Cabinet—A Filing-Case—A Cabinet for 
Pamphlets and Pictures. 

Every Sunday school needs files of several kinds 
in which to keep correspondence, printing, station¬ 
ery, pamphlets, lesson pictures and various papers 
related to its activities. Some Sunday schools have 
filing-cabinets, but the stock sizes of filing equipment 
do not answer every purpose, so the filing systems 
are not always as efficient as they might be. On this 
and following pages are several plans for easily 
made cases and cabinets that will meet many needs 
of the school. An advantage of home-made cabinets, 
besides the saving in cost, is that the given dimen¬ 
sions can be altered if need be to meet any special 
requirements. 

A LETTEK-SIZE FILING-CABINET 

The filing-cabinet in Figure 183 is made of a box 
obtained at a paint store, but probably you can get 
one quite as strong at your grocery. The inside 
measurements of the cabinet are: width 12 inches, 
depth 10% inches, length 22% inches. The length 
may be varied, but the specified width and depth 
should be used because they are standard measure- 
126 



*r 




FlG. 183 . A LETTER-SIZE FILING-CABINET 

[Facing page 126 

























FILING-CASES AND CABINETS 127 

ments, and index cards and folders can be bought 
to fit. 



Fig. 188 Fig. 187 Fig. 184 

Fig. 184. box for filing-cabinet 
Fig. 185. READY FOR THE HINGED TOP 
Fig. 186. THE HINGED TOP 
Fig. 187. LEG FOR CABINET 
Fig. 188. FILE CARDS 


Altering the Box. Probably your box will require 
alteration, just as mine did. Dotted lines in Figure 
184 indicate how my box was cut. The desired width 











































128 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


was marked off on the box ends, then the ends 
were cut along these lines, the side boards removed 
were renailed to the altered box ends, and the 
bottom boards were trimmed flush with the box 
side. 

The pair of battens A upon the box ends must be 
left for reenforcement. Fit strip B (Fig. 185) be¬ 
tween their upper ends, and strip C between their 
lower ends, thus forming a panel. Strip B should 
be wider than strips A, and strip C should be nar¬ 
rower, so when the leg strips are nailed to the box 
corners, and a strip of equal width is fastened be¬ 
tween their upper ends, the exposed margins of 
strips A, B, and C will be equal (Fig. 183). 

The Legs are built up of two strips (D and E, Fig. 
187). These may be laths planed smooth. Cut them 
26 or 28 inches long so that the cabinet will stand 
about desk high. Make strip E narrower than strip 
D to allow for the thickness of the over-lapping 
edge. 

The Cabinet Top. Strip F, nailed across the back 
of the box (Fig. 185) is the hinge-strip to which the 
cabinet lid is hinged. The notches on the inside 
edge receive the hinges. Cut strip F 4 inches wide, 
and of the right length to project V 2 inch beyond the 
faces of the leg strips. Figure 186 shows the lid. 
It can be made of several boards, depending on the 
width of the material at hand. Fasten together the 
boards (G, Fig. 186) with the pair of battens H, 
putting on the battens with screws. It is more of a 
trick to set hinges into the edges of work than to put 
them upon the surface. The notches must be cut ac- 


FILING-CASES AND CABINETS 129 

curately, and the screw-holes must be located cor¬ 
rectly, or the lid will not shut tight. 

Index Cards . Figure 188 shows cards of standard 



Fig. 189 


Figs. 189 and 190. a filing-case 
Fig. 191. saw through box ends on lines a 

Fig. 192. THE SMALLER PART OF THE BOX BECOMES THE COVER 

size. The projecting index tabs are laid out in five 
positions. If you make a set of the cards for your 
cabinet, cut five of each position. Cut them out of 




































ISO CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


light-weight cardboard. Letter the tabs with the let¬ 
ters of the alphabet, or with subject titles. Ready- 
made cards can be bought at one cent each. 

Finishing. When the filing-cabinet has been com¬ 
pleted, stain or paint the wood. Let the furniture 
of the room in which the cabinet is to stand decide 
the finish. 


A FILING-CASE 

The filing-case shown in Figures 189 and 190 is of 
handy form for the filing of lesson pictures. It can 
be made of a grocery box cut down to the exact size 
needed. 

Saw down the ends of the box on a diagonal line, 
as indicated by the lines A in Figure 191, and remove 
the box side to which the small triangular pieces are 
attached. This will give you the two parts shown in 
Fig. 192. Nail the box-cover boards to these sec¬ 
tions, in their original positions, and hinge the 
smaller section to the larger one in the manner 
shown in Figure 189, for the lid. 

A pair of handles screwed to the box ends, and a 
couple of coats of paint, will finish the outside of the 
cabinet. The inside may be partitioned into com¬ 
partments with wallboard. 


A CABINET FOR PAMPHLETS AND PICTURES 

The cabinet shown in Figure 193 was designed as 
a filing-case for pamphlets and pictures with the 
upper portion arranged for Sunday school lesson 


FILING-CASES AND CABINETS 1S1 

quarterlies, and the lower portion for lesson pic¬ 
tures. The upper compartments will hold the first, 



FlG. 193. A FILING-CABINET FOR PAMPHLETS AND PICTURES 

second and third year pamphlets of the junior, inter¬ 
mediate and senior departmental graded courses, 



































































132 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

with four quarterly pamphlets filed in each tier of 
compartments. As the beginners and primary series 



Fig. 194 


Fig. 195 


FIG, I94. FRONT ELEVATION OF UNTRIMMED CABINET 
Fig. 195. DETAIL OF GROOVED END 


of quarterlies are larger, it would be best to make a 
separate cabinet for them. 


































































































































































FILING-CASES AND CABINETS 133 

This filing-cabinet will meet the needs of Sunday 
schools that find it economical to save their quarterly 
lesson pamphlet left-overs, for future use. The 
same form of construction may be used for a cabinet 
for other pamphlets, leaflets and single sheets; and 
a cabinet for the primary room will be useful for 
sand-table accessories and other lesson helps. 

The Construction . The pamphlet-picture cabinet 
is made of boards and wallboard. Figure 194 shows 
a front elevation, and Figure 195 gives dimensions 
for end boards A. Cut vertical partition C of the 
same width as sides A, but make partitions E % 6 
inch narrower, to allow for clearance of the wall- 
board door panels. Instead of resting the ends 
of the short wallboard shelves F (Fig. 194) upon 
cleats, which would take up a great deal of valuable 
filing space, groove end boards A, and the interme¬ 
diate vertical partitions C and E, to receive the shelf 
ends, as shown in Figure 196. The spacing of the 
grooves is marked in Figure 195. Make their width 
such that the wallboard shelves will fit snugly in 
them, and cut them % inch deep. Cut the sides of 
the grooves with a saw, and split out the wood be¬ 
tween the “kerfs,” or slots, with a %-inch chisel. 
Mark out and cut the grooves carefully. 

Assembling. From Figures 194 and 195 you can 
get the lengths for boards B and D, and vertical 
boards C and E. Assemble these pieces and side 
pieces A as shown in Figure 194, then cut a piece of 
wallboard of the right size for a back, and tack it to 
the framework. Before fastening the back, test all 
corners of the framework to make sure that they are 


184 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


square. Next, cut shelves F of the same width as 
vertical partitions E, coat their ends and rear edge 
with glue, and slip them into the grooves cut for 
them. If the vertical boards have been spaced equi- 
distantly, the shelves can be cut of exactly the same 
size. Fasten blocks G to the under side of bottom 
shelf B to make the base solid. If the cabinet is to 


Fig. 196 Fig. 198 Fig. 200 Fig. 199 




Fig. 197 


Fig. 196. GROOVE THE partitions to receive the wallboard shelf 

ENDS 

Fig. 197. door with wallboard panel 
Fig. 198. use three hinges like this for each door 
Fig. 199. CUPBOARD latch and latch-pocket 
Fig. 200. CUPBOARD catch and plate 


be mounted upon casters, fasten these to the outer 
two of the three blocks. 

The Front . Figure 193 shows how to complete the 
cabinet with a narrow strip nailed across the front 
and ends of the base, and a cap band nailed across 
the front and ends of the top. Fasten a 3-inch board 
across the front of the cabinet at the top of the bot¬ 
tom compartments, and enclose the space between it 
and the baseboard with a narrow and a wide board, 



FILING-CASES AND CABINETS 135 

nailing the narrow board, and hinging the wide 
board to it for a drop-leaf. 

The Cabinet Boors have frames made of 2-inch 
strips, and wallboard panels (Fig. 197). Tack the 
panels to the frames with carpet tacks. 

Use three pairs of 2-inch brass hinges (Fig. 198) 
for hinging the cabinet doors, and place them on the 
edges of the frames, and sides of the cabinet, as 
shown in Figure 193. Cut away the wood so the 
hinge flaps will set flush with the surface of the 
wood. Fasten a cupboard latch and a latch-pocket 
(Fig. 199) upon the right-hand door, and tack a 
molding to the door, above and below the latch, al¬ 
lowing it to project enough to cover the crack be¬ 
tween the doors when they are shut. Fasten a cup¬ 
board catch of the form shown in Figure 200 to the 
inner face of the left-hand door. Attach a cupboard 
latch and latch-pocket to the drop-leaf of the lower 
compartments. 

Finishing . When the cabinet has been completed, 
paint the outside with two coats of paint. The wall- 
board will require a third coat. The inside of the 
cabinet, with the exception of the front edges of the 
wooden partitions, need not be finished. 


Chapter X 

SCRAPBOOKS 

A Home-Made Scrapbook— Covers—Leaves— Punching— Lacing 

—Screw-Posts—Arranging Clippings—Indexing—An Envel¬ 
ope Scrap-File. 

Keeping a scrapbook becomes a bobby that usually 
lasts through one’s lifetime; and it is a worth-while 
hobby, too, giving one a record of favorite pictures, 
verse, anecdotes, and miscellany which will be pe¬ 
rused with pleasure in later years. 

The scrapbook has its practical use in the church 
and Sunday school also. Your minister will find one 
convenient to hold selections he has clipped for ref¬ 
erence; there should be one in which to paste pro¬ 
grams, dodgers, tickets and other printed matter for 
a record of church and Sunday school activities, and 
your class should have one for its own use. 

A HOME-MADE SCRAPBOOK 

Figure 201 shows a good home-made scrapbook. 

Covers for a scrapbook can be made of heavy card¬ 
board cut from drygoods boxes, but a sheet of wall- 
board or of binder’s board will be better. 

A detail of the front cover is shown in Figure 202. 
After cutting it of the right size, cut a strip 1 inch 
wide from the binding-edge, and then with a piece of 

136 


SCRAPBOOKS 


137 

drilling 3% inches wide hinge the strip to the edge 
you cut it from. Coat the hinge-strip with glue, and 
fold it over the strip of cardboard so its edges will 
lap over the upper and lower surfaces of the cover, 
as shown. It is not necessary to make a hinge for 
the back cover; in fact, the book will be stronger if 


Fig. 202 Fig. 204 Fig. 205 



Fig. 201. A SCRAPBOOK WITH COVERS LACED WITH A SHOE-STRING 
Fig. 202. FRONT COVER AND STUB FOR BINDING-EDGE 
FlG. 203. ARRANGEMENT OF SCRAPS ON THE PAGES 
Fig. 204 . AN INDEX SHEET 
Fig. 205. TAB FOR INDEX 

the back cover is not hinged. Cloth tips should be 
glued upon the cover corners as shown in Figures 
206 and 207. 

Punch three holes through the back cover and the 
hinged strip of the front cover, one near each end 
and one at the center, cutting them with the small 
blade of a knife. These are for laces or posts to run 
through. 



































138 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT; 

The Leaves should be of manila wrapping-paper. 
You can purchase this from a merchant in town, or 
through a printer. The size of the scrapbook pages 
should be regulated, to a certain extent, by the size 
of sheets of paper you buy, to save waste in cutting. 
You can cut the sheets with a knife or scissors, or 
have a printer cut them. The covers should be large 


Fig. 208 



Fig. 206. A SCRAPBOOK WITH COVERS HELD BY SCREW-POSTS 
Fig. 207. DETAIL OF TIP ON COVER CORNERS 
Fig. 208. TELESCOPIC SCREW-POST 
Fig. 209. STOVE-BOLT POST 

enough to project % inch over the leaves. Unless 
the cardboard is heavy, it will be best not to make a 
large book, because large pieces of light-weight card¬ 
board will warp. 

Punching . If you haven’t a punch, place the 
leaves between the covers in their correct position, 
clamp all together with curtain-stretcher clamps, 
and drill holes through them with a 3/16-inch drill. 
You can ask a printer to punch the holes, if you do 
not care to drill them. 





SCRAPBOOKS 


139 


Lacing. You may bind the covers and leaves of 
your scrapbook with a shoe-string (Fig. 201). Run 
it down through the center holes, along the outside 
of the back cover to one end, up through the holes at 
that end, along the front cover to the holes at the 
other end, down through these holes, along the back 
cover to the center holes, up through them, and tie 
the ends in a bowknot. 

Screw-posts will hold the covers and leaves more 
firmly than a lacing. Figure 208 shows a telescopic 
post made for the purpose; Figure 209 shows a 
stove-bolt post. 


ARRANGING CLIPPINGS 

Figure 203 suggests how to arrange clippings on 
a scrapbook page. If an article occupies both sides 
of a clipping, paste it along one margin, as shown. 

INDEXING 

You may not care about indexing your pages, but, 
if you do, Figures 204 and 205 show how to do it 
with tabs of heavy paper, lapping and pasting these 
to both sides of the sheets. 

AN ENVELOPE SCRAP-FILE 

An envelope filing system like that shown in Fig¬ 
ures 210 and 211 is good. Some use it in place of a 
scrapbook. You might make one for your minister 
to keep copies of his sermons, notes, and miscellany 

in. 


140 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


Buy a quire of envelopes 9 , 10 , or 11 inches long, 
punch three holes through the pack along the bottom 
edge, to run a binding lacing through, and use a 




Fig. 211 

Figs. 210 and 21 i. an envelope scrap-file 


shoe-string for a lacing, running it through the holes 
in the manner described for the scrapbook. 

The illustrations suggest covers. If you wish to 
















SCRAPBOOKS 


141 


add these, cut them out of cardboard, making them 
% inch larger than the envelopes all around, and 
hind them with linen or buckram. Fasten a small 
buckle and strap to the opening edges of the covers. 

Letter classifications upon the envelope flaps, or 
rule lines for the captions, if the file is for your min¬ 
ister’s use. 


Chapter XI 

FOB THE SUNDAY SCHOOL CLASS 


A Class Table—A Pedestal—A Class Gavel—A Class Screen— 
A Chair Hat-Rack. 

On the following pages are a number of pieces of 
equipment especially useful to the Sunday school 
class. Additional ideas are presented in other chap¬ 
ters. If you will make some of these things, you will 
start a rivalry in the Sunday school, with each class 
vying with the others to become the best equipped. 


A CLASS TABLE 

There is often a scarcity of small tables in the 
Sunday school room. Each class could use one, and 
I would suggest that if your class is without this 
piece of equipment, you make a small table like that 
shown in Figure 212. This one has a box compart¬ 
ment in its top that can be used for record books, 
gavel, pencil, pen, ink, lesson leaflets, pictures, 
maps and other class material. 

The Box Compartment is made of a box 10 inches 
deep, 14 inches wide and 20 inches long. Eemove 
one side, and nail the cover boards, or other boards, 
to the top (Fig. 213). Nail strips A and B to the 

142 


FOR THE SUNDAY SCHOOL CLASS 


143 


bottom and end boards, as shown in Figure 213, to 
frame the opening for the hinged drop-leaf. 

The Drop-leaf should be one piece of board. Buy 
a pair of 2-inch brass or iron hinges, and attach them 
as shown in Figures 215 and 216, setting them in the 



edge of the drop-leaf board, and in the upper surface 
of strip A. A cupboard spring-latch at the top of 
the drop-leaf, and pieces of brass chain attached to 
the drop-leaf and the box ends, to keep the leaf from 
opening farther than it should, will complete the 
box compartment. 

The Legs are built up of lattice-strips 1% inches 
wide and 27 inches long. Each leg is made of a 



















Fig. 214 



Figs. 213-216. details of the class table 













































FOR THE SUNDAY SCHOOL CLASS 145 

strip of full width (C, Fig. 214), and a strip cut % 
inch narrower (D), the former strip overlapping an 
edge of the latter. Nail the corner strips together 



with finishing-nails, then nail them to the box cor¬ 
ners. 

The Table Top should be made of %-inch boards, 








146 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

and should be large enough to project about IV 2 
inches over the box compartment on all sides. If you 
can have a top glued up at a mill, do so; otherwise, 
make as good a joint as you can, and fasten the 
boards to the box with finishing-nails. 



Finishing. You can finish the table with a wood- 
stain, shellac and varnish, or with enamel paint. 
Two coats of enamel will be required. Putty joints 
and nail-holes between the first and second coats. 

A PEDESTAL 

The pedestal shown in Figure 217 may be used for 
different purposes, including that of a class table. 












FOR THE SUNDAY SCHOOL CLASS 


147 


The cross-section of Figure 218 gives dimensions for 
cutting the parts. 

The Center Post is built up of box boards. Cut 
two strips 3% inches wide by 27 inches long for 
sides A, and two pieces 2% inches wide by 27 inches 
long for sides B (Fig. 219). Nail sides A to the 
edges of sides B, then trim 1 inch from each end of 
the assembled post to make it exactly 25 inches long. 



Fig. 219. DETAIL OF POST 


Be careful in sawing off the ends to make them 
square. 

The Top and Base Boards G (Fig. 218) should he 
centered upon the end of the post, and nailed to the 
edges of side pieces A and B. Nail them to the post 
ends. Cut the top and base boards D and fasten 
them to pieces C, screwing or nailing through pieces 
C into them. To complete the base, cut the corner 
blocks E and nail them to the corners of base board 
D. 

j Finishing. If the wood has a pretty grain, stain 
and wax will give an attractive finish. If you have 
used box boards, it will be better to paint the wood. 


























148 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


A CLASS GAVEL 

If you have wood-turning in manual-training at 
school, you can probably get permission to turn a 
gavel like the one shown in Figure 220. If not, cut 
two pieces from cherry tree branches, one 1% inches 
in diameter (with the bark removed) for the head, 



the other % inch in diameter for the handle. The 
other measurements are given in Figure 221. 

If you must make the gavel without a lathe, ( you 
can cut the grooves in the head very easily with files, 
using a rat-tail file for making the larger grooves 
and a three-cornered file for the smaller grooves. 
Round the ends of the head with a file, also. Bore a 
hole in the head % inch deep, and glue the handle in 
it. 

Finishing . You can put a very nice finish on your 











FOR THE SUNDAY SCHOOL CLASS 149 

cherry-wood gavel, by shellacking it with white shel¬ 
lac, rubbing this down, and waxing; or by shellack¬ 
ing, then applying two coats of varnish. But before 
you apply the finish, rub down the wood with No. 00 
sandpaper to make it very smooth. 



Fig. 222. A CLASS SCREEN AND BLACKBOARD 


A CLASS SCREEN 

Class screens are growing in popularity. There 
are a number of forms in use but probably none 
more satisfactory than that shown in Figure 222 
which is similar to screens designed by my friend, 
Rev. George T. Arnold, for use in his Sunday school. 
By slating the upper third of the screen, on both 
sides, it will serve as a blackboard for two classes. 































































































150 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


This screen serves other purposes, too; it may be 
used as a support for scenery for plays, as a parti¬ 
tion for dressing-rooms, and as a side of a stall or 
booth for bazaars. 



The screen is a large piece of equipment, but as it 
is mounted upon casters it can be moved to one side 
easily and quickly. Of course, the size can be re¬ 
duced if a smaller screen is desired. If several are 
to be built, it is desirable to have them of uniform 
size and shape. You and your chum would not find 


















FOR THE SUNDAY SCHOOL CLASS 151 

it much of an undertaking to build enough screens 
for all classes of your Sunday school. 

The Material . The lettering on the front eleva¬ 
tion (Fig. 223) and the cross-section (Fig. 224) des¬ 



ignates parts of the screen. Corner posts A, runner 
blocks B, and base plate D are 2-by-4s, cap piece H 
is a l-by-4, chalk-rail E is a 2-by-6, base braces C are 
cut out of 2-by-6 inch stuff, moldings I are quarter- 
rounds, and the chalk-rail strips J are lattice-strips. 
All of this stock should be of soft pine, cypress or 









152 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

other light-weight, easily worked wood. Special in¬ 
structions should be given when ordering that the 
pieces be selected for straightness. If they are not 
straight, the screen’s framework will be twisted 
from end to end. 

The body of the screen is made of wallboard. Buy 
a piece 48 inches wide for the lower two-thirds, and 
a piece 24 inches wide for the upper third. As this 



Fig. 225 . CROSS-SECTION OF corner of class screen 

material can be purchased in 7-foot lengths, there 
will be only a few inches waste, which will take care 
of broken corners. 

The Corner Posts. Cut posts A of the length 
given in Figure 223, and cut oft the top corners as 
shown in Figure 224. Cut runner blocks B (Fig. 
224) next, and spike them at their center to the bot¬ 
tom of the posts. Then cut brace blocks C (Fig. 224) 
and nail them to both A and B. 

Tke Connecting Pieces. When the corner posts 
have been prepared, cut base plate D, the chalk-rail 













FOR THE SUNDAY SCHOOL CLASS 


153 


E, and the cap H. Plate D and cap H fit between the 
posts; rail E is notched at each end to fit around the 
posts as shown in the plan of Figure 225, and the 
edges are beveled off at the ends. Best base plate 
D upon runner blocks B, and spike posts A to its 



FlG. 226. A CHAIR HAT-RACK 


ends. Then fasten the 2-by-6 chalk-rail E to the 
posts 4 feet % inch above it, then the l-by-4 cap 
piece H 2 feet % inch above the chalk-rail E. 

The Panels. The quarter-rounds I hold the wall- 
board in place in the screen framework. Cut enough 
pieces of the right lengths with mitered ends, to run 
around the four edges, on both sides of the lower 
















154 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


piece of wallboard. Frame one side of the lower 
opening with four of the strips, nailing them to posts 
A, plate D, and rail E (Fig. 224); then cut the wall- 
board of the right length with a saw or sharp knife, 
set it in place and fasten it with the other four strips. 



The quarter-round molding must be cut accurately 
to make close-fitting miters at the corners; and it 
must be placed so as to fasten the wallboard in the 
exact center of the width of the framework. Pencil 
lines, measured off carefully, should be used as guide 
lines. In the same manner, fasten the upper wall- 
board panel in the framework with two sets*of quar¬ 
ter-round. 
















































155 


FOR THE SUNDAY SCHOOL CLASS 

The ChaUc-rail is finished by nailing lattice-strips 
J to its side edges, setting them..so they will project 
to form ledges, as shown in Figure 224. 

The Casters should be large and ball-bearing (Fig. 
342, Chapter XIX) so they will roll easily. Fasten 
them to the runner blocks B near the ends (Figure 
224). 

Finishing . When the screen has been completed, 
sandpaper all wood surfaces, and round off sharp 
edges. The framework can be stained, shellacked 
and varnished, or stained, shellacked and waxed or 
painted. The lower wallboard panel will require at 
least two coats of paint and three coats will be bet¬ 
ter. 

The Blackboard panel must be given one coat of 
oil-paint then three coats of blackboard slating. 


A CHAIR HAT-RACK 

This rack does away with the necessity of piling 
hats upon a chair; but each chair of the class must 
be provided with a rack, and the class must get their 
own chairs each week, or every chair in the room 
will have to be supplied with a rack; otherwise, the 
scheme will not work. 

A rack can be made quickly of laths planed 
smooth. Figure 226 shows how it rests upon the 
chair-rounds with its corners fitted against the chair- 
legs. Figure 227 shows how the laths are crossed 
and nailed. No measurements are given for the 
rack, because the shape and size will be determined 
by the chair it is made for. It should be so con- 


156 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

structed that when it is slipped into place it will fit 
tightly against the legs. Fasten it by driving a brad 
into each chair-leg just above the rack strips. 

The Finish of the rack should be as nearly like 
that of the chair as possible. 


Chapter XII 

FRAMING PICTURES FOR 
THE SCHOOL ROOM 

Passe Partout Pictures—A Lath Picture-Frame—An Ornate 

Frame. 

We often do without as many pictures as we would 
like to have because of the cost of framing, and many 
fine prints are packed away with the hope that some 
day we can afford to have them framed. While store 
frames are expensive, home-made frames need cost 
little more than the price of the glass, and you can 
make as attractive frames as those you buy, if you 
will do your work carefully. There is generally a 
scarcity of pictures in the Sunday school rooms, and 
this is another instance where you can supply the 
need with a few hours’ work. 

PASSE PARTOUT PICTURES 

The easiest method of framing is to mount the 
picture upon cardboard, place the cardboard and 
glass together, and bind the edges with gummed 
paper, known as passe partout paper. 

The Parts. Figures 228 and 229 show a picture 
framed somewhat differently. Figure 230 shows the 
parts. The first piece A is the glass, B is the card¬ 
board mat with a panel opening just-large enough to 
157 


158 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


cover the margins of the picture, C is the picture, D 
is the cardboard back, and rings E are the hangers. 
You will notice that two slots are shown in back D. 
The end slot is provided through which to slip a pic- 



FlGS. 228 AND 229. FRONT AND BACK OF A SMALL PASSE PARTOUT 
PICTURE 


ture, the center slot to admit your fingers for shift¬ 
ing the picture into position. The slot arrangement 
makes it possible to remove and replace pictures. 

The Glass. You can use camera plates for glass, 
or, if there happen to be broken pieces of glass 
about the house, you can take them to a paint store 
and have them squared up; or, if you have a glass 






















FRAMING PICTURES FOR SCHOOL ROOM 159 


cutter, you can cut them yourself. You may know 
a photographer who will give you used camera plates. 
Small pieces of glass, however, will not cost much 
at the paint store. 



A Mat. If you can get a piece of photo-mounting 
board for the mat, it will be best; if not, use white 
cardboard from a box, or wallboard. You must cut 
the panel opening with a sharp knife, cut the sides 
straight, the corners square. 

Assembling. With all parts prepared, fasten them 
together with passe partout paper, or with the 
gummed tape sold for sealing packages. You can 














160 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


buy both in rolls (Fig. 231). The paper must be cut 
into strips, with ends mitered, and the lengths must 
be measured carefully, so the pieces will join neatly. 
Moisten the gum on one strip, and lap the strip over 
one edge of the glass and mat. Make the lap over the 
glass about % inch wide. Bind the opposite edges 
with a second strip, and then the intermediate edges, 
being careful to have the margins equal. 

Hangers . Figure 232 shows a ring hanger with a 
brass fastener that sticks through a hole punched in 
the picture backing and clinches. Figure 233 shows 
a gummed hanger made to stick upon the back. If 
you cannot buy either of these at a stationery store, 
make hangers out of fancy-work rings and strips of 
gummed tape. 

Picture Material appropriate for the Sunday 
school room will be found among lithographed and 
photogravured Bible picture cards and larger Bible 
pictures. 


A LATH PICTURE-FRAME 

Figure 234 shows about the simplest wooden 
frame that you can make. The corners are not 
mitered, but are butted together. Strips of the 
width and thickness of laths and lattice-strips are 
of the right size. Laths left in the rough and stained 
with shingle stain or other wood stain, make artistic 
frames. Lattice-strips can be stained and waxed, 
stained, shellacked and varnished, or enameled. 

The Frame Strips . Figure 235 shows how end 
pieces B fit between top and bottom pieces A, and 


FRAMING PICTURES FOR SCHOOL ROOM 161 


how strips C batten the four together. Dimensions 
are not given, because they will be determined by the 
size of the picture to be framed. Set strips C % 
inch from the inner edge of strips B, and fit strips D 
between them the same distance from the inner edge 
of strips A, to form an offset for the glass, picture 



Fig. 234. A LATH OR LATTICE-STRIP FRAME 


and backing, corresponding to that of a rabbeted 
frame. Fasten the strips with glue and brads. 

The Frame Baching. Use corrugated cardboard 
or wallboard for this. Cut it to fit the opening. 
After the glass and picture have been put in the 
frame, slip the backing in place, and fasten all by 
driving brads into the edge of the frame strips C 
and D. To seal the back, cut strips of gummed 
paper and lap them over the spaces between the 
frame and the backing. 

Hangers. Screw a screw-eye into strips C or the 
















162 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


back of the frame, one-third of their length down 
from the top, and fasten picture-wire or heavy cord 
to the screw-eyes. Hang the frame from two pic¬ 
ture-hooks instead of one; it will hang straighter. 

AN ORNATE FRAME 

The picture-frame shown in the photograph of 
Figure 236 is almost as easy to make as the one just 



described. The only additional work is the cutting 
of the curved top and bottom members. The frame 
illustrated is made of oak, but you can use any other 
kind of wood that is readily worked. Three-eighths 
inch stock is the right thickness. This is a good type 
of frame for the 16 by 20 size of lithograph and 
photogravure prints of Bible pictures handled by 
most of the Sunday school supply houses. 

The Frame Strips . Figure 237 shows a back view 
of the frame, and Figure 238 shows patterns for 











Fig. 236 . AN ORNATE FRAME THAT IS EASY TO MAKE 

[Facing page 162 



















» 
































♦ 











































* 














































FRAMING PICTURES FOR SCHOOL ROOM 1 63 

marking out and cutting the pieces. In laying out 
the top piece B and the bottom piece C, draw a cen¬ 
ter-line across each, then lay out one-half of- the 
curve to one side of the line, following the given 



Fig. 237. BACK OF FRAME shown in photograph of figure 236 

dimensions. Trace off the half of the curve upon 
transparent paper, reverse the paper, and transfer 
the outline upon the other side of the center-line. 
Use a coping saw or other small saw for cutting the 
curves. Saw close to the lines, then finish up the 
edges with a chisel and sandpaper. 

Assembling . You will see by Figure 237 how to 































164 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


assemble the frame, battening the pieces together 
with the battens D. The battens and a pair of strips 
set in between their ends (E) provide an offset for 
the glass, picture and backing, like the rabbet of the 



regular form of frame. Set strips D and E % inch 
from the inner edges of frame strips A, B and C. 
Fasten them with screws. Great care must be taken 
to cut the ends of frame strips A square, and to 
make close joints between them and top and bottom 
strips B and C. The joints should be glued. 

Finishing . You can finish this frame with wood- 











FRAMING PICTURES FOR SCHOOL ROOM 165 

stain, paint or enamel. The frame in the photo¬ 
graph was stained gray, then shellacked, then waxed. 

Use a piece of wallboard for the backing, and 
frame the picture, and put on the hanger screw-eyes 
in the manner previously described. 


Chapter XIII 

BANNERS, PENNANTS, STAFFS AND BASES 

A Staff—A Four-Wing Base—A Base with a Pipe-Fitting 
Socket—A Small Staff and Base for a Table—A Small Base 
for a Pennant—A Spool Base—Finishing Staffs and Bases— 
Perfect Attendance Awards—Banners and Pennants—A Star 
Banner A Concrete Base for a Flag—A Round Concrete 
Base. 

Your Sunday school banners, pennants and flags 
may not have staffs or bases. There is an extra 
charge for these, and they may have been omitted 
from the order to reduce the cost. Now, a banner 
or a pennant makes a good wall ornament, but if it 
is awarded to your class for perfect attendance or 
other attainment, you will want it near at hand, on 
a standard. With a little gumption, and an hour or 
so of work, you can easily make a staff and base 
that will serve excellently. Several suggestions for 
these accessories are presented on this and follow¬ 
ing pages. You will find most of the material at 
hand, and what you must buy will be inexpensive. 

A STAFF 

A round rug-pole or curtain-pole will make a good 
banner or flagstaff; a brass ball such as is sold for 
curtain-pole ends will do for the head, and can be 
166 


BANNERS, PENNANTS, STAFFS AND BASES 167 




Fig. 239. A RUG-POLE STAFF and a four-wing base 












168 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


screwed into the end of the pole. A rug-pole is gen¬ 
erally rough and must be rubbed smooth with sand¬ 
paper before finish is applied. Stain oak or ma¬ 
hogany color, then shellac and varnish it. The regu¬ 
lation length for a staff is 6 feet. 

Three-eighths inch gas-pipe and %-inch water- 
pipe make good staffs, also. You can plug the upper 
end with a wooden peg to screw a curtain-pole brass 
ball into. 


A FOUR-WING BASE 

A wooden base like that shown in Figure 239 is 
easy to make. Figure 240 shows a detail of it and 
Figure 241 a plan, while Figure 242 is a pattern for 
the wings A. The four wings can be cut out of any 
wood % inch thick. By lapping their ends, as shown 
in Figure 240, all can be cut of equal length. Fasten 
the pieces together so there will be an opening 1% 
inches square at the center for a pocket. Nail the 
shoe blocks B to the ends, cut cap block C to fit over 
the center opening, as shown in Figure 241, and 
bore a hole through its center of the right size 
for the staff. Bore a hole of the same diameter 
half way through a similar block, and nail this 
to the under side of the base, for the bottom of 
the socket. 

A BASE WITH A PIPE-FITTING SOCKET 

Another form of home-made base is shown in 
Figure 243. Cut crosspieces A and B 18 or 20 


BANNERS, PENNANTS, STAFFS AND BASES 169 

inches long, and 3 inches wide, out of %-inch stuff, 
and halve them together at their centers (Fig. 244) 
—that is, cut away a piece equal to the crosspiece’s 
width and one-half of its thickness, from each piece, 



so that the two will interlock with the surfaces flush. 
The pieces may be left straight like those of the base 
shown in Figure 254, or may be tapered from the 
points at which they interlock, to their ends—as 














170 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

shown in figure 244. Fasten the shoe blocks C to 
the base ends as shown in Figure 243. 

The staff socket is made of a plumber’s iron pipe 
floor flange (D, Fig. 245), and a pipe nipple to fit 


Fig. 246 




Figs. 243 - 246 . details of base with pipe-fitting socket 


it (E, Fig. 246). You can buy fittings of the right 
size for the staff you make the base for. Screw 
the floor flange to the center of the base, then screw 
the nipple into it. 


















BANNERS, PENNANTS, STAFFS AND BASES 171 



Fig, 247, A STAFF AND BASE FOR A BANNER TO STAND UPON A TABLE OR 
PEDESTAL 





































































172 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


A SMALL STAFF AND BASE FOR A TABLE 

Perhaps your class needs a staff and base for a 
small banner or pennant to stand upon a table or 


Fig. 251 Fig. 252 



FiG. 248. A BASE MADE OF AN ELECTRIC-LIGHT FIXTURE CANOPY AND A 
WOODEN BLOCK 

Figs. 249 and 250. a smaller base for a pennant 
Figs. 251 and 252. a spool base for a pennant 
Fig. 253. a pennant like this is easy to make 


pedestal. Figure 247 shows a base made of one of 
the brass canopy plates sold for electric-light fix¬ 
tures (A, Fig. 248), a nipple (B), and a wooden 
block (C) cut of the same diameter as the canopy 


























BANNERS, PENNANTS, STAFFS AND BASES 173 

plate. To make the base heavy enough so that it 
will not upset, fill the canopy plate with melted 
lead. Screw the plate to the wooden block with 
round-head brass screws. 

A piece of gas-pipe can be screwed to the canopy 
plate for a staff, or you can use a curtain-rod or 
dowel-stick of the right diameter to fit in the 
nipple B. 


A SMALL BASE FOR A PENNANT 

The base shown in Figure 249 is made of a minia¬ 
ture lamp-socket base (A, Fig. 250), a nipple (B), 
and a wooden block (C). Cut block C larger than 
the socket base, so the standard will not upset easily. 

A SPOOL BASE 

Figure 251 shows a base for a small pennant, 
made of a spool (A, Fig 252) and a wooden block 
(B). 


FINISHING STAFFS AND BASES 

The metal and wooden parts of the home-made 
bases for .banners, pennants and flags may be fin¬ 
ished with enamel paint, or the brass may be left 
as it is, and the wooden pieces stained mahogany 
color. A piece of felt glued to the bottom of the 
base blocks will prevent their scratching the sur¬ 
faces they are stood upon. 


174 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 
PERFECT ATTENDANCE AWARDS 

Many Sunday schools award a banner or pennant 
to classes having a perfect attendance and the 
award is theirs for as long a time as the attendance 
remains one hundred per cent. A sufficient number 
of these banners must be on hand to award them to 
all the classes, should the school at any time report 
a one hundred percent attendance. If you and the 
other boys in your class will make the staffs and 
bases, probably mother, sister, and other ladies in 
the church will undertake the preparation of the 
banners. 


BANNERS AND PENNANTS 

A banner or a pennant can always be secured for 
a pattern, and it is not difficult to duplicate them. 
Figure 249 suggests a good way to attach a pennant 
to a staff. There must be a hem on the edge of the 
pennant through which to run the staff, and two 
tapes at the corners to tie around the staff (Fig. 
253). 


A STAR BANNER 

While you must leave the making of cloth banners 
and pennants to some one else, you can make every 
part of the star banner shown in Figure 254. This 
clever form of banner, designed by my friend, Rev. 
George T. Arnold, has proved a great incentive to 
regular attendance. 


BANNERS, PENNANTS, STAFFS AND BASES 175 



Fig. 254. a 


STAR BANNER FOR CLASSES HAVING PERFECT ATTENDANCE 



176 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

The Base may be made like any of the forms 
described on preceding pages. 

The Staff may be a wooden curtain-pole or a 
piece of iron pipe. 

The Star may be cut out of wallboard, but metal 
will be better material. You can get galvanized iron 
or copper at any tinshop. Iron will be cheaper than 
copper, of course, and will be just as satisfactory. 
If you have tinsnips, cut the star yourself. If you 
haven’t, take a cardboard pattern to a tinshop and 
have the cutting done. 

Laying Out a Star is easy. Describe a circle with 
a compass, using a radius of 3 inches (a 6-inch star 
is a good size for a banner); divide the circumfer¬ 
ence into five equal parts, finding the exact divisor 
by trial; and join alternate points with straight 
lines (Fig. 255). 

Mount the Star upon a metal rod, slotting the end 
of the rod, slipping the star into the slot, and solder¬ 
ing it (Fig. 256). This rod can be driven into a hole 
bored in the end of a wooden staff, or soldered in 
the end of a pipe staff. Instead of using a metal 
rod, you can slot the end of a stick (Fig. 257) and 
fasten the star in the slot. This is the way to fasten 
a wallboard star. 

Finishing. The star must be finished with gold 
bronze. The staff and base may be enamelled with 
automobile enamel. Blue is a good color, but several 
colors may be used, each color designating a certain 
attainment—for instance, blue representing two 
Sundays of perfect attendance, red representing 
perfect attendance for the month, white perfect 





Fig. 255. this is the way to lay out a five-pointed star 
Fig. 256. SOLDER A metal star to a rod 
Fig. 257. FASTEN A WALLBOARD STAR IN THE SLOTTED END OF A STICK 





















178 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


attendance for the year. The sizes of the stars may 
be varied, also, to indicate the rank of classes. 
Your minister or superintendent will determine 
these matters. 

A CONCRETE BASE FOR A FLAG 

A base cast in concrete makes one of the best 
supports for a flag or banner that I know of. Fig¬ 
ure 258 shows a square base; Figure 259 shows a 
detail of the block, and Figure 260 shows a detail of 
the form required to cast it. Eight inches square 
and 6 inches deep is large enough for the base block. 
Make the form as shown in Figure 260 and described 
for making the bird-bath form in Chapter VII. For 
the flagstaff socket, buy a 6-inch iron pipe nipple 
of the right diameter for the staff to slip into, and 
support it in the center of the form while the con¬ 
crete is being poured, by sticking the staff or another 
stick of the same diameter into the pipe, and bearing 
down heavily. Of course, the nipple must not be 
allowed to slip during the processes of pouring and 
tamping, and it must be held in a vertical position. 
Follow the instructions given in Chapter VII for 
mixing and casting concrete. 


A ROUND CONCRETE BASE 

The round base with a dome-shaped top, shown 
in Figure 261, is cast in a kettle like that in Figure 
262 with a 6-inch pipe nipple supported in the center. 


BANNERS, PENNANTS, STAFFS AND BASES 179 



Fig. 258. A CONCRETE BASE FOR A FLAG OR BANNER 




180 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


A kettle can be used for the form, and it is best to 
use an old one, because the rim may interfere with 




Fig. 259. A SQUARE CONCRETE BASE 
Fig. 260. FORM FOR CASTING A SQUARE BASE 

removing the block, in which case it will be necessary 
to cut it away. 

Concrete bases may be painted, but look well when 
left the natural concrete color. 












BANNERS, PENNANTS, STAFFS AND BASES 181 



Fig. 262 

Fig. 261. a round concrete base 
FiG. 262. AN OLD KETTLE MAKES A GOOD FORM FOR A ROUND BASE 


































Chapter XIV 

PRINTING FOR THE CHURCH 
AND SUNDAY SCHOOL 

What to Print—Introduction Tags—Attendance Booster Tags— 
Absent Member Reminders—Novel Invitations to Socials— 
A Church or Sunday School Paper or Bulletin. 

Almost every Sunday school has among its 
scholars a boy printer. Perhaps you are the lad 
in your school. If so, there is much of the church 
and Sunday school printing which you should be 
able to handle, once you have learned to do pre¬ 
sentable work, and I am sure you can land a share 
of the printing if you approach the party in charge 
of it. My brother and I rendered such service when 
we were lads. Regular orders were paid for at 
about the rates formerly paid other printers, and, 
as we donated much work, we felt that we could 
conscientiously accept this payment. We figured 
that our printing outfit had been bought with hard- 
earned money, and we needed capital for additional 
equipment, for one is never done buying new faces 
of type. The other day in looking over my scrap¬ 
book of printing samples, which consist of every¬ 
thing from tickets to a monthly paper, I came 
across specimens of our church and Sunday school 
printing and of church printing done on the same 
press in recent years by other lads. Some of these 
182 


PRINTING FOR THE CHURCH 183 

samples are included in the group of assorted print¬ 
ing shown in the photograph of Figure 263. 


WHAT TO PRINT 

The easiest jobs for a small press are tickets, 
envelopes, letter-heads and tags. These require 
little type, which makes it easier to get good impres¬ 
sions. But with patient “underlaying” and “over¬ 
laying” a lad can produce good “make-ready” even 
with a chaseful. I remember one program that we 
turned out that required four impressions, another 
that was so long that it required two impressions to 
a page. That was working under difficulties, but was 
good experience. 

Following is a list of printing which a boy should 
be able to do for his church and Sunday school on 
a printing press with a chase (frame for type), that 
measures 4 by 6 inches. Examples are shown in 
the photograph of Figure 263. 

Tickets for entertainments, bazaars, socials and 
picnics 

Introduction tags 
“I am Early” tags 
Attendance booster tags 
Badges 
Letter-heads 
Envelopes 

Weekly offering and special collection coin en¬ 
velopes 

Post-card announcements 
Award cards 


184 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


Absent member reminders 

Sick member remembrance cards 

Attendance and other record cards 

Library cards 

Menu cards 

Place cards 

Programs 

Invitations to socials 
Dodgers 

A church and Sunday school publication 

It is not my intention to give instructions in this 
chapter on how to print, for that has been dis¬ 
cussed at length in my book, “The Boy Crafts¬ 
man”; but rather to give a few suggestions as to 
what to print. 


STOCK 

If you are to have the printing of all church and 
Sunday school tickets, ask the person ordering to 
use standard sizes, which will make it possible to 
buy stock cards instead of having them cut, and 
to buy them in half-thousand or thousand lots 
instead of a few hundred at a time. Stock sizes can 
always be purchased more cheaply than you can 
have cards cut to order. 

Stock sizes of cards can be bought for the printing 
of absent member reminders, sick member remem¬ 
brance cards, award cards, menu cards, place cards, 
library cards and record cards. 

Coin envelopes and cards can be purchased in 


PRINTING FOR THE CHURCH 


18 5 


small quantities at the stationery store, but since 
they can be used in many ways, it will pay to buy 
them in half-thousand or thousand lots at a paper 
house. 

Stock stationery can be obtained in various sizes 
and grades, and in large or small quantities. 

Post-cards can be used for many purposes, and 
it is most economical to use them when the exact 
number required for mailing is known, because of 
the saving in the cost of stock. Care must be taken 
not to waste these cards in “making ready’’ a job 
of printing. Use other cards, or paper cut post-card 
size, for striking proofs. 

INTRODUCTION TAGS 

The “Hello, Friend!” Tag, shown in the photo¬ 
graph of Figure 263, has come into popularity as a 
novel form of introduction in gatherings where there 
are strangers. Smaller tags than this with the two 
lower lines omitted can be substituted. 

ATTENDANCE BOOSTER TAGS 

The “1 am a Booster” Tag, shown in Figure 263, 
may be used for increasing either class or Sunday 
school membership. 

The “1 am Early” Tag (Fig. 263) is generally 
used in contests of a quarter’s or a year’s duration. 
Therefore, enough can be struck off at a time for 
a quarter or a year. Notice that the tag is dated. 
The dating is done with a rubber stamp dater. The 


186 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


person in charge of awarding the tags to early 
scholars can stamp them as needed, then there will 
be none wasted. It is customary to give a suitable 
award to each scholar holding thirteen tags at the 
end of a quarter, or fifty-two tags at the end of a 
year. 

Rain Checks, unlike those given out at a hall game 
postponed because of rain, are issued to each scholar 
attending services on stormy days. And at the end 
of the year, an award is given to those holding the 
largest number of checks. A rain check printed 
upon a round-cornered card is shown in the photo¬ 
graph of Figure 263. Tags can be used instead of 
cards, if preferred. 

ABSENT MEMBER REMINDERS 

Numerous forms of reminders and “follow-ups” 
have been devised for school and class secretaries 
to send to absent members. From these you can 
make adaptations to print on your press. The fol¬ 
lowing ideas never fail to bring results. 

A Startling Reminder consists of an envelope with 
a folded letter-paper enclosure, on one side of which 
is printed “This is to remind you—” and in the 
folds of which is concealed a metal or cardboard 
“bug” which buzzes around when released. It is 
safe to assume that the printed reminder will be 
read and acted upon. 

The folded sheet of letter-paper is shown in the 
upper left-hand corner of the photograph of Figure 
263; and it is shown in Figure 264 with the enclosed 


PRINTING FOR THE CHURCH 


187 


“bug” indicated by dotted lines. Figure 265 shows 
the unfolded paper with the reminder printed 
upon it. 

Figure 266 shows a cardboard “bug,” the rubber 
band used to make it buzz and the wire frame which 

Fig. 264 



—that yotfhave been 
......absent, lrdan. Sunday... .. 

- ^Scho ol. Be sure aneh= 
next Sunday 



Fig. 265 


FlG. 264. A STARTLING REMINDER 
Fig. 265. THE SHEET UNFOLDED 

supports the rubber band. A pattern for the “bug” 
is given in Figure 267, and the size of rubber band 
to use is shown in Figure 268. To set the “bug,” 
turn it over and over until the rubber band is tightly 
twisted; then hold it, fold it up in the paper, and 
slip the paper into its envelope. 























188 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

The Fire-Cracker Report Card at the bottom of 
the photograph of Figure 263 is a novelty from the 
house of David C. Cook Publishing Company. The 
cracker has an outer casing % inch in diameter 
rolled out of a piece of red paper 2 inches square, 
(Fig. 269); and its fuse is a piece of cotton string 
glued in the turned-over edge of a strip of paper 
2 inches wide and 4 inches long (Fig. 271), which is 
rolled up into a tight roll (Fig. 270) and slipped 


Fig. 267 



Fig. 266 Fig. 268 


Figs. 266-268. details of the “bug” for the startling reminder 

into the casing. The wording for the card can be 
seen in the photograph. This has been printed from 
a zinc cut engraved from a hand-lettered original. 
You can set up the wording in type, omitting the 
arrow lines. The wording for the fuse insert is 
shown in Figure 271. 

NOVEL INVITATIONS TO SOCIALS 

A clever invitation to a social seldom fails to bring 
out a good attendance, and blazes the way for the 

















1METTE BAPTIST CHUf^CH 

I ! K \v;riS? M.,^ ; 


COME TO 

SALE of 
iNDlCRAF 
GIFTS , 


HELLO, 

FRIEND! 

My Name is 


T ' ft “«OSIM 
“"■Wi-nt 


What’s Yours? 


et’s Shake 


Official Ballot 


PROGR/tH 


Fig. 263. PRINTING FOR THE CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL THAT 
CAN BE DONE ON A SMALL PRESS 


[ Facing page 188 

















PRINTING FOR THE CHURCH 189 

evening’s fun. There are many methods of prepar¬ 
ing invitations. The entertainment committee of 
your church has used various schemes, no doubt, and 
knows of other untried ideas. Two novel forms of 
invitation are the u Stocking Social” invitation, 
shown in the photograph of Figure 263, and the 
“Backwards Social” invitation shown in Figure 272. 


Fig-. 269 


Fig. 270 


|Wmiiwmmiwimmrnwmiwniit - - 


inninnmiujniiiiiHiinfui 


siz-z-z-zz-zz-zz BANG! 

We would 
like to 
haveyou 

REPORT 

at Sunday 
School 


r 


Fig. 271 

Figs. 269-271. details of the cracker for the fire-cracker report 

CARD SHOWN IN THE PHOTOGRAPH OF FIGURE 263 


A Stocking Social offers a successful method of 
raising a small sum of money. There are several 
ways to word the invitation, but the following verse 
on a card, to which is pinned a small cloth sock, is 
to the point: 

Dear Friend: 

This little sock we send to you 
Is not for you to wear; 








190 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


Please multiply your size by two 
And place therein with care, 

In precious nickels, cents and dimes— 

We trust you’re good at summing— 

Your stocking’s size increased two times. 

Now, help us out by coming— 

We’ll welcome you with smiling face, 

And gladly take your stock. 

Remember well the date and place— 

And Don’t Foeget Youe Sock! 

Stocking Social Committee, 
Berwyn M. E. Church. 

Date, Feb. 5th, 

8 o’clock. 

Print the verse upon a card of post-card size. 
The ladies can make the socks. These should be 
3 V 2 inches long, and should have a gathering-string 
in the top of each with which to draw the sock to¬ 
gether after it has had the correct number of coins 
deposited in it. 

A Backwards Social, at which everything is done 
backwards, calls for something unique in invitations. 
A novel form to set this in is shown in Figure 272. 
The illustration has been reproduced from an invi¬ 
tation set up by one of the boys of the church and 
printed on my hand press, on pieces of brown wrap- 
ping-paper with edges torn ragged as indicated. 
You. can use your own wording for the invitation, 
and your own scheme for setting. The illustration 
suggests how to set the words to read backwards, 


PRINTING FOR THE CHURCH 


191 


how to invert letters, and how to insert capital let¬ 
ters where small letters should he, and vice versa. 

A CHUECH OE SUNDAY SCHOOL PAPEE OE BULLETIN 

A publication for the church or Sunday school 
offers you a fine opportunity to serve in a big way, 
and the experience of editing, setting type, making 


AINTCHA CUMMIN! 

WEAR??? Why, tu the "sdrawkcaB ytraP’ 
tu B givin necks wensday mARch, 29, 1922, at 
30:7 ercloK inn the cOmunitea HOmsE buy the 
yung peepel uv Christ Chnrch SEA E, Yer a*i| 
cordialy invijed ter b their., dOnt fergij to where 
all yer cloz sdrawkcab, to tawk, sihake-Hans, & walk 
bakwerds-. sOlouS Seeya nex Wansday!j^\ 


Fig. 272. AN INVITATION TO A BACKWARDS SOCIAL CAN BE 
SET UP LIKE THIS 



up pages, reading proof, making revisions, printing 
and distributing the issues will be excellent training. 

But the size of the undertaking should be realized 
at the start; otherwise, as often happens, the publi¬ 
cation may be short-lived. This is a proposition 
that requires time, and lots of it, continuously. It 
is really more than one boy should attempt. I can 
speak from experience, since my brother and I 
published a small paper for three years, when we 
were lads. 




m CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

The Staff. Whether the publication be issued 
weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly, there should be an 
editorial staff, with an editor-in-chief willing to 
work and capable of shouldering the entire burden 
if the others fall down. There should be an adver¬ 
tising manager, if space is to be given over to ads; 
and closely associated with him should be the circu¬ 
lation manager. 

The Printers must be plodders, because the me¬ 
chanical end of the proposition requires lots of time 
and patient effort. 

Machine Type-Setting is preferable to setting by 
hand, because of the time it saves, and because each 
issue will be printed from newly cast type. This 
will save your investing in many fonts of type for 
the body of the sheet, and replacing worn type 
with new. You can have the setting done by a mono¬ 
type machine, which casts each letter as a unit, or 
by a linotype machine, which casts all letters of a 
line in one piece. The latter is the more easily 
handled because it is in fewer pieces. The type metal 
can be returned to the type-setting establishment 
after use, to be remelted and reused. You will find 
an establishment of this kind in every large city, 
and in a small town you can have the setting done 
by the publisher of the town newspaper. 

Engraving is expensive, but occasionally you can 
afford a reproduction made in zinc from a pen-and- 
ink drawing, or even a copper halftone from a photo¬ 
graph. Stock cuts, of which there are thousands 
of designs, with something appropriate for every 
occasion, are inexpensive, and can be purchased 


PRINTING FOR THE CHURCH 


193 


from every type-foundry, or through your local 
printer. Illustrations make a publication attractive, 
and are worth the investment, especially if the 
publication has been placed on a paying basis. 

Specimen Papers. The photograph of Figure 263 
shows a small eight-page Sunday school monthly 
publication issued by a boy and his class. This was 
set and printed by the boy himself. At the head 
of the illustration is also shown a two-page church 
paper, the type of which was set on a linotype 
machine, but the printing done by a boy. 

These are matters which should be gone into 
thoroughly before launching a church or Sunday 
school publication. 


Chapter XV 

ATTENDANCE THERMOMETERS 
AND DIALS 

New Member Contests—How to Make an Attendance Thermom¬ 
eter—A Two-Tube Contest Thermometer—An Attendance 
Dial. 

Attendance thermometers have proved one of the 
best means of stimulating attendance at Sunday 
school. When they are made large and hung upon 
the wall in plain sight of all the school, they never 
fail to attract attention. Every one becomes inter¬ 
ested in the rise of the “mercury,’’ and with united 
effort the school’s attendance mounts at a gratifying 
rate. 


NEW MEMBER CONTESTS 

A new member contest increases interest in the 
thermometer recorder. For such a contest two 
thermometers are needed. The school is divided 
into two teams of an equal number of scholars, gen¬ 
erally known as “blues” and “reds,” or other colors, 
and with the thermometer readings set to indicate 
the strength of each team, the weekly increase in 
team membership is shown by a “rise of the mer¬ 
cury” in each “tube.” 


194 




ATTENDANCE THERMOMETERS 



195 


FlG. 273. AN ATTENDANCE THERMOMETER 





































196 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


HOW TO MAKE AN ATTENDANCE) THERMOMETER 

You can easily make a substantial thermometer 
board in an evening, and the time will be well 
invested because the thermometer will be much used 
and will last indefinitely. Figure 273 shows a board 
with a single “tube” mounted on an 8-inch board 
36 inches long with edges beveled with a plane. 
When you have planed the board, give it a couple 
of coats of white enamel. 

Laying Out the Board with vertical and horizon¬ 
tal lines is the next operation (Fig. 274). Rule the 
lines with a soft pencil and straight edge. Continue 
the 1-inch divisions marked off at the top, for the 
full height of the column. Then divide each 1-inch 
division into five. Each of the small divisions is to 
represent a scholar. Number them as shown in 
Figure 273. Go over the lines and numbers with 
black paint. 

The “Mercury” Column is indicated by two 
pieces of tape, one white, the other red or blue 
(or whatever color the team has chosen, if there is 
to be a contest). These tapes should be % inch in 
width. Sew an end of one tape to an end of the other 
and sew a piece of elastic to one of the other ends 
(Fig. 275). Then cut a narrow slot through the 
board above the head of the “mercury” column 
(Figs. 273 and 274), and another below the foot of 
the column, slip the joined tapes through the slots, 
bring the ends together (Fig. 276), pull taut and sew. 
To cause the mercury to rise in the tube, pull the 



Fig. 274 


Fig. 275 


Fig. 276 


Fig. 274 . DIAGRAM OF THE THERMOMETER BOARD 
■p *l G - 275 - TW 0-COLOR TAPE TO REPRESENT MERCURY COLUMN 
IMG. 276. RUN THE TAPE THROUGH THE SLOTS IN THE BOARD AND JOIN 

ITS ENDS 

FlG. 277. HALF OF A RUBBER BALL TO REPRESENT BULB OF 

THERMOMETER TUBE 






































198 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 



Fig. 278. A TWO-TUBE CONTEST thermometer 








































ATTENDANCE THERMOMETERS 199 

colored tape up on the front of the board, and the 
white tape down on the back. 

The Bulb at the foot of the column is a half of a 
large rubber ball (Fig. 277). Paint it the color of 



FlG. 279. AN ATTENDANCE DIAL 


the red or blue tape, and fasten it to the board with 
glue or rubber cement. 

Hangers . A pair of screw-eyes screwed into the 
top of the board will do for hangers. 

A TWO-TUBE CONTEST THERMOMETER 

For a two-team thermometer use a board 11% 
inches wide, and lay it out as shown in Figure 278, 






200 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


with two “tubes”—one of red and white tape, the 
other of blue and white tape. The construction will 
be similar to that of the one “tube” board. 

AN ATTENDANCE DIAL 

Some Sunday school leaders prefer the dial 
method shown in Figure 279 for recording progress 



in membership drives. On this dial, in reality, a 
double dial, a large hand indicates the present mem¬ 
bership of the school, a small hand indicates the 
weekly gain. A pair of large hands and a pair of 
small ones, of the team’s colors, can be provided, if 
the dial is to be used in a contest. 









ATTENDANCE THERMOMETERS 201 

The Dial Bach should be made of wallboard be¬ 
cause it should be at least 24 inches square. To 
keep the wallboard from warping, tack it to a frame 
made of laths or other small strips. 

The Graduations . The diagram .of Figure 280 
shows how to lay out the circles for the graduations. 
A strip of cardboard with holes punched in it, one 


Fig. 281 



for a pin center, the others to slip your pencil 
through, makes a good compass for describing the 
circles. Divide the circles into sixteen equal parts 
(Fig. 280), then divide each of the sixteen parts 
into two parts (Fig. 279), and each of these into 
five parts. This will provide for a membership 
attainment of one hundred and sixty. For a higher 
goal make a larger number of divisions. 

The Large Rand can be made of a piece of tin cut 









202 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

from a can, a piece of galvanized iron, copper, or 
other metal. Figure 281 shows a pattern. 

The Small Hand can be cut out of metal, also, or 
you can use a hand from a broken alarm clock. 

Fasten the hands to the dials with stove bolts, 
placing washers beneath the heads and nuts (Fig. 
282); or fasten them with round-head screws, plac¬ 
ing a small ’block of wood behind the wallboard to 
drive them into. 

Finishing . The wallboard can be enameled white, 
or any color. Put on the graduations and lettering 
with black paint, and paint a border around the out¬ 
side, or finish the edges with strips of passe partout 
paper. 


Chapter XVI 

BANKS AND CONTRIBUTION BOXES 

A Mite Box—A Contribution Box—A Large Contribution Box. 

Home-made banks may be provided for class use, 
in the Sunday school room, and one at home will 
encourage thrift. As they can be made of material 
at hand, the money that would have gone toward the 
purchase of banks can be deposited therein. 


A MITE BOX 

The cross-shaped cardboard bank shown in Figure 
283 presents a good problem in laying out, cutting 
and folding. Make it of box cardboard. 

Marking Out the Parts . Figures 284 and 285 
show how to lay out the pieces required. As all 
measurements are 2 inches, you will find this work 
easy to do with a pencil and ruler. Care must be 
taken, of course, to make all corners right angles. 

Folding. After you have marked out and cut one 
piece like that shown in Figure 284, and two pieces 
like that shown in Figure 285, fold the former piece 
along the dotted lines, lapping and gluing the first 
and fifth folds, as shown in Figure 287. Glue the 
slotted end of the folded pieces; and fasten the other 
with pieces of gummed tape, as indicated, to provide 
for opening the bank. The ears bent out on two 
opposite sides are provided to fasten the two hori- 

203 


204 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


zontal extensions of the cross to (Fig. 286). Fold 
these cube-shaped end boxes out of the pieces cut by 
the pattern of Figure 285. 



Cover the sides of the cardboard box with red 
paper, or use white paper and paint it red with 
water-colors. 


A CONTRIBUTION BOX 

A Small Contribution Box like that shown in 
Figures 288 and 289 can be fastened to a wall. 
While so fastened it cannot be opened. 
































Figs. 284 and 285. patterns for cutting and folding cardboard 

FOR MITE BOX 

Fig. 286. a folded end of the cross-shaped box 









































































206 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


The Can for the Money Receptacle of the model 
illustrated was a 1-lb. size fish can that measured 2 
inches deep and 3 % inches in diameter. 

The Top and Base Blocks (A, Fig. 290), and the 
vertical bars (B, Fig. 291) are of the correct 
dimensions for a can of the above given dimen- 



FlG. 28 7. THIS FOLDED PIECE FORMS THE CENTER AND TWO 
ENDS OF THE CROSS-SHAPED BOX 


sions. If the can you use is of a different size, alter 
the dimensions for the blocks and bars to suit. Make 
blocks A % inch thick, bars B % inch thick. Cut off 
the front comers of blocks A with a saw and a chisel, 
and trim up the edge to a perfect semicircle. 
Smooth all surfaces with sandpaper. Bore a row 
of gimlet holes along the center of the top block, 
for the money slot, and connect the holes with a 
chisel or small saw. This slot should he just large 
enough to admit a fifty-cent piece. 




BANKS AND CONTRIBUTION BOXES 


207 



Figs 288 and 289. a small contribution box 
Figs. 290 and 291. patterns for wooden parts 


































































208 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


Assembling . Bore screw holes through bars B 
where indicated. Fasten the strips to the top and 
base blocks in the positions shown, with round-head 
screws. The tin can will slip into the back of the 
framework, as shown in Figure 289. Screw a screw- 



FlG. 292. A LARGE CONTRIBUTION BOX 


eye into the top block so that its point will come 
inside of the top rim of the can; also, drive a screw- 
eye through the base block in a corresponding posi¬ 
tion, so that its point will come inside of the bottom 
rim. These screw-eyes form hangers by which to 
hang the bank upon the wall, and their projecting 
points prevent the can from pulling entirely out of 
the framework, when the bank is removed for 
emptying. 
























BANKS AND CONTRIBUTION BOXES 209 

Paint the bank two coats. I would suggest red 
enamel for the tin can receptacle, and gray for the 
top, base and bars, with a small red cross added to 
the center of the top. 

A LARGE CONTRIBUTION BOX 

The box shown in Figure 292 may be used for 
contributions to a fund, for special collections, to 
deposit tickets in at entertainments and for a ballot- 
box for church, school, or class elections. 

The Material for the box can be obtained from 
grocery boxes, so need cost nothing. Select a box 
or two made of soft wood with straight grain, and, 
after knocking the boards apart, pick out only the 
best pieces. One-quarter inch is thick enough, but 
if the boards run a little thicker they can be used 
just as well. 

The Parts are shown in the patterns of Figures 
293 to 298. Piece A is the back, B is the side, C 
is the bottom, D is the door on the front, E is the 
strip above the door, and F is the top. Mark them 
out carefully, following the given dimensions. To 
get the ends of the back board symmetrical, it is best 
to draw a center-line, and lay off the measurements 
on one side of it, then trace off the outline upon 
thin paper, reverse the paper, and transfer the lines 
upon the opposite side of the center-line. 

Cut the square parts with a sharp cross-cut saw, 
the irregular ends of the back board with a coping- 
saw or other small saw. Great care must be taken 
not to splinter the edges of the pieces when sawing. 


210 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


The way to prevent this is to back up the piece you 
are sawing with another piece of wood, and then 
saw through the two. When all of the pieces 



Fig. 298 


Fig. 297 


Fig. 296 


Fig. 295 


Fig. 294 


Figs. 293-298. patterns for parts of the large contribution box 


required have been cut, sandpaper them, being care¬ 
ful to round off only those edges which do not join 
with other surfaces. Cut the coin slot % inch wide 
and 3 inches long, boring a row of holes, then cutting 



















BANKS AND CONTRIBUTION BOXES 211 

out the wood between the holes with a chisel or knife. 

Assemble the Parts with glue or brads. Fasten 
the bottom and side pieces together, first, then the 
hack to their edges. Next, hinge the front board 
to the front edge of the bottom board, letting the 
hinges into the pieces as shown in Figure 299, and 
fasten strip E above it. Buy a cupboard half-mortise 
lock at the hardware store (Fig. 300), fasten it to 



Fig. 299 

Fig. 299. ATTACH THE HINGES AND LOCK LIKE THIS 
Fig. 300. use a half-mortise lock 

the inside of the door, as shown in Figure 299, and 
cut a slot in the lower edge of strip E for a latch- 
pocket. Use a sharp chisel for the cutting. 

The Finish for the contribution box may he such 
as you select or are directed to use. A coat of flat 
paint and two coats of enamel are probably best 
suited to the purpose, but you can use a stain made 
of oil paint thinned with turpentine, or a purchased 
wood stain, if the surfaces will take it nicely. 

Screw a pair of screw-eyes into the top edge of 
the back board for hangers. 


















Chapter XVII 

BULLETIN BOARDS 

A Bulletin Board on Posts—A Portable Bulletin Board—An In¬ 
door Bulletin Board—A Bulletin Board with a Glass Front. 

Nowadays we seldom see the once familiar “A” 
type of church bulletin board, made of two wide 
boards placed with tops together and bottoms spread, 
and braced with strips nailed across their edges. 
Occasionally we find one outside a tent tabernacle, 
but of course, the temporary nature of tent meetings 
warrants the use of a board quickly knocked to¬ 
gether. There is little excuse for not having better 
permanent equipment, because the cost of the 
material for a well-designed board is small and you 
or any other boy of the church or Sunday school can 
do the work. 


A BULLETIN BOARD ON POSTS 

The board with a canopy top, shown in the frontis¬ 
piece photograph of Figure 301 and the detail of 
Figure 302 is of dignified design, and practical for 
a permanent position on the church lawn or park¬ 
way. The board in the photograph is big enough 
for all purposes. Its dimensions are shown in the 
elevation and cross-section working-drawings of 
212 


BULLETIN BOARDS 213 

Figures 303 and 304; but these need not be adhered 
to. Some boards are made narrower. This is a 
matter for your minister to decide. 

The Best Material for an outdoor bulletin board 
is cypress, often spoken of as the “wood eternal,” 



Fig. 302 . A BULLETIN BOARD SET UP ON POSTS. (SEE FRONTISPIECE, 
FIGURE 301 ) 

because of its great resistance to decay. This is an 
easily worked wood, and it takes stain readily. In 
making out your material bill, specify that the pieces 
ordered shall be selected, free from knots and cracks, 
and “S-4-S” (which means surfaced-four-sides). 
Notice that the corner posts A are 4-by-4s. Their 


















214 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


length above ground is shown as 6 feet 2 inches, but 
they must be at least 8 feet long, so that not less 
than 20 inches of their lower ends can be set into 
the ground (36 inches would be better). Rails B 




Fig. 303 


Fig. 304 


FlG. 303. FRONT ELEVATION OF BULLETIN BOARD 
Fig. 304. CROSS-SECTION OF BULLETIN BOARD 


and C are 2-by-4s, panel boards D are l-by-6 matched 
flooring, molding strips E are quarter-rounds, 
brackets F are cut out of a piece of 2-by-6, roof 
boards G are 12-inch boards, and ridge piece H is 
a strip of galvanized iron or copper. 


































BULLETIN BOARDS 215 

The Corner Posts must have their tops cut off 
as shown in the detail of Figure 305, tomtit the peak 
of the canopy. Mark off the lines to saw on exactly 
at an angle of 45 degrees, so the peak will be a right 
angle. The posts of the board illustrated have stop- 
chamfers cut on their edges (Fig. 305). This is for 
ornamentation. The cutting should be done with 
a chisel and a plane. 



Fig. 305. DETAIL OF CORNER POSTS 

The Rails and Panel Boards should be cut next. 
Their lengths are shown in Figures 303 and 304. 
The groove of the first board of the panel, and a 
strip including the tongue of the last board, will 
have to be ripped off. The width of the last board 
can be determined best after all of the boards but 
this have been nailed in place. 

Assembling the bulletin board is a simple job of 
nailing. First, mark off the positions for the ends 
of rails B and C on the inner face of posts A. Then 
toe-nail the rail ends to the posts with 20-penny 









216 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


finishing-nails. This is best done with the members 
laid flat upon the ground. Next, frame one side of 
the panel opening with quarter-round strips (E), 
mitering the strip ends so they will join neatly. 
Guide-lines must be measured off and drawn, 
to locate the strips correctly in respect to the thick¬ 
ness of the posts. With the quarter-round molding 
nailed around one side of the opening, nail the panel 



Fig. 306. PATTERN FOR CANOPY BRACKETS 


boards in place. Drive the boards close together, 
and toe-nail through their ends into rails B and C. 
When the panel hoards have been nailed, fit and nail 
the second set of quarter-round strips to them 
(Fig. 304). 

The Canopy is supported by the post ends and the 
four brackets (F). Cut the brackets out of 2-by-6- 
inch stuff, laying them out by the pattern of Figure 
306. The slope of the top of the brackets must be 
exactly the same as the slope of the post ends. It 
will be the same if you mark it as shown and saw 






Fig. 307. 


A PORTABLE BULLETIN BOARD 

[ Facing page 216 




























BULLETIN BOARDS 217 

accurately. Toe-nail a pair of the brackets to the 
center of the opposite faces of each post, as shown. 

The roof boards (G) are cut from a 12-inch board, 
which will measure about 11% inches wide. Cut 
them 4 feet 9 inches long (Fig. 303). Nail or screw 
them to the posts and brackets. With the boards 
in place, get a strip of galvanized iron or copper 
5 inches wide, bend it to fit the ridge, and nail it to 
the roof boards with shingle nails. 

Finishing . You can finish the bulletin board 
before or after setting it up. The best kind of finish 
for a board made of cypress is a creosote shingle- 
stain. You can buy a small quantity of whatever 
color is desired at most paint-stores. Directions for 
applying will accompany the stain. 

Of course, you can paint the board, if paint is 
preferred. Two coats will be necessary, and three 
will make a better job. 

Erecting the Board. You can set the corner posts 
of the bulletin board in holes, drilled with a post-hole 
auger, or dug; but they will be firmer if set in con¬ 
crete, and this is the way I would advise you to set 
them if you can get the material. It will take only 
a little concrete for the purpose, and possibly you 
can buy what you need from a builder in the neigh¬ 
borhood. For concrete footings you can drill holes 
to the required depth (about 30 inches) with a post- 
hole auger; then enlarge the diameter with a spade. 
If you have allowed a length of only 20 inches to set 
into the ground, you can dig holes 30 inches or so 
deep, and fill them with concrete to the 20 inch depth, 
for a footing. When these footings have set, stand 


218 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

the post ends upon them, fill in around them with 
concrete, and tamp it down. 



Fig. 308. DETAIL OF PORTABLE BULLETIN-BOARD SHOWN 
IN PHOTOGRAPH OF FIGURE 307 


A PORTABLE BULLETIN BOARD 

Sometimes a portable board meets the require¬ 
ments better than the stationary type just described. 
It can be stood upon the sidewalk, upon a terrace, 
or the lawn. The photograph of Figure 307 shows 
a good form of portable bulletin board, the making 
























BULLETIN BOARDS 219 

of which will be a good problem in carpentry for a 
boy. Fignre 308 is a detail of the same board. 
Figure 309 is a cross-section, and Figures 310 to 316 
are diagrams of the parts. 



Fig. 309. CROSS-SECTION OF portable bulletin board 
Figs. 310-316. details of parts 

Use Cypress for this board, if you make one, be¬ 
cause of its durability and the ease with which it can 
be worked. Posts A (Fig. 309) and runners E are 
pieces of 2-by-4. Board B can be made up of 
matched pieces, like the panel of the larger bulletin 
board shown in Figure 302, but it will be better to 










































220 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

go to a mill and have a piece of single width glued 
up. Have the mill-man let a strip of wood into the 
joint to reenforce the gluing. 

Preparing the Parts . Figure 310 gives dimen¬ 
sions for uprights A, Figure 314 for runners E, and 
Figure 311 for the panel board. The inside face of 
posts A must be grooved to receive the edge of the 
panel. Cut the groove of the size shown in Figure 
310, % inch deep, cutting it with a %-inch chisel. 
Cap block C (Fig. 312), must be grooved also to fit 
over the top of the board (Fig. 309). Cut strips D 
(Fig. 313) to fit against the sides of the panel, be¬ 
tween posts A (Fig. 309). 

Assembling. Posts A can be fastened to runners 
E with mortise-and-tenon joints, or simply with long 
lag-screws driven through the runners into the post 
ends. For reenforcement, fasten iron braces in the 
angles formed by posts A and runners E (see dotted 
lines in Fig. 309), and conceal the braces with the 
wooden brackets G (Fig. 316). Nail shoe-blocks F 
(Fig. 315), to the runner ends. Fit these carefully, 
making them of the right width so their surfaces will 
be flush with those of the runners. When all parts 
have been securely nailed and screwed, join the run¬ 
ners with crosspieces H, making these of l-by-2 inch 
stuff cut of the required length. 

Finish the Bulletin Board with stain or paint, af¬ 
ter carefully sandpapering all surfaces. If you stain 
the wood, putty all nailholes with putty colored to 
match the stain, before applying the stain. If you 
do a paint job, putty after the first coat has dried, 
for it will hold better then. 


BULLETIN BOARDS 


221 


AN INDOOR BULLETIN BOARD 

A good board for the posting of bulletins indoors 
can be made of wallboard. To keep the wallboard 
from warping, tack it to three lath battens, one 



Fig. 317. AN INDOOR BULLETIN BOARD WITH GLASS FRONT 


placed across the bottom, another across the top, 
and a third across the center, on the back. 

A BULLETIN BOARD WITH A GLASS FRONT 

A more elaborate form of bulletin board is shown 
in Figure 317. Instead of placing battens on the 
wallboard, a frame is made and the wallboard is 









































222 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


tacked to it. Then a second glazed frame of the 
right size to fit inside is hinged to it. This inner 
frame prevents notices from blowing away or from 
being tampered with. 


Fig. 319 Fig. 324 Fig. 321 



Fig. 318. FRONT OF OUTER FRAME OF BULLETIN-BOARD 
FlG. 3I9. FRAME WITH WALLBOARD BACKING 

Figs. 320 and 321. the inner frame 
Figs. 322-324. hinge, knob and button for inner frame 


The Inner Frame may be a picture-frame of plain 
molding % or 1 inch wide. If you cannot find one at 
home, buy one at a department store or a paint 
store, or get the molding and make one. A frame 

























BULLETIN BOARDS 223 

with a 16 by 20 inch opening is a good size to use. 

The Outer Frame must be made to suit the inner 
picture-frame. If you cannot get the same kind of 
wood, you can stain other wood so that it will look 
very much like it, or you can enamel both frames. 

The corners of the outer frame can be mitered, 
but it will be easier to make butt-joints as shown in 
Figure 318. In cutting the pieces, make them long 
enough so there will be a clearance of % inch on all 
sides of the picture-frame; this is important. Tack 
the wallboard backing to the frame in the manner 
shown in Figure 319. If you wish to face the board 
with felt, glue the material to the wallboard before 
tacking this to the frame. 

Assembling . Hinge the picture-frame to the outer 
frame with a pair of small brass hinges (Fig. 322). 
Fasten a knob made of a silk-twist spool (Fig. 323) 
to the picture-frame with a round-head screw, and 
screw a pair of metal buttons (Fig. 324) to the outer 
frame. 


Chapter XVIII 

BLACKBOARDS AND AN EASEL 

A Wallboard and Lath Blackboard—A Blackboard and Bulletin 
Board—An Easel for Blackboards and Maps. 

How about an extra blackboard for the Sunday 
school room—a small one, a large one, or an easel 
for a blackboard or maps? If the school room is 
provided with screens, the best plan is to build a 
blackboard into each side of them as the class screen 
shown in Figure 222, Chapter XI, is made. There 
may be need of additional boards, however, so I am 
presenting plans in this chapter. 

A WALLBOARD AND LATH BLACKBOARD 

The blackboard in Figure 325 measures 36 by 48 
inches, but the size is something for your Sunday 
school teacher or superintendent to decide. The 
writing surface is wallboard, which can be pur¬ 
chased in 32-inch and 48-inch widths, in lengths 
varying from 6 to 10 feet. Wallboard is sold at lum¬ 
ber-yards, but if you want only part of a sheet you 
had better see if you cannot get it from a carpenter. 

The Blackboard Frame . The easiest way to make 
this is to tack lattice-strips or laths to the edges of 
the wallboard panel, on both sides (Fig. 326). Laths 
224 


BLACKBOARDS AND AN EASEL 


225 



thl fouowSnc 

^E«PtCT ATTCn 


SCHOLAR HAVE HAn 

POaTHC 


C^ACf'Rn XOVCC'M 

FKrX ^'< 'SCtUN 
CCRpr M y 

|VOKM£ 'N hopi< 1n , s 

Ltt ^Pek.^poo. 


bcccht v«wsoN 

CPNA HOBCWTS 
«HT,tur\ ARNOLD 

SCOTT 

CO>A/Cvf><> (.tricot 


FlG. 325. A WALLBOARD AND LATH BLACKBOARD 

(A chalk-rail may be added, if desired) 



i 


FlG. 326. FRAME THE WALLBOARD BLACKBOARD WITH LATHS LIKE THIS 
































226 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


are cheaper and yon can plane them up satisfactor¬ 
ily. You can miter the frame strips at the corners, 
but neatly made butt-joints like those shown in Fig. 
325 will look just as well and will be easier and 
quicker to make. Glue the strips to the wallboard, 



Fig. 327 



Figs. 327 and 328. one side of this board is slated for a black¬ 
board, THE OTHER SIDE IS LEFT PLAIN TO PIN NOTICES ON 


and in addition nail them with %-inch or %-inch 
brads. 

Slating the Blackboard . Schoolboard liquid-slat¬ 
ing can be bought at most well-stocked paint stores, 
and it can be obtained through your Sunday school 
supply house. Directions for applying will accom¬ 
pany it. To prepare the wallboard for the slating, 


















227 


BLACKBOARDS AND AN EASEL 

it is a good plan to give the surface two coats of 
lamp-black thinned with turpentine. If you are not 
able to buy the liquid-slating, apply four coats of 
lamp-black and turpentine to the wallboard. This 
will make a fair writing surface. 


/fl\ 



FlG. 329. A BLACKBOARD EASEL IS EASY TO MAKE 


A Chalk-rail may be added to the blackboard 
frame if one is wanted. Make it of strips like the 
rail shown in Figure 332. 

Finish the Frame Strips with paint or enamel. 

Hangers . If there is a picture-molding from 
which to hang the blackboard, set screw-eyes in the 
top edge of the frame, and buy chain and picture- 
hooks for hanging. 












228 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

A BLACKBOARD AND BULLETIN BOARD 

A handy board is one slated on one side for a 
blackboard (Fig. 327), and left plain on the other 



FrG. 330. DETAIL OF EASEL FRAME 
Fig. 331. HINGE THE REAR LEG IN THIS MANNER 
FlG. 332 . DETAIL OF BLACKBOARD SUPPORT AND CHALK-RAIL 


side to pin notices on (Fig. 328). Using a piece of 
wallboard about 18 by 24 inches in size, it will only 









































BLACKBOARDS AND AN EASEL 229 

be necessary to batten it with laths across the top 
and bottom, as shown. 

Drill holes through the top battens for the attach¬ 
ment of chain or wire hangers. 

AN EASEL FOB BLACKBOARDS AND MAPS 

The easel shown in Figure 329 is made of l-by-2 
strips. Figure 330 gives dimensions for the A- 
shaped frame. Bring together the upper ends of 
uprights A, as shown, and fasten them with the block 
C (Figure 331); connect the lower ends with the 
cross-bar B. Fasten block C and cross-bar B to the 
back of the uprights. Cut strut D 6 inches shorter 
than strips A, and hinge it to the block C (Fig. 331). 
Fasten a loop of chain to uprights A, and the center 
of the loop to strut D, to keep the easel from spread¬ 
ing when set up. 

The Blackboard Support and Chalk-rail should be 
built up as shown in Figure 332. Make shelf strip E 
4 inches wide, nail a 3-inch strip to one edge for 
apron F, and a 2-inch strip to the other edge for 
ledge G. Bore a hole near each end of apron F, and 
a hole through each of the pair of easel uprights A, 
through which to run pegs H for pinning the shelf 
to the easel. The chalk-rail may be removed when 
the easel is wanted for a map rack. 

Stain, Paint or Enamel may be used for finishing 
the easel. 


Chapter XIX 

FOE THE COAT-EOOM 

A Coat-and-Hat-Rack for a Wall—A Portable Rack—A Whisk- 
Broom Holder—A Shoe-Polishing Case—A Waste-Basket. 

Perhaps no provision has been made in yonr 
church building for a coat-room, and each member 
of the congregation and each member of the Sunday 
school must take care of his coat, hat, umbrella and 
rubbers as best he can, piling them on vacant pews 
or chairs. But coat-rooms are coming into their own 
as a necessary adjunct to the modern church; in 
buildings where no room has been provided, space 
is being partitioned off for the purpose. Partitions 
are so easily and so cheaply built of wallboard, now¬ 
adays, that a church may have conveniences which 
once might have been considered luxurious. 


A COAT-AND-HAT-RACK FOR A WATT, 

Some of us have become so accustomed to hang¬ 
ing our coats and hats upon hooks at home, that we 
think of a coat-room as a space equipped like our 
clothes-closet. But that is not the ideal arrange¬ 
ment. Hats hung on hooks do not ‘ ‘ stay put,’ ’ espe¬ 
cially when there is an after-service rush for the 
coat-room, presaging hot dinners with the least pos- 


231 


FOR THE COAT-ROOM 

sible loss of time. Then, we might as well look upon 
the floor first as last. Much confusion and annoy¬ 
ance is avoided, of course, through the employment 
of coat-room attendants; but the approved system 



FlG. 333. A COAT-AND-HAT-RACK FOR A WALL 


used in all large checking-rooms is a hat-rack above 
each row of hooks. 

Figure 333 shows a home-made rack that has 
proved satisfactory. There is a rod for coat-hang¬ 
ers, instead of hooks, and above the rod are two 
tiers of hat-racks. Hangers keep one’s clothing in 
better shape than hooks. With these arranged as 
shown in Figure 333, coats can be hung close to- 







232 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


gether, like clothing at a dealer’s, thus requiring a 
minimum of wall space. 

The Rack in Figure 333 is supported by two end 
brackets, each built up as shown in Figure 334, of 



upright A, horizontal pieces B and C, and diagonals 
D and E. Cut these out of 2-by-2s, planed smooth 
on all sides, following the given dimensions. Cut a 
%-inch bevel on one end of pieces B and C, and bore 
a 1-inch hole through piece B at H, for the hanger 
rod to run through. Nail the rack members together 
with 16-penny finishing-nails. 














FOR THE COAT-ROOM 233 

Hat-bars %-inch thick and 1% inches wide (F, 
Fig. 334) are more satisfactory than board shelves, 
because there is less chance of the collection of dust. 
Their length will be determined by the length of the 
rack required. The distance between supports, how¬ 
ever, should not exceed 10 feet. 

The Hanger Rod. For this get a piece of %-inch 
galvanized iron pipe and two pipe caps (Fig. 335) 
from a plumber. Have the pipe cut 1 inch longer 
than the rack, and threaded on both ends. Slip the 



Fig. 335. AN IRON PIPE HANGER ROD 


pipe through the holes bored in the end brackets, 
and screw a cap on each end to hold it in position. 

Coat Hangers cost little more than coat hooks. 
Most 10-cent stores sell the wire variety at 5 cents 
apiece. 

Finishing . Paint or stain the woodwork of the 
rack, and paint or enamel the pipe hanger rod. Fas¬ 
ten the rack to the wall with lag-screws. These are 
screws with square heads that are turned with a 
wrench. 


A PORTABLE RACK 

The coat-and-hat-rack shown in Figure 336 is used, 
in addition to wall-racks, in most checking-rooms of 
any size. It is usually stood in the center of the 
room. It is particularly adapted for use in the 







234 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

church building since it is mounted on casters and 
can be pushed out into one of the main rooms, or 



FlG. 336. THIS PORTABLE RACK HAS .CAPACITY FOR FIFTY COATS AND HATS 
AND IS A GOOD TYPE OF RACK FOR A COAT-ROOM 


taken out on 'the lawn, whenever occasions arise to 
use it there. 

The rack illustrated has twenty-five coat-hooks on 




























FOR THE COAT-ROOM 235 

each side, thereby accommodating the wraps of fifty 
people. Racks above the hooks hold hats. Pipes 



Fig. 337. CROSS-SECTION OF portable rack 
Fig. 338. DETAILS OF END POSTS AND RUNNER BLOCKS 

can be substituted for hanger rods, in place of hooks, 
as the wall-rack shown in Figure 333 is equipped. 
The End Supports are built up of a 4-by-4-inch 























236 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


post A (Fig. 337), runner block B, a pair of brace 
blocks C, and a 2-by-4 top plate D. Figure 338 shows 
how these pieces are assembled. Center runner 
block B and top plate D on the post ends and spike 
them to the post. 



Figs 339 - 340 - this is the way to cut the post mortises 

Mortising the Posts. Mortise the side faces of 
posts A, and the upper face of runner blocks B, as 
shown, for the brace blocks C to sit in. Also, mor¬ 
tise the inner face of the posts at the top and the 
bottom, to receive the ends of base and hook rails 
E and F. 






FOR THE COAT-ROOM 


237 


As brackets C and hook rail F are to be cut from 
%-mch stock, it will be best to use a %-inch chisel 
for cutting the mortises for them, because the entire 
width can then be cut in one operation. Start cut¬ 
ting at the center of the space marked oft for a 
mortise, holding the chisel with the bevel of the 
blade toward you, as shown in Figure 339. Drive 
the chisel into the wood to a depth of % inch or so, 
withdraw the blade, set it about % inch back of the 
cut, and drive it in again; reset and drive it in a 
third time, a fourth time, and so on until the end 
of the mortise has been reached. Pry out the 
wood between the cuts, as you proceed. Having 
cut from the center to one end, start at the center 
again and work to the other end of the mortise. 
Working over the surface a second time, increase the 
depth of the mortise another % inch. Three-quar¬ 
ters of an inch is deep enough for mortises for brace 
blocks C, but the mortises for the ends of rails E and 
F should be 1% inches deep. Figure 340 shows how 
to square up the ends of the mortise with the flat 
side of the chisel. The mortise for the end of base 
rail E must be 1% inches wide. A chisel narrower 
than this can be used for cutting it. 

The Horizontal Rails . The widths of base rail E 
and hook rail F are shown in Figure 337. The 
length for a rack with twenty-five hooks on a side 
should be 6 feet 8 inches. This allows 1% inches 
at each end to set into the post mortises. The upper 
corner of hook rail F must be cut away, as shown in 
Figure 338, to fit around plate D. Fasten the rails 
in the mortises with glue. 






238 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


The Hat-racks have l-by-2-inch bars, the lower 
ones (H, Fig. 337) supported on top plates D, the up¬ 
per ones (I, Fig. 337) on two end brackets (G). Cut 
the brackets of the shape and size shown, out of a 
%-inch board. Notice by Figure 336 that the lower 
bars fit between brackets G. Space the bars as 
shown and nail them in place. 

The Hooks should be of the type shown in Figure 
341. Draw two lines lengthwise of the hook rail F, 



Fig. 341 Fig. 342 

Fig. 341. use strong iron hooks of this form 
Fig. 342. THE CASTERS SHOULD be large and ball-bearing 

one line along the center of the board, the other half¬ 
way between this line and the lower edge. On the 
upper line mark off the positions for twelve hooks, 
on the lower line positions for thirteen. Make the 
spacing exactly 6 inches from center to center of 
the hooks. Stagger the hooks on one side of the 
board so their screws will not strike those of the 
hooks on the opposite side. 

The Casters should be 2 inches in diameter and 
ball-bearing. Screw them to runner blocks B near 
the ends (Fig. 336). 

Check Numbers can be purchased of metal or card¬ 
board for numbering the coat hooks. Tack them di¬ 
rectly above the coat hooks as shown in Figure 336. 



FOR THE COAT-ROOM 


239 



FlG. 343. THE SHOE-POLISHING CASE WILL BE IN BIG DEMAND IN RAINY 

WEATHER 

Fig 344 use a square, or nearly square, soap box for the top 
* FlG. 345. MAKE THE LEGS LIKE THIS 

Fig. 346. THESE BLOCKS FORM THE SHOE-REST 































































240 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

Buy a duplicate set of numbers to issue in checking. 
The place for the hat is directly over the coat hook— 
the upper rack for even numbers, the lower one for 
odd numbers. 

Finish the Rack with stain and shellac or paint. 


A WHISK-BROOM HOLDER 

A coat-room attendant has frequent requests for a 
whisk-broom, and a holder for one will be a good 
piece of equipment to provide. You will find a plan 
for a holder in Figure 59, Chapter III. 

A SHOE-POLISHING CASE 

A muddy street crossing, an unnoticed or unavoid- 
able puddle, and splashes from a passing automobile 
rum many a shoe-shine between home and church. 
A first-aid polishing-case with rags, brushes, and 
cans of polish will relieve victims of the embarrass¬ 
ment of attending services with shoes unkempt; and 
such a case should be a part of the equipment of the 
coat-room. 

The Box . A soap-box measuring 13 inches wide, 
14 inches long and 8 inches deep (Fig. 344) was used 
for the shoe-polishing case shown in Figure 343. 
This is a standard size of box, and you can pick up 
one at the grocery store if there isn’t one at home. 

. The : Le ^ s are ri PPed out of a %-inch board. Each 
is built up of two strips (Fig. 345). Cut strip A 
- inches wide and B 1 % inches wide, and make their 
length 16 inches. Nail the strips together, then nail 


241 


FOR THE COAT-ROOM 

them to the corners of the box, as shown in Figure 
343. 

The Top is made of two %-inch boards, one nailed 
to the box, the other hinged to open. Cut the pieces 
of the right size to have a projection of % inch over 
the faces of the leg strips. Set a pair of hinges in 
the edges of the pieces, as shown in Figure 343. 

The Shoe-rest fastened to the under side of the 
cover is made of two blocks (C and D, Fig. 346). 
Nail them together, then nail or screw them to the 
hinged cover board. 

Compartments for cans of cleaner and polish, 
shoe-brushes, and rags can be partitioned off inside 
of the box with box boards. 

Finishing. The shoe-polishing case can be 
stained, painted or enameled. A dark color is pref¬ 
erable, of course, because it will not show soiling. 

A WASTE-BASKET 

The coat-room requires a waste-basket, and so 
does the minister ’s study, the reading-room, and the 
Sunday school rooms. There are seldom enough of 
these receptacles in the church building. 

The Material for the waste-basket shown in Fig¬ 
ure 347 consists of wallboard for the sides, a %-inch 
board for the bottom, strips %*inch square for cor¬ 
ner posts, and laths for cleats and rim strips. 

Figure 348 shows a plan of the basket, with its 
parts lettered. Cut the wallboard sides A and B by 
the patterns of Figures 349 and 350. You can saw 
wallboard as easily as boards. Sawing will make 




242 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


rough edges, but these can be removed quickly by 
rubbing with sandpaper. Cut the corner posts C 
by the pattern of Figure 351. 

To assemble the basket, first tack wallboard sides 
A to posts C, as shown in Fig. 349; then cut a pair 



Fig. 347. there is need of several 

OF THESE WALLBOARD WASTE-BAS¬ 
KETS IN THE CHURCH BUILDING 


of lath cleats (D, Fig. 352), fit them between posts 
C and tack sides A to them (Fig. 349). Next, tack 
sides B to the posts, being careful to set their edges 
exactly even with the edges of sides A, which they 
overlap. Cut the bottom board by the pattern of 
Figure 355, notching the corners to fit around the 

























FOR THE COAT-ROOM 


243 


posts. This board rests upon the cleats D and is 
fastened with carpet tacks driven through the side 
pieces into its edges. Cut the rim strips by the pat- 



Fig. 352 


Fig. 353 Fig. 354 


FlG. 348. PLAN OF WALLBOARD WASTE-BASKET 

Figs. 349 and 350. patterns for wallboard sides 
Figs. 351-354. patterns for framework strips 
Fig. 355. bottom board 


terns of Figures 353 and 354, fasten them to the cor¬ 
ner posts, and tack the wallboard to them. 

Finishing. Give the wallboard two coats of paint. 
Then apply two coats of enamel to all surfaces. If 
you have had any experience in stenciling, you might 
stencil a design on the sides of the basket. 






































Chapter XX 

BOOTHS FOR CHURCH BAZAARS 

A Fancywork Booth—A Pergola Booth—A Flower Booth—An 
Ice-Cream Booth—An Old-Well Grab-Booth—Knock-Down 
Booths—A Handicraft Booth. 

The annual church fair will provide work for all 
willing to devote time and energy to it, and you and 
the other boys of the Sunday school can be impor¬ 
tant factors in its success. In the first place, you can 
construct the booths. That will be a service that 
the ladies are not keen about performing and 
that the men seldom have time for. In addition, 
you can make pieces of handicraft for the sale, and 
what is more your class can rig up a booth in which 
to sell toys and gifts that you have made. 

Among the various forms of booths to be found 
at fairs may be mentioned those for fancywork, 
handkerchiefs, baby clothes, mending, notions, novel¬ 
ties, toilet articles, candy, refreshments, groceries, 
girls’ handicraft, boys’ handicraft, books and maga¬ 
zines, flowers and plants, and bird houses and gar¬ 
den accessories. 

The number of booths will be dependent upon the 
size of the hall the fair is to be held in and the 
amount of cooperation to be given the bazaar com¬ 
mittee by church members. The form may be as 
varied as the articles to be sold. I have seen square 

244 



Fig. 356. A FANCYWORK BOOTH 



© DENNISON MFG. CO. 


[Facing page 244 





























BOOTHS FOR CHURCH BAZAARS 


245 


booths, round booths, and booths of irregular shape; 
old-well and fish-pond grab-booths; booths built like 
a large doll’s house, and in the form of a Dutch 
windmill, a gypsy camp, a cave, a pavilion; booths 
representative of different nationalities; others typi¬ 
fying the seasons of the year; Mother Goose booths; 
and booths rigged up on carts (A Push-cart Fair). 

Several clever designs for easily-built booths are 
shown in the sketches opposite page 244. These are 
reproduced by courtesy of Dennison Manufacturing 
Company,* makers of crepe papers and other ma¬ 
terials necessary for dressing up booth frameworks 
and for decorating the hall. I shall give you a few 
suggestions for constructing these booths. 

A FANCYWORK BOOTH 

The L-shaped booth shown in Figure 356 is a good 
one to set up in a corner of the hall. By pressing 
into service two of the church tables and placing 
them at right angles for counters, it will only be nec¬ 
essary to erect corner posts to support the overhead 
decorations. For posts get 2-by-2 inch material, 
s-4-s (surfaced-four-sides) at a lumber yard. Four¬ 
teen-foot lengths cut in half will be about right. 
Wire these posts to the table-legs. A wooden strip 
fitted between the posts at the floor will furnish a 
ground to tack material to for enclosing the front of 
the counter. 

* A helpful booklet, “How to Decorate Halls, Booths and Automo¬ 
biles,” can be obtained from Dennison Manufacturing Co., Framing¬ 
ham, Mass., for ten cents. 


246 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


A PERGOLA BOOTH 

The design shown in Figure 357 will introduce 
some outdoor atmosphere. Two tables, four 4-by-4 
posts, two 2-by-4 beams, and half a dozen or so 1-by- 
2 strips for purlins, are needed. It is not likely that 
you will be permitted to nail the corner posts to the 
floor. In that case, it will be necessary to place a 2- 
by-4 floor plate around the base to spike the posts to, 
or to stand the tables in the right positions so the 
posts can be fastened to their corners. Vines and 
flowers for decorating the pergola can be made of 
crepe-paper or purchased ready-made. 

A FLOWER BOOTH 

A booth like that in Figure 358 can be rigged up 
on a small table; or boards placed across a pair of 
horses, as shown in Figure 361, may be used for the 
counter. Heavy wires bent into loops make good 
arches to decorate with vines and flowers. Bend the 
ends of the wire loops as shown in Figure 361 and 
fasten them to the edges of the table boards. Lat¬ 
tice strips can be substituted for the wire arches. 
The strips will bend readily into the shape desired 
after soaking for a short time in water. 

AN ICE-CREAM BOOTH 

Two or three small refreshment booths like that 
shown in Figure 359 generally realize a larger sales 
total than ope large booth. The counter may be a 


BOOTHS FOR CHURCH BAZAARS 


247 


table, or may be built up of boards and horses, as 
shown in Figure 361. The large ice-cream cones 
can be made of heavy brown wrapping-paper, rolled 
into cornucopias, and reenforced on the inside with 
laths. Crushed white crepe-paper makes good imi- 



FlG. 361. BOARDS ON HORSES MAKE GOOD TABLES FOR BOOTHS 
Make the framework for the booth shown in Fig. 358 like this 


tation ice-cream. The small cones can be made simi¬ 
larly or may be ice-cream cones. Dark brown, pink 
and white are good colors to use for decorating the 
booth. Strips of “icicles’’ like those shown along 
the front of the table can be cut out of white paper. 
The “ice-cream bricks’’ on the face of the counter 
are candy-boxes painted to represent layers of dif¬ 
ferent flavors of ice-cream. 















248 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


AN OLD-WELL GRAB-BOOTH 

For this ever-popular and consequently profitable 
type of booth, the old-well adaptation shown in 



Figure 360 is worth the trouble of building. The de¬ 
tail of the completed well (Fig. 362), and the detail 






































BOOTHS FOR CHURCH BAZAARS 249 

of the completed framework (Fig. 363), show exactly 
how to set up the booth. 

Material. The framework of the well requires 
two 2-by-2s 6 feet long for posts A, three pieces of 
lattice-strip 16 feet long, or six pieces 8 feet long, for 
hoops B for the well-curb and the roof, and laths for 
uprights C of the curb framework and roof rafters 
D. 

The Well-curb. Bend the lattice-strips into hoops 
about 5 feet in diameter, and fasten the ends to¬ 
gether with brads. Nail two of these hoops to posts 
A, one at the floor, the other 3 feet above the floor. 
Then cut the six lath uprights C 3 feet long and fas¬ 
ten them to the curb hoops, spacing them equidis- 
tantly. Cover the curb framework with building- 
paper or heavy wrapping-paper. 

The Roof is framed with eight or nine laths 3 
feet 9 inches long. Drill holes through the peak ends 
of the laths, run a piece of wire through the holes, 
and twist the wire ends together. Drill another hole 
through each lath 8 inches from the lower end, and 
run a wire through each hole for wiring the laths to 
the rafter hoop B. 

The roof framework must be covered with build¬ 
ing-paper or wrapping-paper. Then build it up with 
paper until the rafters no longer show through, and 
the surface is as nearly conical as you can make it. 
A top covering of paper should then be added. 

The Windlass is made of a curtain-pole (E, Fig. 
364), a short block (F) and a dowel-stick or other 
stick (G). Bore a hole through each post 4 feet 
above the base, through which to run the shaft of 



250 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 



Fig. 363 


Fig. 363. DETAIL OF FRAMEWORK OF WELL BOOTH 
FlG. 364. DETAIL OF WINDLASS 
Fig. 365. PULLEY FOR WELL ROPE 























































































BOOTHS FOR CHURCH BAZAARS 


251 


the windlass. Drill holes for pins to keep the shaft 
from pulling through the post holes when set in posi¬ 
tion. Nails can be used for pins. 

The Old Oaken Bucket may be a wooden pail or a 
tin pail covered with bark. Use a piece of clothes¬ 
line for the well rope, and fasten a clothes-line pul¬ 
ley (H, Figs. 363 and 365) in the peak of the roof 
for it to run over. 

Finishing . The roof of the well may be left plain, 
as shown in Figure 362, or it may be shingled, as 
shown in Figure 360. Shingles may be cut out of 
building-paper or cardboard. Paint the well-curb 
gray for masonry, and indicate field stones by mark¬ 
ing off the interstices with black paint. Figure 360 
suggests how the curb and posts may be decorated 
with artificial, hollyhocks and vines. 

The interior of the well must be blocked off except 
at the center to conceal the person who puts in the 
“grabs.’’ The covering may be made of wallboard 
painted to look like water. 

KNOCK-DOWN BOOTHS 

Inasmuch as booths are required at least once a 
year by the average church, a scheme for a knock¬ 
down framework would save considerable time and 
confusion in getting the hall ready for a bazaar. 

Pipe Frameworks are excellent, not only for coun¬ 
ters but also for canopies. I have seen all of the 
booths at a bazaar made in this manner, and there 
seems to be no limit to the variety of designs that 
can be devised. With the pipe cut to two of three 



252 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

lengths, or not to exceed half a dozen, and with the 
proper assortment of fittings, the matter of assem¬ 
bling a booth framework is reduced to as simple a 
formula as that for setting up a smaller framework 
of Meccano or other toy-construction material. 

The only possible objection to the use of pipe 
would be its cost. Under fortunate circumstances 
this might be eliminated or reduced considerably 
through large discounts. Boards are required in 
addition to the pipe and fittings, but these as well as 
the material for enclosing the frameworks can be 
used from year to year, if packed away with the 
pipe. 

Wooden Frameworks can be designed and built to 
set up and bolt together in sections, and if there is 
room in the church building for the storage of 
“knock-down” frames, this is the most economical 
form of framework. 

A HANDICEAPT BOOTH 

The booth shown in the photograph of Figure 366 
is a good “knock-down” model. It is well adapted 
to the display of articles that a boys’ class has made 
for the bazaar, but it will serve for other lines, too. 
In fact, with the comer-post bird-houses eliminated, 
the design might be used for all of the main booths. 
Figure 367 shows a detail of the completed frame¬ 
work, with parts lettered to correspond with the 
other working-drawings. Figure 368 shows a detail 
of the front and rear frame sections of the frame¬ 
work; Figure 370 shows a detail of the four upper 



Fig. 366. 


a “knock-down” booth like this can be 
YEAR TO YEAR 


PRESERVED FROM 
[Facing page 252 

















































BOOTHS FOR CHURCH BAZAARS 253 

lattice-work panels, two of which are used in the 
front and rear frames, and two for joining these 



Fig. 367. FRAMEWORK OF THE BOOTH SHOWN IN THE PHOTOGRAPH OF 
FIGURE 366 


frames at the sides; Figure 371 shows a detail of the 
two lower side frames. 

The Material. For corner posts A, plates B and 
braces C buy 2-by-2s; for strips D and E of the lat¬ 
tice-work panels buy l-by-2s (Fig. 369), for diago- 






















254 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


nals F laths or lattice-strips (Fig. 370), for counters 
I 12-inch boards, and for shelves J 8-inch boards. 



-7 -O'--j 


Fig. 368. DETAIL OF FRONT AND REAR FRAMES OF THE FRAMEWORK 
FOR THE “KNOCK-DOWN” BOOTH 

These pieces should be ordered surfaced-four-sides, 
so you will not have to bother planing them. It will 
be best to use soft pine, or other light-weight easily 
worked wood. 

















BOOTHS FOR CHURCH BAZAARS 


255 


The Front and Rear Frames should be built first, 
as shown in the detail of Figure 368. With the 
pieces cut to the lengths marked, fasten plates B be¬ 
tween posts A with 10-penny finishing nails, at the 
heights shown. Then cut the diagonal braces C with 
their ends mitered, and nail them to the corner posts 
and to the counter plate. 



"T 

k* 



si 

<r> 



L 

6'-8i" 

—J 

i 


Fig. 369 . FRAME FOR LATTICE-WORK PANEL 


The Lattice-work Panels require a frame built up 
of the l-by-2-inch strips D and E (Fig. 369). Cut 
the lattice-strips F with mitered ends; also, cut two 
blocks of wood for spacing them at equal distances 
apart. Nail one layer of strips to the frame slant- 



FlG. 370. DETAIL OF LATTICE-WORK PANEL 


ing in one direction, then a second layer on top of 
them slanting in the opposite direction, as shown in 
Figure. 370. Make four panels. Place one between 
the upper ends of the front frame, another between 
the upper ends of the rear frame, and fasten with 

















256 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

finishing-nails and a pair of 2-by-2 inch iron braces 
(H, Fig. 368). 

The Side Frames . Two of the lattice-work^panels, 
and a pair of frames built up as shown in Figure 371 
of strips B and G braced with the diagonals C, con- 



6 - 84 ” 


Fig. 371. frame for connecting front and rear frames 

nect the front and rear frames. To provide for bolt¬ 
ing the sections together, bore two ^-inch holes 
through each end of the side panel frames and two 
through each of the lower side frames; also, bore 

L. J ~ 

U-6'-e|"_ 

Fig. 372. display shelf 

holes through posts A, taking measurements from 
the side frames to locate the holes in corresponding 
positions. Eight 2-inch stove-bolts will be required, 
but you had better buy a dozen so there will be some 
on hand to replace bolts lost. 

















BOOTHS FOR CHURCH BAZAARS 


257 


The Counters require 12-inch boards, two as long 
as the over-all width of the booth, for the front and 
rear counters (I, Fig. 373) and two shorter pieces to 
fit between them for the side counters. Fasten these 
boards to the framework plates with screws, and to 
each other with angle braces, so they can be removed 
without damaging them. 

The Display Shelves (J, Figs. 368 and 372) are 
made of 8-inch boards of the length of the lattice- 
work panels. Round the corners as shown, and screw 
a shelf to the upper edge of each panel. 


L 

a 


r'f 

u liL- 


-*7 - o’l 


Fig. 373. counter board 


The Bird-House Caps for the posts may be built 
like the wren house described in Chapter VII, or ac¬ 
cording to any plan you prefer. These houses may 
be tagged for sale with the other articles exhibited 
in the booth. 

Finishing . The framework of the booth may be 
stained or painted. I would suggest that you stain 
it brown or green. Enclose the sides below the coun¬ 
ter with denim or burlap, tacking the material to the 
corner posts, the counter edges and the lower plates. 
Decorate the lattice-work panels with leaves pro¬ 
cured in the woods or made of crepe-paper. 






Chapter XXI 

A SANTA CLAUS FIREPLACE AND A 
TREE BASE 

A Fireplace and Mantel—A Realistic Fire Effect—A Cross 
Standard for a Christmas Tree—A Box Standard. 

It is worth while to build a fireplace for Santa 
Claus to make his entrance through at the Christmas 
Sunday school entertainment, because it can be kept 
from year to year, and its usefulness need not pass 
with the holidays. It is a good stage property for 
interior scenes in Sunday school dramatics. Of 
course, a grate-fire is not wanted for Santa Claus, 
but when the fireplace is used in other stage settings, 
a realistic fire effect is desirable, and it can be easily 
produced, as I shall explain later. 

A FIREPLACE AND MANTEL 

The mantel shown in Figure 374 has been designed 
to stand against a wall, but to enable Santa Claus 
to enter the fireplace through the back, you can stand 
it against a doorway, concealing the upper part of 
the opening with wallboard or a drapery; or you 
can construct a wallboard chimney-breast from the 
mantel-shelf to the ceiling, setting this far enough 
from the wall to make a place of concealment be¬ 
hind the mantel for Santa Claus. 

258 


A SANTA CLAUS FIREPLACE 


259 


The Mantel Framework is shown in Figure 375. 
The height for the shelf of the model illustrated is 4 
feet, the width of the mantel is 4 feet 6 inches; the 
jamb each side of the fireplace opening is 9 inches; 


J_L 



Fig. 374. this santa claus fireplace and mantel can 

ALSO BE USED AS A PROPERTY FOR PLAYS 


the height of the fireplace opening is 30 inches. You 
can vary these dimensions, however, as you see fit. 

Make the mantel ends of boards 10 inches wide 
(A), the shelf (B) of two boards of the right width 
and length to make a projection of 3 inches over the 

























260 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


front and ends. Nail the shelf boards to the end 
pieces, then cut the l-by-2 crosspieces C to fit be¬ 
tween the end boards, and fasten one directly below 
the shelf, the other at the height of the fireplace 



Fig. 375. BUILD THE MANTEL FRAMEWORK LIKE THIS 


opening. Cut the I-by-2 strips D to fit between the 
lower crosspiece C and the floor, at the sides of the 
fireplace opening, and cut the 2-by-4 blocks E to fit 
between their lower ends and end boards A. A 
board 4 inches wide by the length of the shelf (F), 

































A SANTA CLAUS FIREPLACE 261 

fastened to the back edge of the shelf, will complete 
the framework. 

Make the mantel front of one piece of wallboard 
(Fig. 376). Place the piece against the framework 
and mark off the fireplace opening on it. Cnt out 
the opening with a saw or a jack-knife. It will be 



Fig. 376. WALLBOARD FACING OF MANTEL 


best to fit and tack a strip of wallboard to each end 
board of the mantel, also. 

The Fireplace . Make the back and ends of this of 
three pieces of wallboard fastened to pieces of l-by-2 
(Fig. 377). Make this only as high as is necessary 
to keep the audience from seeing over it. Extend it 
back far enough so that Santa Claus can easily step 
over it from back of the mantel, in making his en¬ 
trance. 

A Hearth may be made of a piece of wallboard, 
marked off to represent brick or tile. 








262 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


The Brickwork should be painted a good brick red. 
A paint dealer will help you in the selection of the 
shade. Give the wallboard two coats of this. Then 
mark off the mortar joints with a pencil and a yard¬ 
stick, or other straight-edge, and strike the joints 
with black paint. 



Fig. 377. MAKE THE BACK OF THE FIREPLACE LIKE THIS 


When the brickwork has been painted, finish the 
shelf to match the woodwork of the room in which 
the mantel is used. 


A REALISTIC FIRE EFFECT 

When the fireplace is used for stage settings, a 
good fire effect is easily produced with an electric 
drop-cord and photographer’s ruby-lamp, or with an 
ordinary electric-light lamp covered with red cloth 
but not brought into direct contact with the cloth. 
The lamp must be placed on the bottom of the fire- 










































A SANTA CLAUS FIREPLACE 263 

place, and firewood piled around and over it. If you 
can borrow a set of andirons to support the logs, so 
much the better. 

Glowing Embers may be simulated with a sign- 
flasher and a clear and a ruby lamp, the latter con¬ 
nected with the flasher. The flashing on and off of 
the ruby lamp will produce the desired effect. 



Fig. 378. THE CROSS STANDARD for a tree 


Flames may be simulated with red ribbon and an 
electric-fan. Fasten short lengths of the ribbon to 
the “burning” logs and place the electric-fan below 
the logs to make the ribbons flutter. 

A CROSS STANDARD FOR A CHRISTMAS TREE 

If your church owns one of the latest types of re¬ 
volving bases for its Christmas tree, or any of the 
approved iron bases, there will be no need of a home- 


264 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


made base like that shown in Figure 378 unless you 
decide to set up more than one tree, or your class 
“goodfellow” plans include the trimming of a tree 
for a needy family. 

In case a base is required, the cross type of 
wooden standard is probably the easiest to make. 
This base requires two pieces of 2-by-4 20 inches 
long (A and B, Fig. 379) halved together—that is, a 



Fig- 379 


Fig. 380 


Figs. 379 and 380. details of the cross standard 


piece is cut from the center of each block.equal to the 
width of, and one-half of the thickness of, the other 
piece, as shown in Figure 380, so the pieces will in¬ 
terlock. Saw along the sides of the notches, then 
split out the wood between the saw cuts with a chisel. 
The hole for the tree should be at least 2 inches in 
diameter. If you haven’t an expansive bit that you 
can set to cut a hole of this diameter, bore a ring of 
small holes, and trim up to the 2-inch diameter with 
a chisel. Nail the shoe-blocks C to the under side of 
A and B, at the ends. It is not necessary to nail A 
to B if you make them fit snugly. 


A SANTA CLAUS FIREPLACE 265 

Finish the standard green or red with stain made 
of oil paint thinned with turpentine. 


A BOX STANDARD FOR THE TREE 

The tree base»shown in Figure 381 requires a soap¬ 
box (Fig. 382) and four pairs of strips crossed and 
nailed together to form two sockets like that shown 
in Figure 383. Make one socket to fasten in the box 



Fig. 381. a box standard for a tree 


bottom, the other to fasten across the top edges of 
the box (Fig. 384). Space the strips so that there 
will be an opening of 1% or % inches square to ac¬ 
commodate the tree trunk. If the tree proves to be 
smaller than the socket opening, drive in wedges 
around it; if it is larger, whittle away the edges of 
the strips as much as is necessary to accommodate 
the tree trunk. 

Finishing. When the base has been assembled, 
cover the sides of the box with red paper. Paper 
with a brick pattern printed on it can be purchased, 



266 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 

or you can use plain red paper and indicate brick 
courses and joints by pasting strips of white paper 
to it. The snow-capped top of the base is formed 



Fig. 384 

Figs. 382 - 384 . details of the box standard 


of cotton with artificial snow sprinkled over it. Of 
course, this cannot be put on until after the tree has 
been set up. 








INDEX 



INDEX 


A 

Absent member reminders, 186; 
startling reminder, 186; fire¬ 
cracker report card, 188. 

Animals, cork, 27. 

Animals and birds for Noah’s 
ark, 74; working material, 
74; cutting, 74; mounting, 
75; coloring, 75. 

Ark, Noah’s, 68; material, 68; 
laying out and cutting the 
parts, 69; assembling, 70; 
roof, 72; mounting, 72; fin¬ 
ishing, 72; birds and ani¬ 
mals, 74; working material, 
74; cutting, 74; mounting, 
75; coloring, 75. 

Attendance awards, 174, 185. 

Attendance booster tags, 185. 

Attendance thermometers and 
dials, 194; new member con¬ 
tests, 194; how to make an 
attendance thermometer, 196; 
two-tube contest thermom¬ 
eter, 199; attendance dial, 
200 . 

B 

Backwards social invitation, 
189. 

Banks and contribution boxes, 
203; mite box, 203; contribu¬ 
tion box, 204; large contri¬ 
bution box, 209. 


Banners, pennants, staffs and 
bases, 166; staffs, 166; four- 
wing base, 168; base with 
pipe-fitting socket, 168; small 
staff and base for a table, 
172; small base for a pen¬ 
nant, 173; spool base, 173; 
finishing staffs and bases, 
173; perfect attendance 
awards, 174; banners and 
pennants, 174; star banner, 
174; concrete base for a flag, 
178; round concrete base, 
178. 

Base, a four-wing banner and» 
pennant, 168; with pipe-fit¬ 
ting socket, 168; for table, 
172; small, for pennant, 173; 
spool, 173; finishing, 173; 
concrete, for flag, 178; round 
concrete, 178. 

Basket, waste-, 241; material, 
241; assembling, 242; finish¬ 
ing, 243. 

Bath, concrete bird, 99; pedes¬ 
tal, 101. 

Bazaar, handicraft for the 
church, 46; things to make, 
46; working materials, 47; 
whisk-broom holder, 47; 
candle-sticks, 49; thermom¬ 
eter board, 51; calendar- 
board and pen-rack, 54; 
post-card rack, 55; clock- 
shelf, 55; broom-holder, 56; 
holder for safety matches, 56. 


270 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


Bazaar booths, 244; fancywork 
booth, 245; pergola booth, 
246; flower booth, 246; ice¬ 
cream booth, 246; old-well 
grab-booth, 248; knock-down 
booths, 251; handicraft booth, 
252. 

Bed, cork toy, 30. 

Bench, box, 15. 

Bench, work-, 12; bench-vise, 
15; sliding-strip, 15; bench- 
stop, 15. 

Bible school, toy problems for 
daily vacations (see Toy 
Problems). 

Bird bath, concrete, 99; form, 
100; mixture, 100; casting, 
100; pedestal, 101; footing, 
101; base, 101; form, 101; 
casting, 103; basin, 104. 

Bird house, Red Cross wren, 89; 
another wren, 94; bluebird, 
96; woodpecker, 96; caps for 
handicraft bazaar booth, 257. 

Birds and animals for Noah’s 
ark, 74; working material, 
74; cutting, 74; mounting, 
75; coloring, 75. 

Blackboard, 155. 

Blackboards and an easel, 224; 
wallboard and lath black¬ 
board, 224; combination 

blackboard and bulletin 
board, 228; easel for black¬ 
boards and maps, 229. 

Bluebird house, 96; spires, 96; 
pipe supports, 96. 

Bookcase with curtained front, 
123; material, 123; cutting 
parts and assembling, 123; 
finishing, 124. 

Book-ends, 107; finishing, 107. 


Bookrack, Thomas Bailey Al¬ 
drich, 116; material, 116; 
parts, 118; assembling, 120; 
hangers, 121; another form 
of, 121; material, 121; cut¬ 
ting parts, 121; assembling, 
121 . 

Book-troughs, ends, racks and 
cases, 105; book-trough, 105; 
book-ends, 107; wall-rack, 
110; rack for dodgers, pro¬ 
grams, or mail, 111; maga¬ 
zine-rack, 113; Thomas 
Bailey Aldrich bookrack, 
116; another form of book- 
rack, 121; bookcase with cur¬ 
tained front, 123. 

Booster tags, attendance, 185; 
“I Am a Booster,” 185; “I 
Am Early,” 185; rain checks, 
186. 

Booths for church bazaars, 
244; fancywork booth, 245; 
pergola booth, 246; flower 
booth, 246; ice-cream booth, 
246; old-well grab-booth, 
248; knock-down booths, 
251; handicraft booth, 252. 

Broom-holder, 56. 

Bulletin board, indoor, 221; 
with glass front, 221; inner 
frame, 222; outer frame, 
223; assembling, 223. 

Bulletin board on posts, 212; 
material, 213; corner posts, 
215; rails and panel boards, 
215; assembling, 215; can¬ 
opy, 216; finishing, 217; 
erecting, 217. 

Bulletin board, portable, 218; 
cypress, 219; parts, 220; as¬ 
sembling, 220; finishing, 220. 


INDEX 


271 


Bulletin or paper, church or 
Sunday school, 191; staff, 
192; printers, 192; machine 
type-setting, 192; engraving, 
192; specimens, 193. 

C 

Cabinet, filing-, 126; altering a 
box for, 127; legs, 128; top, 
128; index cards, 129; finish¬ 
ing, 130. 

Cabinet, pamphlet and picture, 
130; construction of, 133; 
assembling, 133; front, 134; 
cabinet doors, 135; finishing, 
135. 

Calendar-board and pen-rack, 
54. 

Candle-sticks, 49. 

Casting concrete bird baths, 
100, 103. 

Chair, cork toy, 30. 

Chair hat-rack, 155. 

Chalk-rail, blackboard, 155, 
227; easel, 229. 

Check numbers, coat-rack, 238. 

Class, for the Sunday school, 
142; class table, 142; pedes¬ 
tal, 146; class gavel, 148; 
class screen, 149; chair hat- 
rack, 155. 

Clippings, arranging, 136; in¬ 
dexing, 139; envelope file for, 
139. 

Clock-shelf, 55. 

Coat-and-hat-rack, portable, 
233; end supports, 235; 
mortising corner posts, 236; 
horizontal rails, 237; hat- 
racks, 238; hooks, 238; cast¬ 
ers, 238; check numbers, 238; 
finish, 240. 


Coat-and-hat-rack, wall, 230; 
construction of, 232; hat- 
bars, 233; hanger rod, 233; 
coat hangers, 233; finishing, 
233. 

Coat-room, for the, 230; coat- 
and-hat-rack for a wall, 230; 
portable rack, 233; whisk- 
broom holder, 240; shoe-pol¬ 
ishing case, 240; waste¬ 
basket, 241. 

Concrete base for a flag, 178; 
round, 178. 

Concrete bird bath, 99; pedes¬ 
tal, 101; mixture for, 100; 
casting, 100, 103. 

Contests, new member, 194. 

Contribution box, a small, 204; 
can money receptacle, 206; 
top and base blocks, 206; as¬ 
sembling, 208; paint, 209; a 
large box, 209; material, 209; 
parts, 209; assembling parts, 
211; finish, 211. 

Coping-saw problems, seasick 
landlubber toy, 32; ouija 
bird, 38; Tumble Tom’s 
trick ladder, 41; topsy-turvy 
blocks, 41; birds and ani¬ 
mals, 74. 

Cork toys, 25; corks and other 
working materials, 26; ani¬ 
mals, 27; horse, 27; funny 
porcupine, 28; pig, 28; pig- 
rich bird, 28; duck, 29; 
teeter, 29; furniture, 30; bed, 
30; chair, 30; table, 31; pots 
for toy plants, 32; javelin, 
32. 

Covers, scrapbook, 136. 


272 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


D 

Daily vacation Bible school 
problems (see Toy Prob¬ 
lems). 

Dial, attendance, 200; dial 
back, 201; graduations, 201; 
large hand, 201; small hand, 
202; finishing, 202. 

Duck, cork toy, 29. 

E 

Easel for blackboard and maps, 
229; support and chalk-rail, 
229; finishing, 229. 

Envelope scrap-file, 139. 


Fair, handicraft for the church 
(see Bazaar). 

Fancywork booth, 245. 

Filing-cabinet, 126; altering a 
box for, 127; legs, 128; top, 
128; index cards, 129; fin¬ 
ishing, 130. 

Filing-cabinet for pamphlets 
and pictures, 130; construc¬ 
tion, 133; assembling, 133; 
front, 134; cabinet doors, 
135; finishing, 135. 

Finishing work, 22, 36, 48, 58, 
62, 72, 75, 79, 82, 86, 89, 
92, 106, 107, 112, 116, 124, 
130, 135, 146, 147, 148, 

155, 156, 164, 173, 176, 

196, 202, 204, 209, 211, 

217, 220, 223, 226, 227, 

229, 233, 240, 241, 243, 

251, 257, 262, 265. 

Fire-cracker report card, 188 . 


Fire effect for fireplace, 262; 
glowing embers, 263; flames, 
263. 

Fireplace for Santa Claus, 258; 
mantel framework, 259; fire¬ 
place, 261; hearth, 261; 
brickwork, 262; realistic fire 
effect, 262. 

Flower booth, 246. 

Framing pictures for the school 
room, 157; passe partout pic¬ 
tures, 157; lath picture- 
frame, 160; ornate frame, 
162. 

Furniture, cork, 30. 

G 

Gavel, class, 148; finishing, 148. 

Grab-booth, old well, 248; ma¬ 
terial, 249; well-curb, 249; 
roof, 249; windlass, 249; old 
oaken bucket, 251; finishing, 
251. 

Grounds, for the Church, 84; 
plant box, 84; hanging plant 
box, 87; pedestal box, 87; 
trellis, 87; Red Cross wren 
house, 89; another wren 
house, 94; bluebird house, 
96; woodpecker house, 96; 
concrete bird bath, 99; ped¬ 
estal bird bath, 101. 

H 

Handicraft for the church 
bazaar, 46; things to make, 
46; working materials, 47; 
whisk-broom holder, 47; 
candle-sticks, 49; thermom¬ 
eter board, 51; calendar- 
board and pen-rack, 54; 


INDEX 


273 


post-card rack, 55; clock- 
shelf, 55; broom-holder, 56; 
holder for safety matches, 
56. 

Handicraft knock-down booth, 
252; material, 253; front and 
rear frames, 255; lattice- 
work panels, 255; side 
frames, 256; counters, 257; 
display shelves, 257; bird- 
house caps, 257; finishing, 
257. 

Hangers for tools, 19. 

Hanging plant box, 87. 

Hat-and-coat-rack, portable, 
233; end support, 235; mor¬ 
tising corner posts, 236; 
horizontal rails, 237; hat- 
racks, 238; hooks, 238; cast¬ 
ers, 238; check numbers, 238; 
finish, 240. 

Hat-and-coat-rack, wall, 230; 
construction, 232; hat-bars, 
233; hanger rod, 233; coat 
hangers, 233; finishing, 233. 

Hat-rack, chair, 155. 

Horse, cork toy, 27. 

I 

Ice-cream booth, 246. 

Index cards, filing-cabinet, 129. 

Indexing scrapbook, 139. 

Introduction tags, 185. 

Invitations to socials, novel, 
188; stocking social, 189; 
backwards social, 190. 

J 


K 

Knock-down booths, 251; pipe 
frameworks for, 251; wooden 
frameworks for, 252; handi¬ 
craft model of, 252. 

L 

Ladder, tumble toy, 41. 

Lath picture-frame, 160; frame 
strips, 160; frame backing, 
161; hangers, 161. 

M 

Magazine-rack, 113; material, 
113; parts, 114; assembling, 
115; finish, 116. 

Mantel for Santa Claus fire¬ 
place, 258; fireplace, 261; 
hearth, 261; brickwork, 262; 
realistic fire effect, 262. 

Member contests, new, 194. 

Member reminders, absent, 186; 
startling, 186; fire-cracker re¬ 
port card, 188. 

Mite box, 203; marking out 
the parts, 203; folding, 203. 

Model making, sand table, 64; 
materials for, 64; care of 
model properties, 66. 

Model of your church building, 
76; model of the new build¬ 
ing, 77; model of the old 
building, 78; cardboard 
model, 78; wooden model, 
81; clay or plaster model, 82. 

Mortising, 236. 

Mountains for sand table, 64. 
N 


Javelin, cork toy, 32. 


Nail-box, 20. 


274 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


Noah’s ark, 68; material, 68; 
laying out and cutting the 
parts, 69; assembling, 70; 
roof, 72; mounting, 72; fin¬ 
ishing, 72; birds and animals, 
74; working material, 74; 
cutting, 74; mounting, 75; 
coloring, 75. 

0 

Ouija bird pendulum toy, 38. 

P 

Pamphlet and picture cabinet, 
130; construction, 133; as¬ 
sembling, 133; front, 134; 
cabinet doors, 135; finishing, 
135. 

Paper or bulletin, church or 
Sunday school, 191; staff, 
192; printers, 192; machine 
type-setting, 192; engraving, 
192; specimens, 193. 

Passe partout pictures, 157; 
parts, 157; glass, 158; mat, 
158; assembling, 159; hang¬ 
ers, 160; picture material, 
160. 

Pedestal, 146; center post, 
147; top and base boards, 
147; finishing, 147. 

Pedestal plant box, 87. 

Pendulum toys, 32; seasick 
landlubber, 32; ouija bird, 
38. 

Pennants, 174. 

Pen-rack and calendar-boards, 
54. 

Pergola booth, 246. 

Picture framing, 157; passe 


partout pictures, 157; lath 
picture-frame, 160; ornate 
frame, 162. 

Pig, cork toy, 28. 

Pigrich bird, cork toy, 28. 

Plant box, 84; liner, 85; drain¬ 
age, 86; finishing, 86; a 
hanging, 87; a pedestal, 87. 

Plaster model of your church 
building, 82. 

Porcupine, cork toy, 28. 

Post-card rack, 55. 

Pots for toy plants, cork, 32. 

Printing for the Church and 
Sunday school, 182; what to 
print, 183; stock, 184; intro¬ 
duction tags, 185; attendance 
booster tags, 185; absent 
member reminders, 186; 
novel invitations to socials, 
188; church or Sunday 
school paper or bulletin, 
191. 

R 

Rack for dodgers, programs, 
or mail, 111. 

Reminders, absent member, 
186; startling, 186; fire¬ 
cracker report card, 188. 

S 

Safety match holder, 56. 

Sand table, 59; sand box, 60; 
sand box supports, 61; paint¬ 
ing, 62; materials for model 
making, 64; sand, 64; moun¬ 
tains, 64; water, 64; trees, 
65; buildings, 65; figures, 
66; care of model proper¬ 
ties, 66. 


INDEX 


275 


Santa Claus fireplace and a 
tree base, 258; fireplace and 
mantel, 258; realistic fire ef¬ 
fect, 262; cross standard for 
a Christmas tree, 263; box 
standard for the tree, 265. 

Scrapbooks, 136; home-made, 
136; covers, 136; leaves, 138; 
punching, 138; lacing, 139; 
screw-posts, 139; envelope 
scrap-file, 139. 

Screen, class, 149; material, 
151; comer posts, 152; con¬ 
necting pieces, 152; panels, 
153; chalk-rail, 155; casters, 
155; finishing, 155; black¬ 
board, 155. 

Screw-posts for scrapbooks, 
139. 

Seasick landlubber pendulum 
toy, 32. 

Shelf, clock-, 55. 

Shoe-polishing case, 240; box 
for, 240; legs, 240; top, 241; 
shoe-rest, 241; compart¬ 
ments, 241; finishing, 241. 

Slating for blackboards, 226. 

Socials, novel invitations to, 
188; stocking, 189; back¬ 
wards, 190. 

Staff for banner and pennant, 
166; a small, 172; finishing, 
173, 

Standard for Christmas tree, 
cross, 263; box, 265. 

Star banner, 174; base, 176; 
staff, 176; star, 176; laying 
out a star, 176; mounting, 
176; finishing, 176. 

Stock, printing, 184. 

Stocking social invitation, 189. 

Stop, bench-, 15. 


T 

Table, class, 142; box compart¬ 
ment, 142; drop-leaf, 143; 
legs, 143; top, 145; finishing, 
146. 

Table, cork toy, 31. 

Tags, “Hello, Friend!”; intro¬ 
duction, 185; “I Am a 
Booster,” 185; “I Am 
Early,” 185. 

Teeter, cork toy, 29. 

Thermometer, an attendance, 
196; laying out the board, 
196; the “mercury” column, 
196; bulb for, 199; hangers, 
199; a two-tube contest, 199. 

Thermometer board, 51. 

Thomas Bailey Aldrich book- 
rack, 116. 

Tool board, 18. 

Topsy-turvy blocks, 41. 

Toys, cork, 25; pendulum, 32; 
tumble, 41. 

Trees for sand table, 65. 

Tree standard, cross Christmas, 
263; box, 265. 

Trellis, 87. 

Trick ladder tumble toy, 41. 

Trough, book-, 105. 

Tumble toys, 41; Tumble Tom’s 
trick ladder, 41; topsy-turvy 
blocks, 41. 

V 

Vise, bench-, 15. 

W 

Wallboard, for scrapbook 
covers, 136; for class screen 


276 CHURCH AND SUNDAY SCHOOL HANDICRAFT 


panels, 157; for picture mats, 
159; for picture frame back¬ 
ing 1 , 161; for attendance dial, 
200; for bulletin boards, 221; 
for blackboards, 224, 228; 
for waste-basket, 241; for 
Santa Claus mantel, fireplace 
and hearth, 261. 

Wallboard and lath blackboard, 
224; frame, 224; slating, 
226; chalk-rail, 227; finish¬ 
ing, 227; hangers, 227. 

Wall-rack, 110. 

Waste-basket, 241; material, 
241; assembling, 242; finish¬ 
ing, 243. 

Water for sand table, 64. 

Well grab-booth, 248; material, 
249; well-curb, 249; roof, 
249; windlass, 249; old oaken 
bucket, 251; finishing, 251 


Whisk-broom holder, 47. 

Woodpecker house, 96; parts, 
98. 

Workbench, 12; bench-vise, 15; 
sliding-strip, 15; bench-stop, 
15; box bench, 15. 

Workshop, the church, 11; a 
solid, 12; bench-vise, 15; slid¬ 
ing-strip, 15; bench-stop, 15; 
box-bench, 15; tool board, 
18; hangers, 19; odd-job 
nail-box, 20. 

Wren house, Red Cross, 89; 
cutting the parts, 89; door¬ 
ways, 91; assembling, 92; 
finishing, 92; hangers, 94; 
another, 94; parts, 94; as¬ 
sembling, 94; hanger, 95; 
caps for handicraft bazaar 
booth, 257. 





























Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process. 
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide 
Treatment Date: June 2012 

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